https://community.element14.com/challenges-projects/element14-presents/project-videos/Project Videos provided by our video content partners about electronic builds, gaming and moreen-USTelligent Community 12https://community.element14.com/challenges-projects/element14-presents/project-videos/w/documents/3748/project-video-release-archiveThu, 02 Apr 2026 14:12:00 GMT93d5dcb4-84c2-446f-b2cb-99731719e767:59ab0abe-b32d-47f9-b00c-4b73b01f3bd8e14sbhargavProject Video Releases element14 presents | Meet the Hosts Episode 708: Reviving a Vintage LED Sign with Arduino and PS/2 Control Episode 707: Building a Circuit Sculpture with LED Filament Episode 706: ESP32 + RFID = Smart Access Control in a Simple DIY Build Episode 705: Building a Super Smooth Z-Scale Train Controller with Arduino Episode 704: Hacking an IKEA Desk into a Programmable Electric Workstation Episode 703: How to Set Up the Raspberry Pi 5: Complete Beginner Step-by-Step Guide Episode 702: Build Your Own USB Looper for Serial Debugging and File Transfer Episode 701: From Snooze to Launch: The Arduino-Powered LEGO Alarm Clock Inspired by Artemis 2 Episode 700: How Voice Recognition Works on Raspberry Pi (and Why It’s Easy to Break) Episode 699: GimmeGPIO: A Simple Way to Get GPIO on Laptops and Desktops Episode 698: Building a Practical Electronics Workbench for Makers and Engineers Episode 697: A Smart, Safe 3D Printer Cabinet Using Raspberry Pi and Node-RED Episode 696: How a Pulse Metal Detector Works, and How to Build One Episode 695: A DIY Test and Programming Rig Built for Small-Batch Electronics Production Episode 694: Earn Your Fitness Reward with a Smart Cookie Jar Using Strava and ESP32 Episode 693: Open-Source Multicolour 3D Printing Upgrade: Clem’s 3D Chameleon Remix Episode 692: Build Your own ESP32 Fitness Heart Rate Monitor / Tracker Episode 691: How Accurate Is Bluetooth Channel Sounding? A Deep Dive with the nRF54L15 Episode 690: Meet the PlatypusBot: Now Powered by Raspberry Pi & ROS Episode 689: How Clem Built a Handheld Sci-Fi Communicator That Really Works Episode 688: Building the Cylon Pumpkin: Combining a Larson Scanner and Vocoder for Halloween Episode 687: Turning a $10 Air Fryer into an Arduino powered Filament Dryer Episode 686: Creepy Motion-Activated Painting You Can Build Yourself Episode 685: When Your Body Becomes the Instrument: Clem Builds the “Dröne” Synth Episode 684: Building an Audio Reactive LED Matrix with a micro:bit and NeoPixels Episode 683: How to Make a Portable Emergency Radio with an Arduino Nano in a Mint TinT Episode 682: DIY RF Modulator + Raspberry Pi Pico = Gaming on a Sony Watchman FD-10A CRT Episode 681: Turn anything into an Arduino Module: Reusing Everyday Electronics Episode 680: From Kit to Custom Design: Building a Tube-Based FM Radio Episode 679: ESP32 Duolingo Owl Project: Never Miss a Lesson Again Episode 678: Open Source ATtiny3226 Arduino Calculator – Hardware, Case & Code Build Episode 677: Make Your Own Vocoder with Teensy 4.0 - Voice of a Cylon?! Episode 676: I Tried Building 16 ATtiny Robots with Vibration Motors – It Was a Disaster Episode 675:Avoid Conflict with this ESP32 Defcon Task Tracker Episode 674: Building an Open Source Blood Pressure & Heart Signal Monitor Episode 673: Building an ESP32 Powered Warhammer 40k Rhino with Dynamic LED Effects! Episode 672: Building an Autonomous LEGO Train with CircuitPython and LIDAR Episode 671: PlatypusBot - Scavenging for Robotics Parts Episode 670: Build your own Larson Scanner Episode 669: Creating an ESD (Or Lightning!) Detector! Episode 668: Designing an Arduino PID Controlled Micro Drone Episode 667: Emulating a Speech Synthesis Chip with an ESP32 Episode 666: How Far Can I2C Go? Episode 665: Raspberry Pi AI Tracking Eye of Sauron - AI AL Barad Dur Episode 664: Learn how to Make a Photo Booth with the ESP32 and Telegram Automation! Episode 663: Upcycling a Vintage Microphone into an Emergency Radio System Episode 662: Making a Stronger Affordable DIY Robot Arm with 3D Printing with Raspberry Pi Pico Episode 661: Clem makes his own LED Wristwatch Episode 660: LoFi Beats to Solder To Episode 659: DIY Single Board Computer with ESP32 and Raspberry Pi Pico Episode 658: A Smart Youtube Counter With An Audio Analyzer Episode 657: How to Control a LEGO Mindstorms kit with AI and Raspberry Pi 5 Episode 656: DIY Jig for your Laser Cutter with Custom Arduino Automation Episode 655: DIY Hot Plate for SMD Soldering Using Raspberry Pi Pico Episode 654: How Do BattleBots Work? In the Pit with HyperShock Episode 653: Edge-lit 7-Segment Display Clock Using Raspberry Pi Pico Episode 652: Smart Windows and Blinds with Arduino and Raspberry Pi Pico Episode 651: Design for Manufacturing - Project to Product by Modifying Off-the-Shelf Cases Episode 650: Using Nordic's nRF7002, My Dehumidifier Tells Me When It's Full! Episode 649: Giant Retro Gaming Magic Mirror with a Raspberry Pi 5! Episode 648: Home AI Image Generation Server with LattePanda and Stable Diffusion Episode 647: Building an Open-Source Tool for Cave Surveying Episode 646: Creating a Digital Roulette Table with an ESP32 DevKit Episode 645: Practical DIY Pi Pico Current Load Circuits Episode 644: Turning a Raspberry Pi Pico into a GPU! Episode 643: Making a Tribble that Detects Klingons Episode 642: Making a Time-lapse Camera with a Raspberry Pi 5 Episode 641: Moon Phase Display with Raspberry Pi Pico Episode 640: Tinkering vs Engineering: Can You Build a Laptop from Scratch? Episode 639: Off-Grid Remote Generator Starter? Episode 638: RP2040 PCB: Design, Turn-On, and Debug - How Hard Could It Be? Episode 637: Making Music with a Lego Guitar and Capacitive Touch Episode 636: Creating an IMU based 3D Mouse with an ESP32-S3 Episode 635: Vintage Electronics Exploration with a Bally Cypress Gardens Bingo Machine Episode 634: Craft a Festive LED Christmas Sweater Featuring the ATtiny416 Episode 633: Spying Under the Christmas Tree with an Arduino-powered Ornament Episode 632: Revamping Old School Pinball with an ESP32 Episode 631: All-Purpose Debugging: A Practical Universal Screen with LCD Displays Episode 630: Mega IIe: First Fully Functional Computer built around the Apple Mega-II Chip Episode 629: Backpack Splash: Mark's Water Gun Upgrade for Epic Outdoor Water Wars! Episode 628: Affordable DIY Robot Arm - A Deep Dive into 3D Printing and Servo Motors Episode 627: Creating sudostick - From Prototype to Product Episode 626: Catching you Up on Bonesnapper Ridge - Off-Grid Maker Shop Episode 625: Interactive Magic - Creating an Enchanted Cauldron Episode 624: Modding A Smoke Machine to Add Motion Detection Episode 623: How to Run Linux on an ESP32 Episode 622: Building Spooky Fun: Halloween Sound Pranks with nRF 5340 BLE Audio Episode 621: Color Sensor-Based Water Quality Tracker: DIY Environmental