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  • Author Author: fmilburn
  • Date Created: 7 Aug 2018 5:32 AM Date Created
  • Views 6867 views
  • Likes 20 likes
  • Comments 32 comments
  • solar panel
  • super capacitor
  • pump
  • bubble blower
  • solarpwrdevicesch
  • motor
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Solar Bubble Blaster

fmilburn
fmilburn
7 Aug 2018

image

Summary

The Solar Bubble Blaster is the first super capacitor enabled bubble blower to be powered by the sun.  Saving the earth, one bubble at a time, there are no batteries required.

Background

This summer time project was done with my grandchildren.  Our objectives were to learn about converting solar energy into useful "work" and have fun.  With the exception of the hacked bubble blower all of the components were things I had in my junk box and parts cabinet.  The project ended up working better than expected.

Development

I had a small solar panel rated at 0.5W, 6V that I picked up at the local Radio Shack when they went out of business and were selling inventory at a discount and a small inexpensive water pump we started with.  As expected, the solar panel could not power the pump by itself so we added some super capacitors (two 1F and a 2F) that I had collected over time.  A 5.1 V Zener diode was used to control the voltage so that the 5.5 V rating of the super capacitors was not exceeded.

image

Having successfully demonstrated that the super capacitors could power the pump for at least a short period of time we began collecting additional data for an IV curve using 1% tolerance resistors as a load.

  image

Data was taken on a beautiful sunny day here in Seattle around 15:00 at a temperature of 21 degrees C with 48 % humidity.  The panel was not optimally aligned with the sun.  The open circuit voltage was around 6.6 V and the flat part of the curve at about 44 mA.  The maximum power point (MPP) occurred just over 5V  under these conditions and the panel generated about 0.22 W.

The data was scattered and I wanted to go back and repeat data collection with different panel alignment but the kids had lost interest and had gone off to blow bubbles with their grandmother.  This gave me the idea to power a bubble machine and I found and purchased a “Blitz” Light-up Bubble Blaster on sale for $3.99.

image

Preliminary Design

That night the Bubble Blaster was dissected to see how it worked and it turned out to be a very interesting device.  Disassembly was easy since screws were used throughout.  The main mechanism is shown in the photo below.

image

Three alkaline 1.5 V batteries provide the power. The trigger serves as a switch and powers the small motor directly.  A ceramic capacitor is soldered across the poles of the motor.  A worm gear is attached to a shaft on the bottom of the motor and drives a gear mechanism with a peristaltic pump for the bubble solution. The bubble solution is pumped to a serrated aperture at the front of the gun.  Another gear mechanism at the top of the same motor drives a fan which blows bubbles out of the aperture.  Also visible are red and white wires which are attached to a “blob” which controls the LEDs.  All for $3.99!

I hooked up the Bubble Blaster to my bench power supply with voltage set to 4.5 V and measured around 330 mA current with no soap solution being pumped.  Wires were then soldered to the positive and negative battery contacts so they could be connected to a breadboard.  The solar panel was also connected to the breadboard along with the super capacitors and a 5.1 V Zener to control voltage.

  image

In the photo we see that the solar panel is charging the super capacitors up to 5.24 V.  After playing around with it a bit we found that to get good performance all three super capacitors were required.  In the past I had measured the actual capacitances and found them to be at the low end of their ratings (especially the inexpensive 1F rated ones from China) and I suspect actual capacitance of the three in parallel is something around 2.5F.  There is frequently a -30% tolerance on these capacitors but I don't have a datasheet for the 1F capacitors.

Fabrication and Lab Test

That evening I soldered the following circuit on a small piece of protoboard cut to size.

image

The IN4148 diode prevents the super capacitors from discharging back through the solar panel when there is reduced light.  The 5.1V IN4733A Zener (+/- 5%) sets the voltage to the super capacitors at a measured 5.25 V and also serves as a snubber diode for back EMF protection from the motor when the trigger switch is opened. All three capacitors are in parallel. The motor wiring and LED wiring was left unchanged.

Sometimes a current limiting resistor is added in the circuit above but I did not see a reason for it in this case.  To better understand how it behaved an oscilloscope was connected and the circuit charged up with a bench power supply.  The power supply was then disconnected for the test shown below so that only the super capacitors are providing power.

image

The vertical divisions are at 500 mV and the starting voltage is 5.26 V.  The horizontal divisions are 50 ms.  When the Bubble Blaster trigger is pulled the inrush current causes the voltage to drop to almost 3.5 V.  It then begins to recover while showing a lot of noise.  After approximately a second when the trigger is released there is immediate recovery to about 4.5 V with additional slow recovery afterwards. From this I decided the circuit was performing OK, at least for a toy.

The battery compartment was hollowed out and the super capacitors and new circuitry inserted.  Enough plastic was left so that the batteries could still be reinstated should that be desired in future.  The device was reassembled, the solar panel hot glued to the top, and everything made ready for field testing.  Preparation included priming the pump with power from the bench power supply and blowing a few bubbles in the lab.  Current was closer to 400 mA when pumping liquid soap.

image

image

Field Test

The field tests were performed on 3 August 2018 at around 14:00 in full sun on another beautiful day with 21 degree C temperature. In one test we measured the starting voltage at 5.23 V and the device blew bubbles for approximately 15 seconds before stopping.  Recharge to 5.20 V took approximately one minute.

