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Blog An Arduino/Raspberry Pi Based Wireless Light Harness
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  • Author Author: screamingtiger
  • Date Created: 11 Jun 2015 1:17 PM Date Created
  • Views 7184 views
  • Likes 3 likes
  • Comments 76 comments
  • wirless_trailer
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An Arduino/Raspberry Pi Based Wireless Light Harness

screamingtiger
screamingtiger
11 Jun 2015

I am going do this small side project as a way to take a break from my main project.  For a basic introduction please see my original blog post at http://www.element14.com/community/people/screamingtiger/blog/2015/04/20/a-small-project-idea--wireless-trailer-lighting-control

 

If anyone has concerns about my project, please post them in that thread.  I have changed the design slightly after doing  some research and testing.  I am also going to have a control panel in the car with me so I can monitor things as well as manually test the lights.

 

The car has running lights, brake lights, and turn signals all on separate channels.  However the trailer lights only have 2 channels as the running lights also function as turn signals. My initial analysis was incorrect that the running lights also function as brake lights.

 

First a tentative parts list and then I will explain.

2X Arduino mini pros 16mhz boot loader

1X Raspberry Pi model B

1X 2.5" TFT touchscreen LCD

1X 4 channel mechanical relay

6X AMS1117 SO-223 5V regulators

3X NRF24L01+ wireless transceivers

1X 1.5 watt solar charger

3X enclosures

1X 20,000mAh (20Ah) 12V lead acid battery

1X hobbyking 5V/5A regulator

1X 1000 mAh 2s LIPO

 

Explanation of parts :

There are 3 units involved. We have the unit that reads the car's lights, the unit that controls the trailer lights, and the unit that acts as a control panel.  All 3 are connected via the wireless adapters.

 

2X Arduino mini pros 16mhz boot loader

These will be used for the units that read the lights and control the trailer lights.  I have some of these on hand is why I went with them and the small footprint will allow me to tuck it away nicely.

 

1X Raspberry Pi model B and 1X 2.5" TFT touchscreen LCD

This will function as the main control panel with a simple interface.  The Pi attaches easily to the LCD which is why I chose this route.  Its way overkill but I feel it will be useful for other projects that also need a remote or control panel.  The control panel will allow monitoring as well as manual control of the lights for testing.

 

1X 4 channel mechanical relay

The stock lights on my trailer pull 2A for the brakes lights per side, and 500 mA per side for the running lights.  Originally I was going to use a mosfet but I see no reason with this high of current.  The brake lights will be turned on at the same time so the relay will see 4A.  However the running lights will be on separate channels as they also function as blinkers.  The 4th channel I may use to turn on internal lights in the trailer remotely.

 

6X AMS1117 SO-223 5V regulators

These small regulators will be used to power the Arduinos off of the main 12V sources which come from the vehicle as well as the 12V battery in the trailer.  They are also used to read the  vehicle lights.  My plan is to splice into the lines of each light the same way I did before when installing an off the shelf light controller.  The lights will be routed to the 5v regulators which then step down the voltages to 5V for reading via the GPIO pins on the Arduino.  I will need 4 regulators to read the lights.  1 for the brake lights, 1 for the running lights, and 1 each for each turn signal.

 

3X NRF24L01+ wireless transceivers

These 2.4ghz transceivers are similar to an I2C connection and a serial connection combined.  Each one has an ID and you can broadcast information. I will have a small protocol in place for error correction as well as some minor tamper proofing.  I don't want a rogue 2.4ghz signal to be able to mess with my lights.  I will be using a command set that requires a sequence of bytes in order to validate commands.

 

1X 1.5 watt solar charger

These can be had from Harbor Freight and low cost.  I decided that the trailer might as well be "green" and charge its own battery.  Besides its just another thing for me to forget to do.

 

The rest of the items are self explanatory and used to house the items and power the Pi.

 

I may choose to get some LED based trailer lights, but I am going to stick with the stock trailer lights for now until I have a working project.

