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Engagement
Author: shabaz
Date Created: 9 Aug 2013 11:53 PM
Views: 2396
Likes: 18
Comments: 129
  • beaglebone_black
  • bbb
  • bb_black
  • beagle_bone_black
  • ti
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Recommended

BBB - Rechargeable on-board battery system

shabaz
shabaz
9 Aug 2013

Note April 2017: There are different revisions of the BeagleBone Black since this post was written in 2013, and without testing them all, it is the user's decision whether to try this solution or not. The revision changes are listed here and a possible option for at least some revision boards is shown in the photo here but I've not investigated this. The newer BeagleBone Blue already has a battery connection, so that is another option.

 

This posting is about implementing a rechargeable battery system for the BeagleBone Black. It is simple, safe and very low cost (less than 6 Euro).

 

 

First, some brief information about the power circuitry on the BBB.

 

The BBB has a built-in power management IC (PMIC) based on the TI TPS65217C device. This device contains multiple switch-mode regulators and LDO regulators to provide all voltage levels needed for the entire board. It handles wake-up using a push-button fitted on the BBB. Automatic power-down via the button requires some software to be implemented (to do the equivalent of 'shutdown now' from the command line). When the button is pressed, an interrupt is generated and the microprocessor is supposed to query the PMIC (via I2C) to learn that the button was pressed, and kick off the shutdown sequence. In the event of a failure here, the power can be switched off by holding the button down for 8 seconds.

The IC also contains built-in battery charging capability.

Apart from the USB requirement of 5V, there is no need to run the BBB from 5V; it can happily run from a lower supply. This means that a single 3.7V cell could be used to power the entire board. No need to step-up to 5V or to run dual cells and step-down to 5V, both of which could have been inefficient.

Why is this useful?

It makes it an excellent platform for outdoor/portable use.

For indoor use a battery is useful because it serves as a backup supply in case the main power (from a mains powered supply or from USB) gets disconnected. It could prevent filesystem corruption. If the main supply gets disconnected, the battery immediately takes over. In fact, I permanently leave the battery connected even when I'm running from the mains supply, in case I forget to safely shutdown the board.

What battery can be used?

Any small Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) or Lithium Polymer (Li-Po) single cell can be used, preferably as long as it has a built-in protection circuit. If it doesn't have an in-built circuit, it is highly advisable that one with a built-in thermistor is used. A cell in the range 700mAH to around 2AH is advisable. The one that I used in the photo above is from Olimex part code BATTERY-LIPO1400mAh. It should last around 3.5 hours (EDIT: Now been measured, it lasts 2 hours 50 minutes - see notes below, and comments below) on a full charge (not measured) and should fully charge in around 2 hours. This particular battery is just the right size to fit in between the two rows of headers and is flush so that a cape can still be plugged on top. So, the entire thing can fit inside any enclosure.

You will also need a connector (see next section) and one resistor.

Construction detail

The BBB has four holes that are suitable for connecting up the battery. They are detailed in the BBB system reference manual (SRM):

This is what they look like:

The Olimex Li-Po has a built-in protection circuit, so I soldered a 10k resistor to TS and GND to simulate the thermistor. (EDIT: You may or may not wish to do this, please study Li-Po and use your own judgement - see comments below) It is desirable to use a connector for the Li-Po.

The LiPo connector was convenient to solder to pins TP6 and TP8, and then  a zero-ohm link between TP5 and TP6 on the underside.

Here is how it was done step-by-step (there are just two steps):

1. Solder the 10k resistor, and a zero-ohm link (both are achieved on the underside of the board) as shown here in the yellow box. These are simple 0603 resistors; I used a 1% tolerance resistor, but 5% should be fine.

2. Solder in the connector.

This is straightforward, but complicated slightly by the fact that the connector has 2mm pin spacing, but the board has 0.1" spacing. It means that the pins on the connector need to be splayed or bent into the correct spacing. The connectors are available in vertical mount or right-angle (RA) mount. If you use a vertical mount connector, there may not be enough space to splay the pins. Instead, I used a right-angle connector and bent the pins into a vertical orientation, and then I had space to bend the pins and still have the connector flush with the board as shown here. You can see another view of the connector from the first photo.