Monitoring Episode 620: Stey-by-Step Guide to Creating your own Speaking Animatronic Hat Episode 619: How to Build an Open Source Bluetooth Mechanical Keyboard Episode 618: Upgrading My Racing Sim with a Force-Sensitive Keyboard Episode 617: Simplify Network Monitoring: Building an ESP32-Powered Solution Episode 616: Mastering Oven Control: Precision Resin Curing with DIY Modifications - How Hard Can it Be? Episode 615: Building a Unique USB Card Reader: From Idea to Prototype Episode 614: Using PID (Proportional-Integral-Derivative) in Robotics - How Hard Could It Be? Episode 613: Building a Magic Wand Talking Sound Board Episode 612: Handheld BASIC computer in Badge Format with the Arduino Uno Episode 611: How to Run the Distance to the Moon with Strava Data and a Pico W Board Episode 610: How to Embroider with Circuits and Conductive Thread Episode 609: Updating a Fujitsu N860-2500-T111 Keyboard to Work with a PS2 Standard Episode 608: Making the Simplest DIY Wind Energy Generator - How Hard Could it Be? Episode 607: From Strava to Motion: Creating an Arduino-Powered Arcade Game with Running Data Episode 606: How to Use LoRaWAN to Launch Model Rockets Wirelessly Episode 605: Arduino and LEDs Make Solitaire Easier to Solve Episode 604: Charlieplexing Buttons and LEDs at the Same Time - How Hard Can It Be? Episode 603: Create Your Own Air Hockey Table with Arduino Scoring Episode 602: DIY AC Dimmer Circuit: Control Your Lights with a Raspberry Pi Pico Episode 601: How to Reverse Engineer Electronics: Building a Developer Board for a Coding Class Episode 600: Building My Dream Digital Clock: DIY 7 Segment Display with a Cute Robot Twist! Episode 599: How to Build a Spectrum Analyzer with Lego Bricks & Discrete Electronics Episode 598: How To Build a Portable, Solar-Charged Off-Grid Power Station Episode 597: How to Build a Robot that Celebrates Good Grades with Arduino Episode 596: How to Build Your Own Voice Assistant with MyCroft AI - How Hard Can It Be? Episode 595: Member Challenge Accepted - Universal LANC Controller for DSLR cameras Episode 594: Repairing a Neewer 660 Studio light - How Hard Can It Be? Episode 593: Playing 3D Famicom Games Wirelessly on the NES - How Hard Could It Be? Episode 592: Lamptopus: Spinning LED Desk Lamp Episode 591: Building A Bluetooth Speaker in 5 Minutes - How Hard Can It Be? Episode 590: Seven Kingdoms Open Source Bartop Arcade Episode 589: Upgrading the iMac G4 With a NUC Episode 588: Highlights from element14 presents 2022 Episode 587: Create Your Own Talking Stress Indicator Episode 586: DIY Open Source Bluetooth Headphones Episode 585: Enhancing a Magnifying Headband with Auto Sensing Light Episode 584: Going Beyond Periodic Wakes: Using WiFi to Revive a Sleeping Device Episode 583: Epic Neopixel Birthday Cake Episode 582: Smart Christmas Decoration with Raspberry Pi Pico and MQTT Episode 581: Bee-Saving Electronics Prototype Episode 580: DIY Low Cost Capacitance Meter Using a 555 Timer Episode 579: How to Make a Basketball Auto Score Keeper Using Colour Sensing Episode 578: Build your Own Bat Detector with Analog Parts Episode 577: The Game Guy Mini, Upgrading the Unportable Game Boy! Episode 576: Build your own Underwater Drone with 3D Printed Parts Episode 575: How to Make a Secured Parcel Pickup Box with Arduino Episode 574: Ghost Rider Halloween Costume Episode 573: Using a Pi Pico to Convert Keyboard Input to Morse Code Episode 572: How to Use an ESP32 & Camera to Know You've Got Mail! Episode 571: Using Dead Batteries to Test for Dead Batteries Episode 570: Making a WiFi Connected Audio Spectrum Analyzer with ESP32 Episode 569: Multi-Spectrum UV Resin Curing Station with Würth LEDs Episode 568: How to Make a Custom Soundboard with the STM32F4 using FreeCAD Episode 567: Synced NeoPixel Mickey Mouse Ears Episode 566: How to Automate Industrial Welding Positioners with Arduino Episode 565: Measuring Destructive Testing Force with a 20 Ton Hydraulic Press Episode 564: Build a VU Meter with LED Pixelated Nixie Tubes Episode 563: Creating Augmented Reality Circuits with Meta Quest 2 and Unity Episode 562: Pi Home Temperature Monitoring System Episode 561: WiFi to Parallel Port Ascii Art Dot-Matrix Printer Episode 560: Raspberry Pi Controlled Lego Train with Build HAT Episode 559: Create a Magic Makeup Mirror with Pose Detection Episode 558: 3D Object Rendering Using an FPGA Episode 557: Create your own Handheld Serial Monitor for Project Debugging Episode 556: Hacking a Hotel POS Tablet - How Hard Can it Be? Episode 555: Dance Central Pose Estimation Game with Tensorflow and Raspberry Pi Episode 554: Arduino Uno Mini Limited Edition LED Necklace Episode 553: Adding a Parallel Printer Port to an Android Phone Episode 552: Magical Potion Bottle Rack Episode 551: Can We Rebuild a 1930s Accounting Machine? Episode 550: DIY Electronic Controlled Motorized Wheelchair Episode 549: Using a Teletype Machine as a USB Printer with Arduino Episode 548: Electronic Fidget Cube, Building Your Ideas! Episode 547: Creating a “Mummy” Wake Word Detector with Raspberry Pi and Edge Impulse Episode 546: Mapping the Outputs of a 1960s Teletype Machine - How Hard Can it Be? Episode 545: Designing a Custom PCB for Microsoft Jacdac Episode 544: Reviving the 1984 IBM 5155 - How Hard Can It Be? Episode 543: Lego Spike Prime Weather Station with Raspberry Pi Episode 542: A Noise-Free DIY Switching Power Supply - How Hard Can It Be? Episode 541: Vintage Laptop Battery Replaced with USB Power - How Hard Can It Be? Episode 540: Object Detection for Smart Recycling Episode 539: Training a Machine to Recognize Objects - How Hard Can It Be? Episode 538: How to Build a Quadruped Robot - NO MATH! Episode 537: Build a Phonograph Preamplifier - How Hard Can It Be? Episode 536: Interactive Light-Up Window with Pose Detection using a Raspberry Pi and micro:bit Episode 535: Repair a Sega Game Gear - How Hard Can It Be? Episode 534: Open Source Inventory Warehousing System Episode 533: Jumbo DIY LED Episode 532: World’s First Single-Chip Apple II Boots! Episode 531: Game Guy - The Unportable Game Boy Episode 530: MQTT controlled LED Christmas Baubles with Raspberry Pi Pico Episode 529: UPDI Program for new ATTiny Episode 528: Let's Build an Electronic Fidget Cube! Episode 527: Interactive Light Up Window using a Raspberry Pi and micro:bit Episode 526: CNC Router Remote Control Episode 525: DIY Helmholtz Snow Globe Episode 524: Arduino IoT Cloud Weather Station Episode 523: Make your Own Auto-Sensing Solder Fume Extractor Episode 522: Siren Head Halloween Wearable Costume Episode 521: DIY Static Grass Applicator Episode 520: Adding Android Auto as Non-Permanent Add-On with Raspberry Pi Episode 519: Make Your Own Ye Olde Book Nook Diorama with Arduino Episode 518: Guitar Vacuum Tube Distortion Pedal Episode 517: Emulate an EPROM - How Hard Could it Be? Episode 516: Modding a Wireless Doorbell with Raspberry Pi and ESP8266 Episode 515: Upcycling a Lenovo PC into a Raspberry Pi WiFi Access Point Episode 514: Making a 3D Graphics Card for the Atari 800 XL Episode 513: Bike Speedometer with Arduino and GPS Episode 512: You Cannot Buy This Vacuum Tube Tester. You Build It! Episode 511: Raspberry Pi Powered Cheeseball Launcher Episode 510: Laser Cutter Command Station Episode 509: DIY Discrete Logic LED Countdown Timer Episode 508: Raspberry Pi FPV Rover Easy Robot Arm Upgrade Episode 507: Massive Raspberry Pi Episode 506: DIY Star Trek Tricorder from Build Inside the Box Episode 505: Super 8 Camera Digitizer Episode 504: DIY Sump Pump Alarm Episode 503: Meet Cheesoid - The Robot That Smells! Episode 502: Make Your Bike a Pokebike! Episode 501: Raspberry Pi NFC Button-Free Music Player Episode 500: Build Inside The Box Challenge! Episode 499: DIY Four Channel Arduino Servo Tester Episode 498: Raspberry Pi Smart Water Dispenser Episode 497: RFID Pocket Money Keeper Episode 496: Compute Module 4 Powered 3D Printer Board Episode 495: Magic GIF Ball Powered By Raspberry Pi Episode 494: Keyboard Shortcuts Keypad with Raspberry Pi Pico Episode 493: NeoPixel 7 Segment Display Clock Update Episode 492: Arduino vs 555 Timer - Tiny Slot Car Racers Episode 491: Arduino Single-Wheel Balancing Robot Episode 490: DIY Raspberry Pi Pico Fizz Buzz Multiplication Game Episode 489: Build An FPV Rover with Raspberry Pi Episode 488: DIY Raspberry Pi Cyberdeck Episode 487: DIY MagSafe Battery Charger Episode 486: Make The Ultimate Phone Charging Camping Flashlight Episode 485: How To Make A Custom PCB From Design To Assembly Episode 484: Raspberry Pi Bird Watching Camera Episode 483: DIY Miniature Multimeter Episode 482: Gigantic 3D Printed 7 Segment Display Clock Episode 481: DIY LOST Swan Station Split Flap Display Timer Episode 480: DIY Toothbrush Timer Episode 479: Raspberry Pi 2XL Robot Assistant Part 2 Episode 478: Upgrading A Christmas Train Episode 477: Metal Plate Your 3D Prints with a DIY Galvanizing Machine Episode 476: IoT Arduino NTP World Clock with SPI Display Episode 475: DIY Wall Mounted Arduino Barometer Episode 474: Continuum Robot Tentacle Prototype Episode 473: Mendel 3D Printer Upgrade and Maintenance Episode 472: DIY Hydration Reminder System Episode 471: DIY Dance Dance Revolution Mat Episode 470: Voice Activated Inspector Gadget Hat Episode 469: Nintendo Super Scope Modded For Modern Televisions Episode 468: Socially Distanced Halloween Candy Dispenser Episode 467: Repairing the World's First Laptop! (Epson HX-20) Episode 466: Arduino-powered Hexadecimal Color Code Clock Episode 465: Lego Raspberry Pi HQ Camera Episode 464: Particle Voice Recognition for Home Appliances Episode 463: Raspberry Pi Speech to Text LED Face Mask Episode 462: Joycon Controlled Electronic Rock'Em Sock'Em Robots Episode 461: Portal 2 Security Camera with Raspberry Pi 2 Episode 460: Trinamic Open Source Ventilator (TOSV) Teardown Episode 459: Raspberry Pi 4 VR Conference Call Assistant Episode 458: DIY Arduino Automated Metal Bending Machine Episode 457: Raspberry Pi 4 Animatronic Rosie the Robot from the Jetsons Episode 456: Unhackable Arduino Switch Matrix Episode 455: Arduino Unit Conversion Calculator Episode 454: Soldering Up the rc2014 Homebrew Z80 Computer Kit Episode 453: Build an Anti-Troll Bot Using TensorFlow and Arduino Episode 452: Raspberry Pi 4 Experimental Resin 3D Printer Updated! Episode 451: Build an Off Grid Wikipedia with Raspberry Pi Episode 450: Sega GameGear Rebuild with LEDs Episode 449: DIY Tamagotchi - Build a Virtual Pet Episode 448: DIY Raspberry Pi 4 Boxing Game Episode 447: DIY Stop Motion Rig with LattePanda Episode 446: Raspberry Pi 2XL Robot Assistant Part 1 Episode 445: Raspberry Pi 4 Animatronic BD-1 Companion Robot Episode 444: Raspberry Pi 4 DVR Episode 443: Arduino Uno RC Remote - Can It Be Done? Episode 442: Make Your Own Giant Servo Episode 441: Raspberry Pi 4 International Space Station Tracker Episode 440: DIY Arduino Helicopter Collective Joystick Control Episode 439 - Mechanical Arcade Game with Barebones Arduino Episode 438: Smartphone Controlled DIY Rover Using Websockets Episode 437: DIY Motorized Zoom for Your DSLR Episode 436: Automated Raspberry Pi Planet Tracking GOTO Telescope Episode 435: Raspberry Pi 4 Music Player w/Analog Controls Episode 434: Infineon Smart City Model Episode 433: Arduino Based Love Tester Episode 432: Super FX Sword using the BBC micro:bit Episode 431: Room-Sized Studio Light Speakers Combo Episode 430: Flaming Xylophone Rubens' Tube Episode 429: YouTuber "On Air" Light with Particle Mesh Network Episode 428: Raspberry Pi 4 CRT-based VR Headset Episode 427: DIY Retro Gaming Portable on a Budget! Episode 426: Retro TV Ads Holiday Ornament Episode 425: Make Your Own Raspberry Pi 4 Photobooth! Episode 424: DIY Escape Room Puzzle Episode 423: Programmable Arduino Synthesizer Watch Episode 422: Raspberry Pi E-Ink Task Organizer Episode 421: Raspberry Pi 4 Commodore SX-64 Inspired Portable Computer Episode 420: DIY Shapeoko CNC Pendant Episode 419: Altair 8800 Laptop Episode 418: Animatronic Terminator Skull with BeagleBone ® AI Episode 417: #Pipboy 2000 Mk II Episode 416: DIY #3DPrinted Label Spooler Episode 415: Iron Man Helmet Heads Up Display Episode 414: Raspberry Pi 4 Experimental Resin 3D Printer Episode 413: Animatronic Claptrap Case Mod Part 2 Episode 412: Get to Know Your ADC with a DIY Temperature Probe Episode 411: Animatronic Claptrap Computer Case - Part 1 Episode 410: MacPro G5 Cheese Grater with Raspberry Pi 4 Episode 409: Commodore SX-64 Restoration Episode 408: Hand Soldered LED Oscilloscope Episode 407: The Ultimate Raspberry Pi 4 Laptop Episode 406: Automated Robot Artist Episode 405: RC Ornithopter Concept Episode 404: Arduino Powered Close Encounters Midi Light Board Episode 403: Upcycled IoT Coffee Pot Ramen Maker Episode 402: PiPhone++ The Giant Raspberry Pi Flip Phone Episode 401: Matrix Voice Controlled Robot Episode 400: The Ultimate Raspberry Pi Stress Test Episode 399: Candle-Powered Robotl Episode 398: Let Me Out Hooman! Bluetooth Dog Doorbell Episode 397: Steam Powered Retropie Console Episode 396: Arduino Retro LED Matrix Handheld Episode 395: Raspberry Pi Stop Motion Machine Episode 394: Animatronic GLaDOS Head with Raspberry Pi Episode 393: GameBoy Walkman Episode 392: Multi-Line Telephone Intercom Episode 391: First Person View RC Car with PS2 Steering Wheel Episode 390: Retro Texting Smart Watch of the Future! Episode 389: PlayStation Classic Portable Prototype Episode 388: FPGA MIDI Music Synthesizer Episode 387: Rotocell - The Rotary Cell Phone of the Future! Episode 386: Xybernaut Wearable PC Episode 385: 20 PCB Design Pitfalls Episode 