<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="https://community.element14.com/cfs-file/__key/system/syndication/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>FRM-KL25z, installing headers</title><link>/members-area/personalblogs/b/nico-tewinkel-s-blog/posts/frm-kl25z-installing-headers</link><description>Unfortunately, the Freescale Freedom FRDM-KL25z does not come with headers installed, or even included.This set me back a few weeks having to wait for some headers to arrive in the mail - although I admit that as a good electronics nerd I should have</description><dc:language>en-US</dc:language><generator>Telligent Community 12</generator><item><title>RE: FRM-KL25z, installing headers</title><link>https://community.element14.com/members-area/personalblogs/b/nico-tewinkel-s-blog/posts/frm-kl25z-installing-headers</link><pubDate>Sun, 12 May 2013 20:13:01 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">93d5dcb4-84c2-446f-b2cb-99731719e767:d8fa8d1a-31bd-4859-b4e6-05abcb7ca04a</guid><dc:creator>shabaz</dc:creator><slash:comments>2</slash:comments><description>&lt;p&gt;Hi Nico,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think it may rather be the type of solder. Some traditional solders have rosin flux, which works very well but does leave a mess (which can be cleaned with isopropanol - and a firm brush as you say, but you may wish to have an antistatic brush - I use &lt;a class="jive-link-external-small" href="http://uk.farnell.com/vermason/k3003/brush-conductive-hard/dp/265070" target="_blank"&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, it has lasted years so it&amp;#39;s worth the cost. (After the IPA, I believe deionized water can be used, but currently I&amp;#39;m using some MG chemicals mix of IPA and deionized water because that&amp;#39;s all I had, and it gets the board spotless).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;You still need a flux-cored solder, but maybe a non-rosin based one; it will likely leave a clean joint (but will require a clean board and clean component wires).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may need a recommendation based on the country you&amp;#39;re in. I use a UK-based manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since most components are clean and untarnished, a non-rosin solder is good enough (bare copper PCBs need some cleaning however).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is just personal findings based on prototyping stuff - I&amp;#39;m no expert on commercial production methods.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;img src="https://community.element14.com/aggbug?PostID=15811&amp;AppID=296&amp;AppType=Weblog&amp;ContentType=0" width="1" height="1"&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>