I'm fairly sure that the desired connector is JST 'PH' series.

 

That's it; plugging in the battery, the board worked instantly. Note that the Li-Po charge method is usually to have a constant current supplied to the battery until it reaches a certain, very precise voltage. After that the charger switches to a constant-voltage mode. For the Li-Po battery that I used, the charger needs to be set to 4.2V, but the BBB by default sets it to 4.1V (It can be set to 4.2V via I2C control but today it doesn't). I'm not sure what the impact of this is (beyond storing less charge), but I believe it is safe. I have been using it daily for three months and the battery is always cool to touch.

Controlling the PMIC

The TPS65217C PMIC is very programmable; it has dozens of configuration settings specifically for charging and it has safety timer capability. The PMIC is configured upon startup via I2C. There are three I2C busses on the BBB, and one is dedicated to on-board peripherals. Control of the PMIC is not normally possibly by the user; it requires driver code or possibly there is access by the device tree infrastructure. Checking the .dts file in /boot did not reveal how to control the battery charger functionality. There are two current Google Summer of Code (GSoC) projects that touch on PMIC:

1. IIO, ADC, PMIC, LCD debug/patchwork (summary page, blog page) - Zubair Lutfullah

2. MINIX I2C drivers (summary page, blog page) - Thomas Cort

Hopefully the guys working on the projects (Zubair and Thomas) can offer some advice on how to set the level to 4.2V. Zubair's project also includes how to use the in-built ADC inside the AM3359 to monitor voltages.

Notes

There really should be some more detail including measurements to show how long the battery lasts and to observe the charging status (via I2C reads). Unfortunately I didn't have time to collect this information. But I've been using it for three months regularly and it functions well.

EDIT: The following simple test was conducted using the Olimex battery referred to above.

1. Power up the BBB using the DC power supply and let it charge the battery while powering the BBB

2. After about 4-5 hours, the DC supply was disconnected, and a script was run on the BBB to log the current date/time to a file, every minute. The script would sleep in-between. The Ethernet connection was left up, and the BBB was left alone until the battery died, and then the log file was examined.

 

#!/bin/bash
while true; do
date >> log.txt
sleep 60
done

 

The result was that the log file showed that the BBB ran for 2 hours 30 minutes before it died. After this, the test was repeated. The second time, it ran for 2 hours 50 minutes. The discrepancy may be because this battery has never been fully charged followed by such a long discharge, and so perhaps it is related to that. No test has been run with the Ethernet disconnected, but the BBB should run for longer in that case of course.

In a third test, the battery again ran for  2 hours 50 minutes (to within 1 minute). Again, this was with the Ethernet interface up.

Anonymous

Top Comments

  • shabaz
    shabaz over 8 years ago in reply to morgaine +2

    Hi Morgaine,

     

    Thanks!

    That's a good link and tip. I too had found the connector tight.

     

    Hi John,

     

    (Replying here so that we can retain the battery comments in a single location):

     

    John Alexander wrote:

     

                           

     

    How…

  • shabaz
    shabaz over 8 years ago in reply to fustini +2

    Hi Drew,

     

    I'm not sure where the 500mV number could be from. The charge voltage will go up to 4.2V, or at least it should, but today is 4.1V until the PMIC is programmed for a 4.2V threshold). Apparently…

  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 8 years ago in reply to shabaz +2

    Nice project.

     

    There are LDO regulators that can be lower than 500mV.

     

    We had a very interesting talk about LiPo/LiOn batteries by the battery expert at a local large firm that has them in their radios.

    The…

Parents
  • morgaine
    morgaine over 8 years ago

    Great article, thanks shabaz.  And I see you've extended it nicely from your earlier post, very useful.

     

    To go with this topic, some good advice on Li-Po battery care, courtesy of Sparkfun.  (I slice off the retaining lug on one side only of the battery's flying lead connector --- that's a good compromise between staying firmly in place and ease of extraction.)

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  • morgaine
    morgaine over 8 years ago

    Great article, thanks shabaz.  And I see you've extended it nicely from your earlier post, very useful.

     

    To go with this topic, some good advice on Li-Po battery care, courtesy of Sparkfun.  (I slice off the retaining lug on one side only of the battery's flying lead connector --- that's a good compromise between staying firmly in place and ease of extraction.)