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Top Comments

  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 10 years ago in reply to screamingtiger +3
    Joey Did you remove the jumper .. JD-VCC to VCC ? You apply the 12v to JD-VCC NOT THE VCC PIN The 5v on the VCC pin is to power the Optocouplers ... Also note that these turn on with a LOW so you need…
  • Robert Peter Oakes
    Robert Peter Oakes over 10 years ago in reply to screamingtiger +2
    80mA for Arduino and 1A for lights adds up to 1.08Amps, not 1.8. This would provide a much longer life time (18.5 Hrs) so even with brakes you should easily get 10-12 Hr (Unless you're a heavy breaker…
  • clem57
    clem57 over 10 years ago +2
    Totally amazed is the word today. Plus a tropical depression has taken over here. LOL
Parents
  • screamingtiger
    screamingtiger over 10 years ago

    I bought this relay system and it doesn't work  image

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/231573073495?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

     

    Its a 12V relay system so I have to use 12V into the VCC and the input pins are driven by 5V.  So I connect 5V in, the relays trip.  The code is simple, digital high and low with a 1 second delay.  Pins are output.

    The little LEDS turn off and on as expected but the relays do not trip.  I don't have a load on them but should not matter.  If I use 12V as required into the VCC, the leds only turn on, then go dimmer, never off.

    I have a common ground between the arduino and relay board as well.

     

    What is going on?

     

    I went ahead and 2nd day aired a 5v version, I will just run it off the same regulator as the arduino.  Anybody have any experience with these?

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  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 10 years ago in reply to screamingtiger

    Joey

    Did you remove the jumper .. JD-VCC to VCC ?

    You apply the 12v to JD-VCC  NOT THE VCC PIN


    The 5v on the VCC pin is to power the Optocouplers ...

     

    Also note that these turn on with a LOW so you need to reverse your ON/OFF code.

    image

     

    image

     

    Typical poor Asian support.

    The indicator LED's on the schamatic are drawn reversed.

     

    Mark

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  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 10 years ago in reply to screamingtiger

    Joey

    Did you remove the jumper .. JD-VCC to VCC ?

    You apply the 12v to JD-VCC  NOT THE VCC PIN


    The 5v on the VCC pin is to power the Optocouplers ...

     

    Also note that these turn on with a LOW so you need to reverse your ON/OFF code.

    image

     

    image

     

    Typical poor Asian support.

    The indicator LED's on the schamatic are drawn reversed.

     

    Mark

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  • screamingtiger
    screamingtiger over 10 years ago in reply to mcb1

    Let me see if I understand,

    I need 5V to vcc, and 12V to JD-vcc pin?  What is that jumper for then??

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  • screamingtiger
    screamingtiger over 10 years ago in reply to mcb1

    Its working now, I have no idea why it does, but I'll take it!  For the opto couplers, do you know the current draw?  I have it connected to a 1A regulator of which I am using 80ma so I assume 920mA is suffice for the opto couplers (all 4).

     

    Thanks, These are sold all over but seem to be poorly documented, I have used relays but I liked the idea of the opto couplers with the high current throwing around in there.

     

    Man I owe you, the LEDs and now this.

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  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 10 years ago in reply to screamingtiger

    What is that jumper for then??

    Many of these boards have 5v relays BUT you could easily power this from a 12v system.

     

    For the opto couplers, do you know the current draw?

    Like most Asian support there is no value for the series resistor.

     

    However the forward voltage of a LED is approx 1.4v, so 5v - 1.4 (opto) - 1.4 (led) = 2.2v

    If we assume the resistor is 470 ohms 2.2/470 = 0.0046 or 4.6mA.

    If the resistor is 220 then about 8mA, for 1k then 2mA.

     

    Its safe to say you could budget 5mA max for each opto.

     

    If you want to know how to work it out ....

    find the datasheet for the opto, and see if you can measure or note the resistor value ...then you can do the maths above ..

    Man I owe you, the LEDs and now this.

    So mark my answer correct ... oh you can't its not a question.image

    You haven't found the hidden camera then ...

    Mark

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  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 10 years ago in reply to screamingtiger

    These are sold all over but seem to be poorly documented,

    yes but it depends on what supplier you use.

    Terry King is very good, he always tests and dicuments all his products, and the price is not much more, but guaranteed.

    Opto-Isolated 4 Channel Relay Board

     

    Try this page for additional info

    http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/ArduinoPower

    NOTE the realys on the board are 5v.

     

    Mark

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