Group Actions
Engagement
  • Author Author: fvan
  • Date Created: Date Created
  • Views 2215 views
  • Likes 0 likes
  • Comments 11 comments
Related
Recommended

Gizmo2: 3D Printable Enclosure - First Iteration

fvan

 

Introduction

 

To protect my brand new GIZMO 2 board from the pointy and metal objects (and the rest of the mess) scattered around my desk, I decided to design a simple 3D printable enclosure for it, which would still expose all interfaces. I'm no professional designer, so it's more a functional enclosure rather than a fancy looking one image

 

I took various measurements of the board, especially around the ports and started porting this to SketchUp.

 

Design

 

This is what the first version of the design looks like:

imageimage

As I said, the focus is more on the functional side of things. The enclosure has following "features":

  • access to microSD card
  • 1cm standoffs, allowing room for mSATA/mini PCIe device
  • opening for high and low speed card edge connectors
  • opening for all ports: power, hdmi, USB3, audio, USB2 & ethernet
  • removable lid with an opening for the fan

 

I've attached the SketchUp files to this post in case anyone wants to build further from this. After printing, I'll check which adjustments need to be made and

 

Print

 

Having finalised a first version of the model, I tried to print it. The heated bed on my Printrbot was barely large enough, but it fit.

 

I enabled support material when slicing the model because of the many openings. After printing, I was able to easily remove it using small pliers.

There was a little lifting during printing, so the enclosure isn't totally straight, but it's still functional.

 

Here it is, in all its glory:

imageimageimage

Power, USB and Ethernet access is OK. HDMI and audio are a bit off. I'll have to work on that for the next iteration.

 

Hope you like it! Feel free to provide feedback on the enclosure or make your own based on the files attached.

Attachments:
gizmo-bottom.skp.zip
gizmo-top.skp.zip
Parents

  • Hi Frederick, when printing your case, did you hav eissues with curling on the corners

     

    I finally got my Robox 3D printer and tried twice to pring he case, the top and botton came out reasonably well but the middle curked up by over 16th of an inch making the result very un-usable

    I was using Purple ABS on the ROBOX

     

    Can you provide the settings you used ?

     

    if anyone else has any tips to help, it would be appreciated as im very new to this

     

    Thanks

  • in reply to Robert Peter Oakes

    Hi Peter,   Welcome to the world of 3D printing.

    ABS is a lot more prone to curling so adding a brim should help and many recommend no cooling too.  My printer is open so when using ABS I put a large cardboard box around it to keep it warm inside, that helped, but I see the Robox is enclosed anyway.  I am currently designing / building a new printer that is enclosed with internal temperature control.

    Like Frederick I have a glass plate on the heated bed and I give it a thin coat of UHU glue stick and I haven't had any problems with ABS, PLA or PET filaments with this set-up.  For ABS I have the heated bed set to 110C and hot end at 240C but settings for your printer may be somewhat different.

Comment
  • in reply to Robert Peter Oakes

    Hi Peter,   Welcome to the world of 3D printing.

    ABS is a lot more prone to curling so adding a brim should help and many recommend no cooling too.  My printer is open so when using ABS I put a large cardboard box around it to keep it warm inside, that helped, but I see the Robox is enclosed anyway.  I am currently designing / building a new printer that is enclosed with internal temperature control.

    Like Frederick I have a glass plate on the heated bed and I give it a thin coat of UHU glue stick and I haven't had any problems with ABS, PLA or PET filaments with this set-up.  For ABS I have the heated bed set to 110C and hot end at 240C but settings for your printer may be somewhat different.

Children
No Data