384: Retro Gaming Handheld Without a PCB Episode 383: Gameboy Wireless Link Cable (DMG1) Episode 382: Modding a Super 8 Camera into a Digital Episode 381: Reverse Music Box Episode 380: NES Zapper on RetroPie Episode 379: Macroscope Soldering Tool Episode 378: Invader ZIM Animatronic GIR Episode 377: Altair 8800 Replica Episode 376: 4D Gaming with the Matrix Creator Episode 375: Hacked Fetal Detector Music Synthesizer Episode 374: Raspberry Pi Donkey Kong Holiday Ornament Episode 373: Raspberry Pi Fallout Terminal PC Episode 372: Raspberry Pi Auto Etch A Sketch ™ Episode 371: FPGA "Game Genie" for Atari 2600 Episode 370: Raspberry Pi NOAA Satellite Receiver Episode 369: Recreating the Atari Portfolio Episode 368: Arduino Automatic Wire Cutter and Stripper Episode 367: Most Useless IoT Device Ever - Part 2 Episode 366: Infinity Icosahedron Episode 365: Twilight Zone Fortune Telling Machine Episode 364: Raspberry Pi Virtual Reality Arcade #VR Episode 363 - Add a Motor to your Bike with Arduino Episode 362: Most Worthless IoT Device Ever Pt. 1 Episode 361: R.O.B Rebuild and Upgrade Episode 360: Make Your Own Raspberry Pi Cell Phone Episode 359: Make Your Own CNC Pyrography Wood Burner Episode 358: The Shrimp of Terror! Episode 357: Raspberry Pi Asteroid Tracker Episode 356: Bank to the Future with Arduino & TI Episode 355: Raspberry Pi Pirate Radio Episode 354: Tiny Vacuum Forming Machine Episode 353: Program Your Own FPGA Video Game Episode 352: Pripyat - DIY Geiger Counter Episode 349: Raspberry Pi Selfie Rocket See All Previous Episodesepisode releasesfriday_release_archiveelement14 presentsproject videosepisodesfriday releasesepisode release archiveepisode archivefriday release archiveproject_videoshttps://community.element14.com/challenges-projects/element14-presents/project-videos/w/documents/72042/reviving-a-vintage-led-sign-with-arduino-and-ps-2-control----episode-708Thu, 02 Apr 2026 12:34:00 GMT93d5dcb4-84c2-446f-b2cb-99731719e767:a9de2751-f5b0-4e9b-bb90-9eb89ef24494e14sbhargavAn ageing LED sign picked up from an auction turns into a practical exercise in reverse engineering, electrical safety, and creative interfacing. After uncovering unsafe internal wiring, Clem rebuilds the power system, then works around the original control limitations by using an Arduino Uno R4 WiFi to emulate a PS/2 keyboard, unlocking a simple but effective way to update messages. Along the way, he explores the quirks of legacy hardware, from timing-sensitive inputs to unreliable networking attempts, ultimately giving the display a functional second life. Watch the Build https://youtu.be/Cx3UranVtJQ Reviving a Vintage LED Sign - With a Few Lessons Along the Way Clem has a habit of picking up hardware that most people would walk past. So when an ageing LED sign surfaced at an event company auction, it didn’t take much convincing before it ended up on his bench. At first glance, it’s exactly what you’d expect from a previous generation of display tech: rows of discrete red LEDs arranged into a scrolling matrix. No modular panels, no driver ICs doing the heavy lifting, just a dense grid of components and straightforward multiplexing. Against better judgement, Clem powers it up before opening it. It works. Even more interestingly, it’s still displaying its last programmed message, preserved from its previous life. A small detail, but one that immediately confirms the hardware is at least functional, and worth digging into further. A Shocking Discovery That initial optimism fades quickly once the enclosure comes off. Inside, this isn’t a neatly engineered commercial product. It’s been modified, heavily. The most concerning detail is the power input: mains AC wires are soldered directly onto an AC/DC converter module, with no strain relief, no insulation, and no grounding. Clem doesn’t overstate it, he calls out just how precarious this setup is, noting that “this is the sort of thing that only works until it really doesn’t” . The entire system depends on external protection breakers, RCDs, rather than anything inside the unit itself. It’s a hazard. Before anything else, that has to be addressed. Making It Safe (First, Always) There’s no attempt to salvage the original power arrangement. The internal supply is removed entirely and replaced with a simple, external 5 V input via a barrel jack. The sign itself has modest power requirements, so a regulated supply,like a Raspberry Pi adapter, is more than sufficient. It’s not an interesting modification, but it’s the most critical one. As Clem puts it, “there’s no point reverse engineering something you can’t safely touch.” Only once the risk is eliminated does the project move forward. Inside the Sign With the electrical hazards out of the way, attention turns to the electronics. The controller board is built around an 8051-family microcontroller, unsurprising for hardware of this era. There’s no clear branding or standardisation; everything about the board suggests it’s been adapted rather than designed as a standalone product. The LED matrix reinforces that impression. Tracks have been cut and rerouted, and sections appear to have been physically reshaped to fit the enclosure. Clem notes that “it looks like the display and the case weren’t originally meant for each other.” This isn’t just old hardware, it’s repurposed hardware that’s already had one life before this. UART… or Not? The next step is straightforward in theory: find a way to change the message. A connector on the board looks promising—something resembling a UART or RS-232 interface. Clem brings in an Arduino Uno R4 WiFi, specifically chosen because it operates at 5 V logic levels, avoiding the need for level shifting. He wires directly into the pins and starts probing. Nothing. No valid serial output. No obvious baud rate. No response when transmitting. Clem remarks that “it behaves like it should be serial, but it just… isn’t.” The working theory shifts: this connector may not be for programming at all. Instead, it likely served as a link between multiple signs—daisy-chaining displays rather than configuring them. It’s a dead end. The breakthrough comes from something far less technical. Among the accessories that came with the sign is a sheet of command instructions, and a PS/2 keyboard. Plugging it in works immediately. The sign accepts specific key sequences and stores messages internally. No protocol decoding, no reverse engineering required, just a human interface that had been there all along. Clem highlights the simplicity of it: “sometimes the interface is exactly what it looks like, it’s just a keyboard.” That discovery re-frames the problem entirely. Instead of trying to talk to the sign electrically, the goal becomes emulating a keyboard. Teaching an Arduino to Type (Very Slowly) Using the Arduino Uno R4 and a