Hey,
what I'd have made different is:
- PCB: I usually use single-sided PCBs with through-hole components, so all my jumper wires are also on the non-copper side and are going through the pcb as some sort of through-hole-bridge. Keeps the copper side clean and easy to inspect.
- Case: I'd have checked if it is possible to put the hardware in an old Gameboy Classic case since parts (specially the screen) are nearly the same size.
- 3D printed case: I'd have sanded the prints down with a fine sanding paper and then sprayed some Acetone on it. Pouring like seen in the show has the disadvantage that it build a fairly even thick layer of liquid acetone on top of the print, but if the print isn't continuous the same size it tends to warp (as seen).
Also, I'd have probably tried using nylon as a printing material and then dying the print with cloth dye (like Rit dye). It would have been an experiment for me, since I haven't tried dying prints yet, but it works great on Molex connectors.
