CRYDOM 1F25 FILTER Application

Anyone, please.

If anyone that is seeing this post know someone that can answer, please ask him.

Cheers.

Hi Cidi.

I apologize for not seeing your original question.  It didn't pop up in the SSR section where I receive notifications but I trust that the following will provide you with the info on what the 1F25 filter is and does, and it should be of use to you.

It is a correct statement that phase angle control will tend to create varying levels of undesired electrical harmonic noise when operated at phase angles other than full on or full off.  In many of those cases, the harmonic nose may exceed that allowed by the EN standards.  Fortunately, in many of those cases, a bypass filter (like the 1F25) can reduce the noise to an acceptable level.  I've attached here an "ancient" technical paper that Crydom had generated just about 20 years ago on the SSR Filters that should be of use to explain what it does and why it works.  The contact information on this old paper is quite out of date, but the content isn't.  

You ask about an alternative...    Most "line conditioning" types of filters would be a more thorough solution, (since they pass the full load current through the filter), but they tend to be more expensive than the bypass filter since load current enters into the picture and they are sized accordingly.

Regards,

Pete B.

Attachments:

Filter App Notes.pdf

Hi.

Thank you for your answer.

I've read the document and based on what I've read and what you said this product should be the most cost efective product for my needs.

If you have anything more to add, please, I would appreciate your input.

Cheers.

If you are controlling  a water heater it is a mistake to use phase angle control with its attendant interference problems. You can use zero voltage switching so that you power the heater for complete mains cycles (or half cycles, but full cycles is better). The thermal time constant of  a 2.5kW water heater and the water tank will be quite long so you can supply 1/4 power by (for example) 100 cycles on and 300 cycles off  - which is on for two seconds and off for 6 (at 50Hz). This would be fine for  water heater (but bad for  a light dimmer ).

MK

Hi.

Thank you for your input.

I've been analyzing that for a while and I don't know if it will work correctly because that way I cannot fixate a constant power consumption.

The objective is to consume the solar energy production that is not being consumed by other devices at home and prevent it from going into the grid and be lost.

The problem is that, I believe that my utility meter (very recent one) has a very small energy packet and with that method I may be allowing power to be lost and at the same time be paying.

The other problem I believe may happen is the flickering caused by the on-off.

I'm divided...

Cheers.

I think you would need to check the specification of the meter very carefully to know if zero voltage switching would work for your meter (and the spec may well not really say).

Probably phase angle control and filtering is the only way.

MK.

Hi.

I've found a manual of a similar model that I've read most and I think there isn't anything about that there.

And I can not be sure because I've noticed that the impulse led seems to also flash when the energy flow is negative (putting energy to the grid) so it is very hard to know if it is counting or not.

Cheers.