PS/2 device library, Clem sets out to replicate keystrokes programmatically. This turns out to be less straightforward than expected. Timing is critical. The sign is extremely sensitive to how quickly input arrives. If characters are sent too fast, they’re dropped or misinterpreted. Clem notes that “it only really behaves if you type like a person—and not a particularly fast one.” The solution is deliberately slow input, with significant delays between each keypress. The implementation in code reflects this. A simplified version of the approach: void sendMessage(const char* msg) { sendControlSequenceStart(); for (int i = 0; msg[i] != '\0'; i++) { ps2Keyboard.write(msg[i]); delay(150); // deliberately slow to match human typing } sendControlSequenceEnd(); } The full implementation in Clem’s code expands on this with control characters, message framing, and serial input handling, allowing text to be sent over USB and translated into PS/2 keystrokes. Clem points out that AI-assisted coding helped bridge some of the gaps here, particularly in structuring the PS/2 communication: “it got me 80% of the way there, and then I had to make it actually work.” There is one limitation: after updating the message, the sign requires a power cycle before it begins scrolling the new text. It’s not ideal, but it’s consistent, and workable. Putting It on the Network With reliable message input achieved, Clem pushes further. The Uno R4’s built-in Wi-Fi opens the door to remote control. A lightweight web server is implemented, exposing a simple interface where messages can be submitted via HTTP requests. On paper, it’s a clean solution. In practice, it’s inconsistent. Clem observes that “sometimes it works perfectly, and sometimes it just drops off the network entirely.” The metal enclosure likely contributes to signal attenuation, but even with the board exposed, reliability isn’t guaranteed. This leaves the networking aspect in an unfinished state, a proof of concept rather than a dependable feature. Despite the false starts and limitations, the outcome is clear. The sign is now safe to use, fully programmable, and capable of being driven by modern hardware. It retains its original character, hundreds of red LEDs scrolling text in a way that feels distinctly of its era, but with a new interface layered on top. Clem sums it up simply: “it’s not perfect, but it works, and that’s kind of the point.” What started as a questionable auction find is now a functioning piece of workshop hardware, ready for a second life, this time without the risk of electric shock, and with just enough modern control to make it genuinely useful. Supporting Files and Links - Github Repository ( Code Snapshot ) Bill of Materials Product Name Manufacturer Quantity Buy Kit Ardunio uno R4 wifi ARDUINO 1 Buy Now Rpi power supply Raspberry pi 1 Buy Now Product Name old led signreverse engineering electronics8051 microcontrollere14presents_mayermakesmultiplexed LED displayDIY LED displayretro electronics restorationWiFi microcontroller projectarduino uno r4 wifiPS/2 keyboard emulationembedded systems projectLED matrix controlserial communication troubleshootinghardware hackingArduino PS2 libraryelectronics repair projectvintage LED signfriday_releasehttps://community.element14.com/challenges-projects/element14-presents/project-videos/m/managed-videos/151139Wed, 01 Apr 2026 22:51:00 GMT93d5dcb4-84c2-446f-b2cb-99731719e767:bcfb1756-8b6b-4f95-83de-1bd091232566cstantonWe're sending astronauts around the Moon for the first time in 50 years. Come watch with us. NASA's Artemis II mission is scheduled to lift off from Kennedy Space Center on April 1. The two-hour launch window starts at 6:24 p.m. EDT (2224 UTC). Fo...https://community.element14.com/challenges-projects/element14-presents/project-videos/w/documents/72031/from-snooze-to-launch-the-arduino-powered-lego-alarm-clock-inspired-by-artemis-2----episode-701Wed, 01 Apr 2026 22:50:00 GMT93d5dcb4-84c2-446f-b2cb-99731719e767:8c6e2dc4-14f4-4f87-b134-63786c04c12bcstantonWhat if your alarm clock launched a rocket instead of playing a gentle tone? In this project, Milos turns the LEGO NASA Artemis SLS into a motorised, Arduino-powered alarm clock that raises the rocket and blasts a megaphone when it’s time to wake up. The build combines a NEMA 17 stepper motor, relays to hack a megaphone, an LED matrix display, Wi-Fi control, and a custom web interface so you can configure everything from your browser. Watch the Lift-Off! https://youtu.be/Qg7JDSrsakI Building the World’s Loudest LEGO Alarm Clock When Milos set out to build a new alarm clock, he did not start with typical design constraints like size, comfort, or subtlety. Instead, he started with a simple premise: rockets are among the loudest human-made machines ever created. That idea quickly evolved into a LEGO NASA Artemis rocket that would not just look the part, but behave like a launch sequence every morning. The result is a project that blends mechanical LEGO engineering, Arduino automation, reverse-engineered consumer electronics, and a web-based control interface. From Rocket Inspiration to Alarm Clock Concept The project began with the LEGO NASA Artemis Space Launch System set. While assembling it, Milos discovered a mechanical detail that set the tone for the entire build: a tiny internal gear designed to rattle during operation to mimic the sound of launch vibration. That detail pushed the concept from a simple motorised display to a full alarm clock experience. In the transcript, Milos reflects on how the idea escalated beyond a simple novelty: “I wanted something that would actually force me to wake up… something you cannot ignore.” The design goals quickly became clear: Motorise the LEGO launch mechanism Add a display and controls Create an alarm that is impossible to sleep through The third requirement became the defining challenge of the project. Solving the Sound Problem: The Megaphone Hack Originally, the plan was to use a megaphone capable of playing MP3 files via USB. The delivered device did not match expectations. Instead of USB playback, it only supported record and playback through a microphone. What initially looked like a setback became one of the project’s most interesting design decisions. The limitation actually made the system more flexible and tactile. Any sound could be recorded directly into the megaphone and replayed as the alarm. This gave the clock a unique personality and avoided the complexity of integrating audio playback electronics. But controlling the megaphone electronically introduced a major obstacle: it was designed for manual button presses. Milos explains the workaround clearly: “The megaphone is designed to be used by pressing the buttons… so I soldered wires in parallel with the buttons and used relays to simulate the