dougw OH BTW take a look at this website  it is all about wiring!! enjoy ~~ Cris

 dougw Oh, my favorite hatted thing to do in the shop! Before we can build a custom cable you have to take a long look at "TOOLING" Well if you are working with mill connectors, which I do, they come in two flavors, solder and crimp and then poke home. For solder connectors, you need your wire to be striped to the proper length and then dipped into the solder pot then soldered into the appropriate "cup", now you should use shrink over the wire cup and the wire, hopefully, you did it right and there < 1/8" between the top of the cup and the insulation!!! If you did it right, get a beer!, Now for the monster in the crimp and poke! well just like before you have to strip the wire. Then get the right tools and accessories to make the perfect crimp. crimp it can then poke it home, please note you don't need the shrink tubing here. 

Now the question is this a one-off if not, I normally try and build a jig to plug into my cable tester.. But then I need to develop a Map.  lets say the cable that we are talking about has a large round connector at one end and 3 or 4 smaller connectors at the other end. PRAY that there are no errors. My little tester has 100 outputs and 100 inputs! 

ALL off the paper work for each connector is stored on the computer. 

You'll be wanting 'aglets' next for your shoelaces  

A while back I had some ferrules that tended to stick in the die of the crimp tool after crimping. I think the standard helps more with that aspect nowadays.

With the insulated types it can sometimes be difficult to get a good fit on both the conductor and then on the insulation.

If I build something for someone else, I try and pack a schematic inside the enclosure just in case someone in the future needs to work on it.

I have a bunch of these and they’re very useful. In fact, I had to dig them out to help with a 3D Printer I’m in the middle of building.

They are also useful as test points on a board, at least with through holes but I’ve not tried soldering one to a pad.  If you push it through the hole on the PCB, the flange will stop it falling through and your probe end will slot neatly inside and be held freeing a hand up.

Both types would be useful.

I've used that brand for a few years, they are tinned copper (like the DIN standard requires). The dimensioning tolerances might be different though. But even with the DIN standard, there's actually very few guidelines on wire thickness matching to ferrule size, and a lot of the ferrule crimpers have just the single hole for accepting all sizes of ferrules. But agree one shouldn't cheap out for a critical application. And definitely avoid complete no-name products which might not even be the correct material.

Perhaps need to be careful when going cheap that they are still DIN 46228-1 etc. so as to get a consistent crimping quality.

Oh.. the metal flange is useful for gathering the strands. You definitely want them without flange?