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 8 years ago in reply to morgaine

    Hi Morgaine,

     

    Thanks!

    That's a good link and tip. I too had found the connector tight.

     

    Hi John,

     

    (Replying here so that we can retain the battery comments in a single location):

     

    John Alexander wrote:

     

                           

     

    How long do you get as an "average" running off that battery alone?

     

    From that photo it looks like a 1400/1500ma battery is as big as you can hide in there is that right ..could you squeeze a jumbo 2000ma in there and still use the capes ?

     

                       

    I think about 3-3.5 hours is feasible on the Olimex Li-Po battery that I used (1400mAH), this was just an estimate based on a current measurement I did a while back. With a 2000mAH battery there may not be enough space between the rows of headers, but it could be placed underneath or on top, since they are often quite shallow and large. Charge time may be around 3 hours, and uptime would be in the region of 5 hours possibly.

    Another idea could be Li-Ion instead of Li-Po (the BBB can use either), because they are available in a cylindrical form which may be more convenient depending on the case. This battery may be suitable (2200mAH). I have this 2900mAH Li-Ion battery which I've not tried yet. (These batteries are not cheap, but it's worth playing it safe with high-capacity cells. According to the data, the latter one could operate in -20 degrees C conditions which could be handy). Here is a size comparison:

    It is taller, but it may fit a case:

    The connector is different however (it is JST 'XH' series), and the wire is short too. To use this battery, one way could be to chop off the connector and replace with a different one, and find an inline mating connector (the JST 'XH' series doesn't have an inline mating connector, just a PCB mount connector although wires and heatshrink could be used to make it into an inline connector) and connect it to the BBB using soldered wires. This battery has a protection circuit, and also an external thermistor connection on the yellow wire, so it would be very safe.

    Uptime on battery power with this could be very long, maybe 7 hours.

     

    By the way, the BBB power button is brought out to a pin on one of the headers, so it is possible to get the BBB to power off (using 'shutdown now') and then wake it up by pulling the pin to ground, which could be done with an alarm set on an external RTC possibly. This could then allow the BBB to automatically run intermittently to extend battery life for days or longer.

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  • morgaine
    morgaine over 8 years ago in reply to shabaz

    shabaz wrote:

    John Alexander wrote:


    How long do you get as an "average" running off that battery alone?

     

    From that photo it looks like a 1400/1500ma battery is as big as you can hide in there is that right ..could you squeeze a jumbo 2000ma in there and still use the capes ?

    With a 2000mAH battery there may not be enough space between the rows of headers, but it could be placed underneath or on top, since they are often quite shallow and large.

    I have a Sparkfun 2000mAh Li-Po battery, and it doesn't fit between the headers but rests across the top of them quite nicely --- in fact it has the same width as the BBB.  Or rather, it would rest across them nicely if the PTC RXEF010 polyswitch fuse RT1 weren't in the way (orange blob near the USB host socket), because it's taller than the headers.

     

    It's probably possible to unsolder RT1 and refit it with leads shortened, but carefully of course as overheating polyfuses is unlikely to be good for them.  Or it might be possible to bend it out of the way slightly as its legs are quite long ... but physical stress isn't good either, heh.  I'd probably risk the latter if I wanted the battery to go there, but I think I'd prefer to mount it beneath the BBB or elsewhere just to give the SoC some air clearance.  It doesn't get overly hot, but enclosing its top surface won't help.  Also, that could heat the battery beyond its charging spec, 0 to 40C preferred.

     

    The height of RT1 may actually be a manufacturing fault.  It doesn't seem correct that anything should be higher than P8 and P9 at any point between them.  Isn't that going to obstruct every cape?  It seems certain to prevent my little prototyping cape from being pushed down fully if I were to do that.

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 8 years ago in reply to morgaine

    Hi Morgaine,

     

    It's interesting the RT1 is so high, yet the electrolytic next to it is ultra-low profile :-)

    According to the circuit, RT1 is connected to a 5V pin on the HDMI connector only, so I guess it coulds be safely bent or even snipped off if HDMI is not used. I was wondering why 5V was needed, and found this link which indicates that 55mA should be available to read the EDID of a display (presumably even when it is off).

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