presses.” This approach essentially turned the megaphone into a remotely controlled device. The Arduino does not generate audio; it triggers the megaphone’s existing circuitry in the correct sequence. It is a clean example of hardware hacking that avoids reinventing functionality already present in consumer electronics. Electronics Architecture and Control Strategy At the center of the build sits an Arduino Uno R4 WiFi. The choice of board was deliberate: the project requires multiple GPIO pins, relay control, motor control, Wi-Fi connectivity, and a web interface. From the code, the relay pins controlling the megaphone buttons are defined explicitly: #define RECORD 3 #define PLAY 4 #define TRIGGER 5 #define STOP 6 These outputs allow the Arduino to emulate the physical button presses required to operate the megaphone. The firmware also defines a complete stepper motor configuration: #define STEP_PIN 9 #define DIR_PIN 8 #define ENABLE_PIN 7 #define LIMIT_SWITCH_MIN 11 #define LIMIT_SWITCH_MAX 12 The presence of limit switches is a key safety and reliability feature. The mechanism cannot overrun its physical bounds. This is critical for a device that operates unattended every morning. Milos notes in the transcript how important reliability was: “This has to work every day without me touching it, otherwise it defeats the purpose of an alarm clock.” Mechanical Integration: Driving LEGO from Below One of the most thoughtful aspects of the build is how the motor integrates with the LEGO model. Rather than mounting the stepper motor visibly on the side, Milos redesigned the drive path so the motor sits beneath the rocket base. He created a 3D-printed coupler that connects a NEMA 17 stepper motor to the LEGO gear train. This preserves the visual integrity of the LEGO set while still using the original gearing. It also highlights a recurring theme in the project: keep the LEGO aesthetic intact while embedding real engineering underneath. He explains this design decision in the transcript: “I didn’t want the motor visible anywhere… everything had to stay hidden under the model.” The enclosure itself was printed in black PLA and dimension-ed using LEGO’s standardised spacing, making the mechanical alignment straightforward. Software Design and Web Interface The software side of the project is far more sophisticated than a typical Arduino alarm clock. The firmware includes Wi-Fi connectivity and a full web interface. Key features of the firmware include: Static IP configuration for easy access Web-based alarm scheduling Time synchronisation via internet Relay testing and calibration tools Stepper motor min/max configuration LED matrix brightness control From the code: #define NTP_SERVER "pool.ntp.org" #define GMT_OFFSET_SEC 0 #define DAYLIGHT_OFFSET_SEC 3600 This enables automatic time updates using NTP, eliminating the need to manually set the clock. The web interface is designed to complement physical controls rather than replace them. Physical buttons remain available for emergency silence when the megaphone begins blasting in the morning. Sequencing the Wake-Up Routine The firmware reveals how the alarm sequence is orchestrated. Timing constants define the startup behaviour: #define RECORD_DELAY 2000 #define PLAY_DELAY 2000 #define MOTOR_RUN_TIME 15000 This suggests a carefully choreographed sequence: Trigger megaphone playback via relay sequence Run the stepper motor to animate the rocket mechanism Maintain motion for a fixed duration Allow manual stop if needed The combination of mechanical motion and amplified audio turns the wake-up routine into a full launch event. Challenges and Lessons Learned As the real Artemis mission prepares for launch, Milos discovered that the biggest challenge in building his own morning “launch system” wasn’t the mechanics or the code, it was the wiring. Packing everything neatly into the enclosure turned into the most time-consuming part of the build. As he admits, “The wiring was definitely the most tedious part of the whole project.” That challenge reflects the wider balance he was aiming for: something bold and loud enough to wake you instantly, but reliable enough to run every single day. The decision to control the megaphone using relays captures that mindset perfectly. Instead of redesigning the megaphone electronics, Milos focused on a practical solution that works consistently and keeps the build approachable for others to recreate. This isn’t a finished idea either. Milos already sees the project as something to keep evolving. “There are definitely more things I want to add later,” he says, with plans to keep experimenting with the web interface, motion behaviour, sounds, and general refinements to the enclosure and wiring. Even now, the project works exactly as intended: a dramatic, over-the-top alarm clock inspired by a real rocket launch. With the Artemis mission on the horizon, it feels fitting that this LEGO SLS now delivers its own daily countdown and liftoff on the desk. Supporting Links and Downloads - Episode 701 Resources www.youtube.com/watch Bill of Materials Product Name Manufacturer Quantity Buy Kit Arduino Uno R4 WiFi Arduino 1 Buy Now 4 Channel Relay Module SEEED Studio 1 Buy Now NEMA 17 Stepper Motor - FIT0278 DFROBOT 1 Buy Now Black PLA - MP010755 MULTICOMP PRO 1 Buy Now Additional Parts Product Name Manufacturer Quantity SLS LEGO Set - https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/nasa-artemis-space-launch-system-rocket-42221 Battery Powererd Megaphone Quad LED Matrix Module - MAX7219 A4988 Stepper Motor Driver A4988 Adapter Board Push buttons Wires Screws M3 and M4arduino alarm clock tutorialarduino nema 17 stepper tutorialarduino web server project examplelego motorised rocket arduinoarduino stepper motor project tutorialdiy loud alarm clock projectarduino uno r4 wifi projectsarduino relay control tutorialdiy arudino clock with wifiarduin projects for beginners and makerslego arduino integration projectled matrix clock arduino tutorialhot to control megaphone with arduinolego alarm clock projectdiy smart alarm clock arduinofriday_releasehttps://community.element14.com/challenges-projects/element14-presents/project-videos/w/documents/72038/building-a-circuit-sculpture-with-led-filament----episode-707Thu, 26 Mar 2026 12:31:00 GMT93d5dcb4-84c2-446f-b2cb-99731719e767:c6b89b18-90ec-417d-a582-d00cc14ecf1de14sbhargavNatasha builds a free standing LED snowflake using LED filament, exploring how to shape, wire, and solder a layered circuit sculpture from scratch. From planning segmented control to handling fragile components, this project walks through the full process and what she learned along the way. Watch the Build https://youtu.be/_kSGA9TISFA Inspiration and a Cold Start The project started with a small LED snowflake produced out of LED filament (or LED noodles) that Natasha came across that she wanted to make at a much larger scale. The other goal, inspired by the Saks Fifth Avenue holiday light show in New York, was to have the snowflake animate in segments rather than just illuminate as a single unit. That annual show has been running since 2004, projecting choreographed light sequences across the store's Midtown Manhattan facade using over 70,000 LEDs across 450 lighting cues. That kind of layered, breathing animation is what Natasha was working toward with her sculpture. She also wanted this to be the project where she figured out how to do circuit sculpture properly: connecting components with bare wire, no PCB, no enclosure, everything visible. The Material: LED Filament "Sticks" LED filament, sometimes called LED noodles by the maker community, look like glowing neon but are actually a dense row of micro LEDs bonded to a thin metal backing and coated in silicone. The diodes are packed so tightly together that they read as a continuous line of light rather than individual points. Most versions are flexible. The pack Natasha ordered was not, and that turned out to be the key property that made the design work. "Most of these filaments are flexible but when I ordered the pack, that wasn't. That's when I realized that they could provide the structure to make my circuit sculpture design possible." Rigid filaments can hold a position without support, which meant Natasha could use them as structural elements within the sculpture itself. The trade-off is that they are extremely brittle. "The only downside to the rigid LED sticks is that they're extremely fragile. They don't bend, but they sure do break. The smallest amount of pressure just snaps them in half." Electrically, the diodes within each stick are wired in parallel and run at 3V. Unresisted they can draw up to 200mA, so current limiting with a resistor is standard, with around 50mA being a sensible target for continuous use. The sticks Natasha used were 40mm in length. The positive terminal is conventionally identified by a small hole in the wire lead, though as she found out later, this is not consistent across all batches and manufacturers. Planning the Circuit in Illustrator The design groups the LED sticks into rings, with each ring having its own positive and negative rail so that each section can be controlled independently. To reduce the total amount of wire running through the sculpture, Natasha shared a common ground between adjacent pairs of rings. "Instead of always having the negative side on the inside and the positive side on the outside, some of the pieces grouped two sections together so I had a ring of positive, a ring of negative with both groups attached, and a ring of positive again for the second group." With the number of layers and connections involved, she moved the planning into Adobe Illustrator. She measured the 40mm LED sticks precisely (specifically the illuminated length rather than the full component length), placed a photo of her test layout on the canvas as a reference, and drew out the wire trace for each layer. Those diagrams then became the physical templates she printed and used to shape the copper wire against. "This concept is super simple but when thinking in layers of LEDs this was a lot to think about. So to make sense of the layers of wire and wire traces I turned to Adobe Illustrator." With all of the layers mapped out and printed, the plan was solid. She describes her mental state at this point as her brain feeling like jelly, so she committed to trusting the process and started building. Shaping the Wire and Soldering the LEDs Natasha made a basic jig from foam board and map pins to hold the wire in position while she shaped it against her printed templates. The copper wire had enough spring to resist staying in place, so she ended up using a combination of the pins and tape to keep things set. Each LED stick was placed onto the copper wire at the correct angle and tacked with a small amount of solder to hold it before moving on. Polarity has to be tracked throughout, which becomes harder as the build progresses. "I knew that the side with the hole in it was positive but once you put solder on it you can't see the hole anymore, so that made it difficult to visually check that I had done it correctly." Once solder covers the joint, the identifying hole is gone. The only way to verify polarity at that point is to test it electrically. Worth building that step into your process before starting rather than discovering it mid-build. The other consistent problem was the fragility of the filaments once multiple LEDs were attached to the same layer. The copper wire traces are flexible, and that flexibility gets transferred to the LED sticks at their solder joints. "Since the wire was flexible, the weakest link is the LED itself, so any little adjustment and the LED could pop. And it was really hard to not want to adjust the wire because if it bent a little bit you just think, oh I'll fix that real quick, and boom you snapped an LED." Assembly: Layers, Magnets, and the Ground Bus After the individual layers were done, Natasha paused for several days before attempting to assemble them. This is not presented as a failing; it is a good call. "I was honestly terrified to put this together because each layer was so fragile, and it felt like the more pieces that I would connect together, the more risk I had of bending a wire and breaking the LEDs attached to it." She used cube magnets as impromptu spacers to hold the layers at a consistent distance from each other while she worked on the ground connections. The ground wires were soldered in pairs first, then the pairs were joined into a single continuous ground bus that runs through the whole sculpture. Building it up in stages like this keeps each individual operation manageable. For the base, she had a wooden block in her studio that she wanted to use. She connected all of the circuit wires to a piece of perfboard and screwed that to the top of the block. Perfboard here is working as an anchor and breakout panel for all of the individual positive leads, not as a conventional PCB. The unexpected outcome was that the copper wire structure was rigid enough to hold the entire sculpture upright on its own. In total, four or five LED sticks broke during the whole build process. By her own estimate, that was fewer than she expected. The Polarity Problem When Natasha removed the first broken stick to replace it, she discovered that the second batch of LED filaments she had bought had the opposite polarity convention. The hole that marks the positive terminal on one manufacturer's product was on the negative terminal in this batch. "I had just done this very tedious surgery to my circuit and it was perfectly soldered