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Arduino Forum 4 Channel 12V relay system issues.
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4 Channel 12V relay system issues.

screamingtiger
screamingtiger over 10 years ago

mcb1

I bought this relay system and it doesn't work 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231573073495?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Its a 12V relay system so I have to use 12V into the VCC and the input pins are driven by 5V.  So I connect 5V in, the relays trip.  The code is simple, digital high and low with a 1 second delay.  Pins are output.

The little LEDS turn off and on as expected but the relays do not trip.  I don't have a load on them but should not matter.  If I use 12V as required into the VCC, the leds only turn on, then go dimmer, never off.

I have a common ground between the arduino and relay board as well.

 

What is going on?

 

I went ahead and 2nd day aired a 5v version, I will just run it off the same regulator as the arduino.  Anybody have any experience with these?

 

<body><p>I bought this relay system and it doesn't work  <img ___jive_emoticon_name="sad" class="jive_macro jive_emote" jivemacro="emoticon" src="http://www.element14.com/community/images/emoticons/sad.gif"/></p><p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/231573073495?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT">http://www.ebay.com/itm/231573073495?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT</a></p><p></p><p>Its a 12V relay system so I have to use 12V into the VCC and the input pins are driven by 5V.  So I connect 5V in, the relays trip.  The code is simple, digital high and low with a 1 second delay.  Pins are output.</p><p>The little LEDS turn off and on as expected but the relays do not trip.  I don't have a load on them but should not matter.  If I use 12V as required into the VCC, the leds only turn on, then go dimmer, never off.</p><p>I have a common ground between the arduino and relay board as well.</p><p></p><p>What is going on?</p><p></p><p>I went ahead and 2nd day aired a 5v version, I will just run it off the same regulator as the arduino.  Anybody have any experience with these?</p></body>
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  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 10 years ago +2 verified
    Joey Did you remove the jumper .. JD-VCC to VCC ? You apply the 12v to JD-VCC NOT THE VCC PIN The 5v on the VCC pin is to power the Optocouplers ... Also note that these turn on with a LOW so you need…
  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 10 years ago in reply to screamingtiger +2
    Hi Joey, From my experience you will probably find that the 12 V relays will close at about 8 volts and release around 3 or 4 volts. If you have a variable voltage supply you can test this for yourself…
  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 10 years ago in reply to screamingtiger +2
    but I do not have 3.3V any where Many of the optical mice have a 3v3 regulator inside (looks like a transistor) if you want to canabilise something. Some of the Arduino's have a 3v3 regulator onboard…
  • balearicdynamics
    0 balearicdynamics over 10 years ago in reply to mcb1

    Sorry, I was milling and I have lost some episode of the series image . Also ignoring that it was a question and not a discussion ...

     

    Enrico.

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 10 years ago in reply to screamingtiger

    What is JD anyways?

    Jumper Dynamics .... who knows since it is Asian sourced it may be a mispell ....

     

    It's likely that it wouldn't work at 6.6v.

    The relays are intended for 12v operation, your lamps are designed for 12v operation, so at 11v I would be considering the battery is down beyond safe use.

     

    Your change to LED's will give a lower operating voltage with similar brightness as LED's are linear.

    Incandescent lamps are not...

    image

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 10 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

    It's easy to miss when the inbox only presents parts of the discussion.....image

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  • screamingtiger
    0 screamingtiger over 10 years ago in reply to mcb1

    mcb1 wrote:

     

    What is JD anyways?

    Jumper Dynamics .... who knows since it is Asian sourced it may be a mispell ....

     

     

     

    Its getting harder to find things that are not, they have flooded Ebay and Amazon.  They now stock things in the US so the source is from the US meaning its even harder to discern.  Some go to great lengths to forge logos etc.

     

    I suppose using a reputable retailer is preferred.  I'll admit I do enjoy making a order to china and paying the $2 shipping and waiting a few weeks.  Its a good way to get cheap experimental items such as regulators and discrete components.  Its also hard to beat free 2 day shipping from Amazon.

     

    However without proper support some things would never work such as this relay board.  I highly doubt I would have connected 12V to the JD-VCC pin, but maybe in desperation.

     

    Everything in this project Is chinesed sourced except the lights I ordered. Today will be the day I test the wireless adapters so I guess I'll see if I am going to pay the price for my cheapness.

