Toner Transfer method for inkjet printers?

Typically the transfer method requires a Laser print. Ink jet printers use ink which soaks into the paper while Laser printers use a plastic powder (toner) which is melted onto the paper/transparency which can be re-melted by ironing onto PC boards etc.

Do you have access to a laser printer?

Hope this helps,

Bill

I haven't tried it myself, but from what I've seen the "toner" part of "toner transfer" refers to the toner in a laser printer.

But don't photocopiers use laser/toner? So a 3 cent copy at a place like Staples would probably do the trick.

ps, Instructables has some good write-ups on the topic, including this one: Toner transfer no-soak, high-quality, double sided PCBs at home

Cheers,

-Nico

Rob Paige wrote:

 

I've heard that overhead transparency sheets will do the trick, but before I spend a fortune on those, I though I'd solicit your advice.

It's all about how dense you can get the print, and that likely varies from printer to printer, and type of acetate sheet (some sheets melt in the photocopier : ) From what I've heard, apparently older printers/copiers may be better at it.

If you can hold the printed sheet it to the light and barely see anything through the toner, then that is likely to work. Otherwise, it is not worth going ahead with the rest of the process.

I used to do this for some boards, and then later discovered a company that did photoplotting (which is the ultimate in density) but now I don't do that either, because the photoplotting service is still relatively expensive : (

A laser printer and glossy paper (Ikea catalogue) work quite well.

Cleaning the board very thoroughly with acetone before transferring is critical for quality.

I might be able to track one down. I'm going to look very weird bringing an iron into the lab...

I used acetone and a Scotchbrite pad. I think my problem is the wrong type for printer for regular paper.

Just out of curiosity, what do you use these days?

Hi Rob,

After it got too expensive with photoplots (and I didn't have a decent laser printer), I just use a local firm to create the board from the CAD files, or alternatively there are some companies in China too, for lower cost. However there is the delay, so it's not really a solution :-(, just an option of working around if you are willing to tolerate a delay of a couple of weeks. I think I would re-try a home method at some stage, but I need to re-obtain chemicals, heater, bath, etc - not sure I still have them :-( although I kept the home-made UV source (nothing sophisticated, a few UV tubes placed inside a flatbed scanner case, with normal fluorescent tubes interspersed and a switch, so it can double as a normal light box).

For prototypes I use either iteadstudio, and with $25 shipment you'll get your boards within 3 weeks. The other option I use is Wuerth Elektronik. More expensive, but more consistent in quality.

Rob,

I've tried a couple of things while in college, after a few failures, I found the photosensitive ink method. This s similar to the photo reveal process and really worked to me.

I'm currently producing PCBs with a lot of ICs and microcontrollers and I'm able to print 30 even 15 mills traces with perfection.

Try to look in the internet, it is cheap, easy and the quality is surprising.