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Hasbro Stormtrooper Voice Changer replacement mod

reezahl

Greetings everyone! Before I begin, let's just say that I am not really good with electrical and electronics stuff. I just pick things up along the way. Being an avid Star Wars fan, I got myself the Hasbro Stromtrooper Black Series helmet and decided to replace the existing voice changer which was pretty bad actually. I got inspired by YouTuber PITT FORCE FIVE who did something similiar for his Kylo Ren helmet and used the same third party Voice Changer I am using. The difference is that he was okay to install the on/off toggle switch within the helmet - to me that would be very inconvenient to have it turned on and off if I was say at a Comic Con or trooping.

 

Now, before I dived into this project, I hadn't planned on doing something so major...like just get the Voice Changer, tape the mic and strap on the unit in my belt and be done with it. No I had to take a leap of faith and rely on my rusty soldering skills which I have never used ever since I left Technical School. Anyway, I am now at the point where I have replaced the original helmet's 0.25W speaker and voice changer circuit board to the 0.5W speaker and circuit board from the Amazon Voice Changer.

 

I wanted to use back the original helmet's ON/OFF switch, but I am unsure how I need to connect the two leads from the helmet switch to the Voice Changer circuit board's toggle switch. I'm not confident in doing a clean removal of the circuit board's toggle switch, considering this is the first time I touched a soldering iron since I was 19!

 

Currently I soldered the helmet's switch leads (blue colour wires) to the last two leads on the circuit board which should be the "Stormtrooper voice". And point to note is the slider switch is set at the last position (position 3 which is the Stormtrooper voice). But now when I press once on the helmet switch, yes it will turn off the mic/board but after that I can't get it back on. I have to reset the slider switch on the circuit board instead to turn it back on. Is it even possible to leave the on-board slider switch (set it to the Stormy voice) and hook up the original helmet push-button switch to it? I would love to keep the functionality of the helmet's ON/OFF switch. Sorry but I really suck with electrical/electronics!

 

I hope someone can help me out as to where and exactly how I need to solder the original helmet switch leads to the circuit board, thank you in advance!

 

image

   The helmet on/off switch is at the bottom with the blue wires.

image

  A closer look of how I connected the helmet switch to the on-board slider switch's pins. Pretty sure this is definitely wrong!

 

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That's the Voice Changer's original slider switch [OFF-Voice1-Voice2-Voice3].

 

image

 

And here is a short video clip of it ---->

 

Well, I truly appreciate it if anyone could help me out or give suggestions!

  • 0

    Hi Rizal,

     

    Interesting voice changer : )

    The slider switch (with the positions for off, voice1, voice 2, voice 3) has two rows of contacts, and usually each row is independent of the other. So it is unlikely that the blue wires are correct, because the switch action wouldn't connect them from one row to the other.

     

    Anyway maybe you have a simpler solution, why not leave the slider in the correct position for the desired voice, and then wire the helmet switch in series with the battery box (in other words, use your switch to disconnect the red wire between the battery box and the circuit board. Before you do that, confirm it would work, by removing the blue wires (or turning off the helmet switch to isolate it), and then just remove and replace the AAA battery without changing the switch setting. If it successfully allows the device to turn on and off, then you can just wire the switch in series with the battery.

     

    By series this is what I mean:

    1. Unsolder the red wire from the battery holder

    2. Connect a blue wire (from the helmet switch) to the battery holder (where the red wire originally was)

    3. Connect the other blue wire (from the helmet switch) to the red wire that was unsoldered (wrap some tape around it afterwards to stop it accidentally shorting against anything).

  • 0 in reply to shabaz

    Hi shabaz,

     

    Wow! I had never thought of such a simple solution! I will give this a shot the minute I get home from dinner! Just to confirm, your suggestion should look something like this? Will try it out and update again! You rock man! Thanks a bundle!

     

    image

  • 0 in reply to reezahl

    Hi Rizal,

     

    That's right, exactly as your diagram shows. Good luck, let me know if it works out : )

    And no problem at all, it was nice to read a description that was so detailed with photos and diagrams and video, it helped a lot image

  • 0 in reply to shabaz

    Hi shabaz,

     

    Haha yeah I thought to myself, if I was going to ask for help, it will probably be better for me to come prepared.

     

    Thanks again!

     

     

    Regards,

     

    Rizal

  • 0 in reply to reezahl

    So I now have the original helmet switch working, BUT since it is a momentary switch, it will only work like a PTT (push-to-talk). You got to hold down the switch to talk. This is probably due to the original voice changer circuit design which has some sort of timer to keep the circuit closed before it automatically opens. A trip down the local electrical shop to get a maintained latching push-button will do the trick. Just have to find one small enough to fit it in. Thanks a bundle once more man!

  • 0 in reply to reezahl

    Ahh, I see, I didn't realize it was a momentary button. Yeah, easiest way is to replace the switch as you say!