 

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One shortcoming is that it is possible to hold the trigger after voltage drops and the bubbles stop.  This causes the capacitors to discharge more than necessary which increases the time to recharge.  I considered adding something to turn off the device at a fixed low voltage but in the end the kids learned to stop pulling the trigger when the bubbles stopped.  Obviously solar charged batteries could have been used and this would have provided longer time between charging (as well as longer charging time).  But super capacitors just seem so much cooler.

Thanks for reading.  As always, comments and suggestions for improvement are appreciated.

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Top Comments

  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 7 years ago +6
    A magic project that only a grandpa can think up and bring to reality. I loved it. John
  • michaelkellett
    michaelkellett over 7 years ago in reply to drmikeg +6
    You'll get a slightly better performance if you use a schottcky diode in place of the 1N4148 MK
  • 14rhb
    14rhb over 7 years ago +5
    Hi Frank, A great project showing the fun to be had with electronics. Storing the solar energy to drive more powerful devices, albeit for a shorter duration, is definately cool. And when the sun isn't…
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  • drmikeg
    drmikeg over 7 years ago

    Amazing!
    I started a thread a while ago to ask if anyone could give me some pointers on doing just this!
    https://www.element14.com/community/thread/64034/l/convert-toy-motor-to-solar-power-where-to-begin

    Well, now I have more than just a few pointers!

    Best wishes and many thanks for sharing in such detail!

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  • fmilburn
    fmilburn over 7 years ago in reply to drmikeg

    drmikeg  wrote:

     

    Amazing!
    I started a thread a while ago to ask if anyone could give me some pointers on doing just this!
    Convert toy motor to Solar Power - where to begin?

    Well, now I have more than just a few pointers!

    Best wishes and many thanks for sharing in such detail!

    Hi Michael,

     

    I am glad you found it useful.  Good luck on your project!

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  • drmikeg
    drmikeg over 7 years ago in reply to fmilburn

    For toys that us fewer batteries (1x1.5v or 2x1 5v) how could you adapt this circuit to deliver the correct voltage?

     

    The capacitors are rated as 5.xV max, but I assume could operate at less?

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  • genebren
    genebren over 7 years ago in reply to drmikeg

    There are a few ways to go here.  You could find a lower voltage solar panel and use a lower voltage zener diode to keep the voltage in correct spot for the device.  Another approach is to use the same (or similar) solar panel and use a voltage regulator to reduce the voltage to the correct value.  If you use a voltage regulator, get one with an enable pin and use the enable to power up the toy when needed (or just put a switch between the super caps and the regulator.  This will limit the discharge of the supper caps while the toy is not in use.

     

    Gene

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  • fmilburn
    fmilburn over 7 years ago in reply to drmikeg

    I have used switching DC/DC buck converters successfully in the past as Gene describes and they are easy to use.  I used the Zener circuit above as I had the parts on hand and it was cheap and simple.

     

    Frank

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  • fmilburn
    fmilburn over 7 years ago in reply to drmikeg

    Hi Michael,

     

    I had a look at what I had on hand just now to give you an idea of how your project might be approached.  First, there is no problem using a super capacitor rated for 5.5 V at 3.3 V.  However, capacitors, even super capacitors, are not particularly energy dense in storage compared to batteries.  So you would be wasting storage capacity by not taking full advantage of the rated voltage.  One way to overcome this would be to store energy at higher voltage and then regulate down to say 3.3 V with a switching converter.  Note - the capacitor is not like a battery that holds its voltage fairly well as it depletes - voltage may drop quickly below what is acceptable for your application.  But let's assume you want to store at around 3 V.  This is what I have on hand:

    image

    The solar panel I have on hand is in the middle and we can see it is rated 3.6 V and 100 mA which is assumed the maximum power point in good light.  I would derate this significantly - like even 50% depending on the particular project.  If I was going to use the circuit I published above then a 3.3 V Zener (I happen to have IN4728A) and a Schottky diode as suggested by Michael Kellett above would be good since the voltage from the solar panel will be close to the desired storage voltage.  The parts are shown on the left - quick and easy.

     

    The alternate approach is to use DC/DC switching converters and I happen to have two types on hand as shown far right.  The upper one is a design from Pololu and they have a good selection for hobbyists at reasonable prices.  The one pictured has an enable pin.  Or you can use one of the many solutions available from Newark / Element14 such as the Recom R-78E series.  The one shown does not have an enable pin but you could use a switch as suggested by Gene or just accept that you will get leakage back through the solar panel in poor light.  There are many others available with all sorts of bells and whistles.

     

    These are not necessarily the parts I would use if I had a particular project in mind - just showing what I have on hand to give you an idea of the possibilities.  I normally breadboard things first to make sure they work.  If you would like to get feedback before ordering parts then a new post with circuit diagram and the parts you have in mind along with links on Element14 would be good.

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  • drmikeg
    drmikeg over 7 years ago in reply to fmilburn

    Frank, Gene

     

    Thanks for taking the time to reply.

     

    I'm now waiting from some components to arrive, and I need to have a rummage in my parts box.

     

    Once I've had a chance to work through your suggestions above, I'll add an update and possibly more questions.

     

    Many thanks

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  • drmikeg
    drmikeg over 7 years ago in reply to fmilburn

    Frank, Gene

     

    Thanks for taking the time to reply.

     

    I'm now waiting from some components to arrive, and I need to have a rummage in my parts box.

     

    Once I've had a chance to work through your suggestions above, I'll add an update and possibly more questions.

     

    Many thanks

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