     

    The Arduino Pro minis I am using a Chinese sourced, they are still nearly $3 but work perfectly and all pins are broken out unlike many other copies.  I do own several legitimate arduinos ordered from Spark Fun.  They just "feel" nicer.  the real pro minis I have I got on sale for $6.

     

    I don't plan to order any more arduinos I plan to switch to a different platform going forward, probably ARM based though I really like the Parallax Propeller.

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  • Robert Peter Oakes
    0 Robert Peter Oakes over 10 years ago

    The jumper is to allow you to completly isolate the drive tothe relays  from the drive to the opto isolators if you want to

     

    The optos can probable work on any voltage from 5V to 12V, it is what you use to drive the optos that will limit this. If you use an ULN2003 for example then it will work with 5-12 easily, if your running directly from the output of a controller then it will be limited to 5V (Assuming a 5V controller output but it will have to be able to sink 10mA ish.

     

    With the jumper removed you will NOT connect the GND lead to the controller, you will feed the VCC with the supply that is common to the controller (5V for example) and the controller will sink the current to its ground when it wants the relay to turn on

     

    the relay power (12V) would be supplied to the JDVcc pin and the ground of the relay board will goto the ground of the 12V supply only

     

    this would keep the micro completly isolated from the relay power so less noise interfering with the micro controller.

     

    if you have the jumper in place then you can not fed the micro power (5V) to the board as it will not work at that voltage (Relays) and if you power the board with 12V you will need an intermediate driver that will level shift the 5V from the controller to 12V  (IE a ULN2003, Transistor or FET... your choice). see this video for additional info:

    http://www.element14.com/community/groups/internet-of-things/blog/2014/08/05/driving-big-loads-with-your-micro-controller--no-isolation

    http://www.element14.com/community/groups/internet-of-things/blog/2014/08/05/drive-big-things-with-added-safety-opto-isolators

    http://www.element14.com/community/groups/internet-of-things/blog/2014/08/05/sense-big-things-with-your-launchpad-or-arduino-opto-isolated-inputs

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 10 years ago in reply to Robert Peter Oakes
    These do not function at all at 5V nor 6.6V for if they did I would not of had any issue

    Might pay to read the whole post....

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  • Robert Peter Oakes
    0 Robert Peter Oakes over 10 years ago in reply to mcb1

    image, did read...

    In my post im talking about driving the OPTO isolators from 5 - 12V, not the relays, I clearly say they need 12V and if you have the jumper in then you need 12V +  a level shifter image

     

    Back at ya image

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  • screamingtiger
    0 screamingtiger over 10 years ago in reply to Robert Peter Oakes

    He was talking to me.

     

    12V on the VCC did not work.  Which is odd considering is jumped to JD-VCC, even if I put 12V on the input pins.  I tried.

     

    In summary, with the jumper installed on the 12V relay system, the whole unit is useless, there is no configuration with the jumper installed that will work.  Even if you level shift the input, I tried.

     

    The input pins MUSt be 5V, no more.  VCC must be 5V, no more.  JD-Vcc must be 12V (or something close, I will test the lower limit but it is NOT 6.6V, that didn't fire them.)

     

    this is good information but keep in mine mine is a cheap Chinese knockoff, who knows how it was made and if it will behave as expected, we could discuss all day.  I could make a video proving each scenario, but that may only work for my specific unit!

     

    I still do not understand why the have a jumper when there are 12V relays and VCC cannot have more than 12V.  (If you put 12V the leds light up permanently while power is installed which is not a good sign)

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  • Robert Peter Oakes
    0 Robert Peter Oakes over 10 years ago in reply to screamingtiger

    nope, your assesment is correct, relay voltage must be 12V nominal

     

    the rest is about sinking (NOT Sourcing) the opto input to gnd

     

    my previous post will work assuming nothing is broken

     

    Peter

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  • screamingtiger
    0 screamingtiger over 10 years ago

    Well my 3.3V regs didn't come in today, they are here in town but should be delivered tomorrow.  So I wont have them done by Friday as I wanted.  Unfortunately I need to test the wireless code but I do not have 3.3V any where, and no idea of current draw so voltage divider wont work.  Bullocks!

     

    Im going on a long trip next week so I MUST have them working by mid next week  image

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