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Gene Breniman's Blog Hand soldering a VQFN24 part to a PCB
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  • Author Author: genebren
  • Date Created: 16 Jul 2022 8:26 PM Date Created
  • Views 2529 views
  • Likes 13 likes
  • Comments 12 comments
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Hand soldering a VQFN24 part to a PCB

genebren
genebren
16 Jul 2022

The part shortages are really causing me to consider new parts and new packages as I struggle to find parts to support my current and future products.  One of that parts that has caught my eye are some new parts from Microchip (formerly Atmel), the ATTINY322x parts.  On a new design, I really was looking for as many pins as possible, so I choose the ATTINY3227, which comes in a VQFN24 package.  I have tried hand soldering VQFN parts in the past with no measure of luck, but I was compelled to give it another try.  I have seen some good videos on how to do this with hot air, but presently I do not own a hot air solder system (I have used one in the past with some good results, but this was primarily done for high pin count, leaded parts, TQ144).  As I rolling this idea around in my mind, I came up with a plan that seemed like it might work, so here is what I came up with.

My plan involved attempting to solder the exposed pad first, through the back of the board. To accomplish this I designed a VQFN-24 footprint in eagle, using a through-hole pad (0.045" hole with a 0.085" diameter exposed pad) for the exposed pad.  Here is the footprint for the device:

image

In order to hold the chip in place on the board while I solder the back side of the board, I decided to build a jig to hold the chip and the board in place.  So I opened up Fusion360 and using measurements from the PCB layout I came up with a design for the jig.  Here are the 3D design and the completed jig:

imageimage

Here is the jig loaded with first the chip and then the board:

imageimage

image

In the above image, the exposed pan of the chip is visible through the PCB through-hole, giving me a warm and fuzzy feeling that I have the PCB inserted into the fixture correctly. Prior to placing the PCB into the jig, I place flux on the exposed pad on the chip. After placing the PCB in the jig I applied some additional flux into the through-hole on the PCB.  I then used a fine tip on my soldering iron to apply copious amounts of solder into the through-hole, repeatedly inserting and removing the tip, until I was sure that solder made it down to the exposed pad on the chip.  I then removed the PCB, with the chip attached and flipped the PCB over and began solder the pin contacts.  I tilted the PCB in the board holder and zoomed in tightly to view the edges of the chip and the exposed pin pads.  I then applied solder to the chip and dragged the tip across the pins a coupe of times until there was visually a fillet at each pin with no visible shorts and/or solder blobs.  I repeated this for each face of the chip, until all of the pins were attached.  Here is an image (through the microscope eyepiece) of the chip, soldered into place:

image

There was an indication of a slight misalignment of some of the pins, but no obvious shorts (also the corners of the chip did not align well with the silkscreen markings).  I will need to do a quick shorts test (adjacent pins and to ground) with an ohm-meter (while under the microscope) and then add a few components so that I can power up the board.  I might then write a quick pin wiggle test, raising a single pin at a time high and checking that the pins are connected to the PCB, while also potentially exposing other pin short faults.  The good news, is that there are plenty of vias on the board, such that all but 2 of the used pins are attached to a via, allowing for some easier probing.  More on that later .....

Overall the approach was a huge success!  If I go much further with this product, I might alter the jig to align the board to the fixture by a couple of the through-holes on the board edges (connectors and guide pins) as the routed edges of the board are off a bit (leading the the slight misalignments mentioned above. (I am working on two versions of the PCB right now, one with the ATTINY3227 in a VQFN-28 and the other with a ATTINY3226 in a 20-SOIC 7.5mm wide package). Always good to have a backup plan given the challenge to my soldering skills and also as a hedge to potential part shortages.

More later....

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  • genebren
    genebren over 2 years ago in reply to DAB

    My eyes are not that great either.  Between eyeglasses and my stereo zoom microscope I see well enough to solder.  Where I really get in trouble is when I have to switch glasses (non- bifocal for the microscope to bifocal picking up tiny parts) back and forth, over and over.  Then my eyes really start to hurt and in get tough to focus on anything.

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  • DAB
    DAB over 2 years ago

    You are braver than I.

    My eyes are no longer good enough for this small stuff.

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  • genebren
    genebren over 2 years ago in reply to michaelkellett

    Interesting to hear other successful approaches to a similar problem.  I am thinking that getting a reflow oven maybe in my future.  If I continue to see more VQFN parts being added to my products, I will need better strategies to deal with them.

    Thanks for the great information!

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  • michaelkellett
    michaelkellett over 2 years ago

    I've often done it the other way round.

    Big hole in the middle for the centre pad. (1mm diameter or even more).

    Solder paste to the small pads ( applied with a needle if nothing better available.)

    Place the part, cente it on the pads by eye.

    Flow the solder paste, hot plate is best, frying pan is possible.

    With hotplate set it to reflow tempeerature, let it get stable and place the board on it. Rebove the board when the solder flows.

    With a frying pan you have no temperature control, so you need to warm slowly until the solder flows. Remove the board, the pan will go heating up.

    I used this method on quite a few parts until stencils from China got nearly free and bought a proper reflow oven.

    I found (cheap) hotplates more relaible than (cheap) hot air.

    Once the pads are soldered you can solder the centre pad through the hole (heating up with a soldering iron). Make sure there is heat relief on the cntre pad if it's connected to a power plane.

    If you put solder paste on the centre pad that can work too.

    If you apply the solder paste by needle or similar you'll usually end up with far too much and some pads will be shorted. Use lots of really runny flux and solder wick (braid) to remove excess solder.

    BIg holes in the centre pad work worse thermally but are useful for kitchen table processing because they allow you to check (with a very fine meter probe) that the underside of the chip is actually connected. I've had switching regulator chips not work because the centre pads were not soldering !

    (This can also happen with TQFPs with a big centre pad, if the pins are a bit bent the pad doesn't touch the board. I've resuced an expensive FPGA on a very expensive board by re-soldering the centre pad through the better-safe-than-sorry large centre via.

    MK

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  • maxpowerr
    maxpowerr over 2 years ago

    A good idea. An interesting way to mount the chip.

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