in place again, and it didn't work." This is a known inconsistency with LED filament products. The hole-marks-positive convention is common but not universal, and it can vary between manufacturers and between production runs from the same supplier. The fix is simple: test any new batch for polarity before installing anything. A quick check with a known voltage and a current-limiting resistor takes seconds and avoids having to redo a completed joint. Testing the Fade with Velostat Before writing any code, Natasha wanted to see how the fading between groups would look in practice. She made a basic test rig using strips of conductive copper tape on a piece of foam to give her accessible contact points for each positive lead, then used a piece of Velostat as a hand-operated variable resistor. Velostat is a carbon-impregnated polyolefin film with piezoresistive properties: its resistance drops as you apply pressure to it. A small piece sandwiched between two conductive surfaces shifts from several kilohms at rest down to around one kilohm under firm pressure. By pressing harder or lighter on the Velostat against the contact points, she was able to vary the brightness of each LED group continuously, and move between groups by shifting where she applied pressure. "I'm pressing and you can see I'm lightening up, I'm pressing down harder, and then I can move over to press a different wire. So there's different connection levels, and I think that's gonna look so cool." As a quick way to validate the animation concept before committing to any software, it works well. No microcontroller, no code, just a useful material property doing the job of a PWM signal by hand. What She Would Do Differently and What Comes Next Natasha wraps up with three specific things she would change if she were starting again. Wire gauge for the structural runs. The fine copper wire she used for the traces within the snowflake is the right choice aesthetically because it visually disappears and lets the LED filaments stand out. But using the same wire gauge for the longer vertical runs down to the base means the sculpture moves around more than she would like. Her fix would be to use heavier wire only for those support runs, keeping the finer wire for the circuit traces themselves. Solder quality. She was careful about her solder joints early in the build but relaxed her standards as the volume of joints mounted up. For a first build doing this many LEDs she decided that was an acceptable trade-off, but for future projects she would be more precise, particularly if the solder joints are as visible as they are in circuit sculpture. LED orientation. This one is subtle but worth knowing. The LED filament sticks have a front face. The silicone coating wraps the whole component, but the LEDs inside emit noticeably more light in one direction than the other. During initial installation Natasha was careful to orient each stick face-forward. During repairs, working on a nearly-complete fragile sculpture, she was less consistent. "There are a few LEDs that are just a hair dimmer when looking at the sculpture because they're facing backwards." Polarity and face orientation are both worth tracking every time a stick is installed or replaced. The hole tells you which way the current flows. The face tells you which way the light goes. The sculpture has all of its individual positive leads accessible through the perfboard base, ready to be driven by PWM-capable outputs from a microcontroller. The ground bus is unified. The mechanical build is done. The question Natasha is working through is what to make it do. Options she is considering include a VU meter that responds to audio amplitude, a data visualiser, a weather-reactive mode that triggers when it actually snows, or a purely musical version that breathes and twinkles in sync with a wintery soundscape. The Velostat test already showed the fade behaviour looks exactly as intended, so the foundation is solid. "What if it went off when it actually snowed? Or if I just make it something that's musically beautiful. So if I put on some wintery soundscape, does it twinkle and breathe with the music?" The next time Natasha approaches this project on element14 presents, it will cover the microcontroller side and how the animation comes together. You can contribute by suggesting in the comments below on what direction Natasha can take the project. Planned Bill of Materials Product Name Manufacturer Quantity Buy Kit Micro:bit SBC, BBC MICRO:BIT SINGLE, V2.21, nRF52833 micro:bit 1 Buy Now Additional Parts Product Name Manufacturer Quantity LED Filaments Pretyzoom 1 20 Guage Copper Wire 1 Small LED Snowflake anso 1 Perf Board Radio Shack RIP :( 1led design buildled snowflakecircuit sculpturearduino led controlled noodlesinteractive lightingmicro:bit led controlled filament projectdiy led projectLED filamentMaker Electronicselectronic artled animation projectsoldering ledselectronics sculpturefriday_releasecopper wire circuithttps://community.element14.com/challenges-projects/element14-presents/project-videos/w/documents/5233/diy-raspberry-pi-cyberdeck----episode-488Mon, 23 Mar 2026 15:47:00 GMT93d5dcb4-84c2-446f-b2cb-99731719e767:ded4aa9d-3983-497a-bda2-8989f11c5dd1cstantonwww.youtube.com/watch In the distant year of 2021, the days of the old-fashioned laptop are long gone and a new class of portable computer reigns supreme: the cyberdeck. When life imitates cyber art, you get a unique, electronic device and the latest way to get that geek internet cred. Cyberdecks are portable portals to cyberspace and today DJ will show you how he built his own custom rig using the latest in DIY electronics in personal manufacturing. Bill of Material: Product Name Manufacturer Quantity Buy Kit Raspberry Pi 4 Raspberry Pi 1 Buy Now Raspberry Pi Display Raspberry Pi 1 Buy Now PLA Filament VERBATIM 1 Buy Now microSD Card Transcend 1 Buy Now Raspberry Pi Camera Raspberry Pi 1 Buy Now 10W 4Ohm Speaker Visaton 1 Buy Now 10K Audio Taper Potentiometer Bourns 1 Buy Now 180R Resistor 1/8W MULTICOMP PRO 5 Buy Now Rocker Switch Carling Technologies 1 Buy Now Latching Pushbutton Switch SCHWEITZER 5 Buy Now Additional Parts: Product Name 26650 Cell USB female panel jack (10x) M3x10 screw 2'x2' 1/16" aluminum sheet Sparkfun mono amplifier 3W Sparkfun LiPoly Charger (40x) 6-32 x 3/8" Permaproto half board C Cell Battery Contacts Supporting Links and Downloads: - Episode 488 Resources DIY Raspberry Pi Cyberdeck element14 Presents | About DJ | Project Videosschweitzercasemodcyberdeckpotentiometercarling technologiesportableSingle Board Computercyberspacesbcmatrixneuromancerretroraspberry pielement14 presentse14p_DJverbatimdisplaymulticompdjghost in the shelldj harrigantranscendcyberpunkdj harringtonfriday_releaseretrofuturismakirae14presents_djharrigan