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PiCasso Design Challenge
Blog HoloPiBot #7 : Four Wheels on My Picasso
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  • Author Author: dubbie
  • Date Created: 3 May 2019 5:17 PM Date Created
  • Views 1373 views
  • Likes 7 likes
  • Comments 9 comments
  • picasso design challenge
  • step motors
  • holopibot
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HoloPiBot #7 : Four Wheels on My Picasso

dubbie
dubbie
3 May 2019

For my unofficial Picasso Design Challenge I needed some more ABS filament for my 3D printer in order to complete the fourth motor unit. The filament turned up yesterday, all the way from America, and expensive! but I knew that when I bought the printer. After 3 hours I had managed to get my printer going again. I had used almost all my previous filament to make three motor units and it transpired that there was only about 5 cm of filament left, which was of course inside the feed tube. Withdrawing the filament didn't do any good as it just withdraw into the feed tube. Eventually I had to remove the feed tube and then remove the 5 cm of old filament. Unfortunately when inserting the new filament all I could get was a knocking sound coming from the print head and no filament being extruded. After some head scratching I decided that there was no option but to disassemble  the print head to see what was going on.

 

I haven't taken a 3D print head to pieces before so I had no idea what to expect. Plus it is over 12 months since I purchased the printer and I had no idea where the manual or the tools were. Still, there is the internet so I managed to find a manual which was no use but it did lead to a YouTube video which was very useful, if a little fast in progressing through all the steps. I had to go and find the tool kit as it had the Allen keys needed. It did seem like I had to disassemble the entire thing but eventually I was able to get to the step motor driven filament feeder and found a 5 mm piece of filament nestling in the print head. This seemed to be preventing the new filament feeding in properly. I'm not sure why it didn't melt and let the new filament in, but it didn't. After some messing about I was able to re-assemble the print head and re-install it in my printer. I was more than surprised when it actually seemed to be working again, only to be disappointed after 30 minutes when the print became detached from the heated plate. I then had to do a print head calibration and reset the plate material to perf board as it had accidentally been changed to something else. Whatever I did, it seemed to solve the problem and I was able to print the final motor unit support.

 

Installing on the display was quite easy as I just had to remove the support leg and add the 3D printed motor support. Fortunately I was able to do this without having to remove the bottom two layers of acrylic from the display.

 

This left the connection of all eight step motors to the Arduino being used to test everything. I decided to reduce the number of step motor drive PCBs by driving the four forward/backward step motors from one stepper PCB and the four direction step motors from a second stepper PCB. The idea was to simplify the wiring and save space. I needed to create a distribution board which I did using Veroboard. All it contains are connectors so it wasn't that complicated, although everything was close together as I was trying to save space and that made all the soldering and connecting difficult. Eventually I was able to get everything connected and I now have four drive wheels moving in the same direction and four direction motors, also all moving in the same direction, see the video below.

 

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Something that I had not really thought about was that all the wires needed to connect everything have to go somewhere. There are eight step motors with five wires each, plus the wires to the distribution board, which makes for a total of 50 wires, all of which I will somehow have to stuff underneath the display, along with the battery and Raspberry Pi/Arduino. At the moment everything uses push connectors and the Dupont interconnection wires are rather feeble which it comes to sticking in the step motor PCBs, so there is a tendency for everything to become unconnected. I will have to be very careful and fix all the PCBs and boards to the underneath of the display and then route all the wires nicely. I think that would all be possible but then I still have the Pi Camera V2 to fix to the underneath so that is going to complicate everything.

 

Dubbie

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Top Comments

  • DAB
    DAB over 6 years ago +4
    Good post. I like the 4 wheel turning capability. DAB
  • three-phase
    three-phase over 6 years ago +3
    Nice update, good to see you are making progress. Look forward to seeing it the right way up crabbing in all directions. Kind regards.
  • three-phase
    three-phase over 6 years ago in reply to dubbie +3
    Depending on the nature of the wiring, you can either ty-rap / cable tie the wires together and perhaps to some supports on the frame, or if you need more movement in the wires you can utilise cable wrap…
  • dubbie
    dubbie over 6 years ago in reply to genebren

    Gene,

     

    Yes, the reversing was ust to connect the step motor wires D C B A instead of A B C D. It was surprisingly easy. The step motor driver PCB should do up to 1 Amp per channel, as these feeble step motors only need about 80 -90 mA so driving four through the same driver PCB should be OK. It didn't get warm in the short trial I made. It didn't blow up either.

     

    Dubbie

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  • dubbie
    dubbie over 6 years ago in reply to three-phase

    Donald,

     

    I have seen lacing although I've never had to do any myself (I did the graduate apprentice training and they decided that we didn't need to do that sort of detail. I didn't do tool making either, - for which I was eternally grateful - too much hand filing.) I had thought of cable ties so I might try them, especially if I can get some of the smaller ones.  I might even try the stick on hooks as well. I might even nail them to the board as it is wood -  I hadn't thought of that until just now.

     

    Dubbie

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  • genebren
    genebren over 6 years ago

    Dubbie,

     

    Looking good!  You really did not seem to mention how you were able to reverse the direction of two of the drive motors, but I assume that you just swapped a pair of signal to reverse the current flow through one of the poles on the mirror side to reverse them.  As long as your drivers have sufficient current to drive four motors, this should all work well.

     

    Keep up the good work!

    Gene

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  • genebren
    genebren over 6 years ago in reply to three-phase

    Wow, this brings back memories!  I do remember a time before tie wraps were ubiquitous and we would lace cables together in this fashion.  It took a little work, but once you developed a feel for the process you could quite quickly make a clean cabling job.

     

    Gene

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  • three-phase
    three-phase over 6 years ago in reply to dubbie

    Depending on the nature of the wiring, you can either ty-rap / cable tie the wires together and perhaps to some supports on the frame, or if you need more movement in the wires you can utilise cable wrap / spiral wrap to hold them altogether. If you are really up for it, you can go old school and utilise lacing cord.

     

    Cable ties

     

    Spiral wrap

     

    Lacing cord

     

    image

     

    There are also hook type bases that you can stick onto the chassis and support cable that way.

     

    If the wiring is fixed length, then it will always be awkward to produce a really neat job, if the wiring can be shortened to suit, then it can be made much neater.

     

    Raspberry PI programming, I will be worse at that than you.

     

    Kind regards.

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