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John Wiltrout's Blog A Simple DC Electronic Load Episode II
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  • Author Author: jw0752
  • Date Created: 8 Oct 2018 5:45 AM Date Created
  • Views 1292 views
  • Likes 12 likes
  • Comments 9 comments
  • electronic_dc_load
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A Simple DC Electronic Load Episode II

jw0752
jw0752
8 Oct 2018

This is a second build of of a Simple DC Electronic Load project using information that I learned about curing Oscillations in a separate discussion:

https://www.element14.com/community/thread/64985?start=15&tstart=0

The knowledge that I received from other element 14 members as well as things that I learned from the bad decisions that I made on the first build made me want to give it another try. Here is the blog from the first build:

https://www.element14.com/community/people/jw0752/blog/2018/09/25/a-simple-dc-electronic-load-for-the-experimenters-shop//

 

This time I had a much more stable control circuit design:

 

image

Check out the first link above about curing oscillations for credit where it is due with my mentors.

 

There are three differences that have eliminated the oscillation problem over the entire voltage / current range for this Load. The first change was to put resistance R2 (4K7) between the sense resistor and the inverting input of the OPA192 instead of the previous direct connection. This allows the second improvement, a 200 pF capacitor at C2, to work properly and dampen any oscillations with negative feedback to the Op Amp. Resistor R3 was also lowered from 100R to 47R following another recommendation from a friend.

 

I wanted to improve the reference voltage stability so the zener diode used in the first design was changed to the use of a TL 431 which is a precision programmable reference. I hoped to improve temperature stability with this change so that the load would be stable without a warm up stabilization period.

 

The final addition to the build was the addition of simple polarity protection on the input. While the IRFZ 34 does have an internal protection diode I wanted to eliminate the chance that it would be damaged an accidental polarity reversal. My fix for this was to put a fuse in the circuit and a reverse biased 10 amp diode so that a fuse would blow if the polarity were to be reversed. I also have a red LED to indicate that the fuse has blown and that the input is reversed. I had experimented with the idea of using a forward biased diode in series with the input but this had an effect on how the unit handled lower input voltages. There are always side effects and compromises become choices that have to be made.

 

This time I wanted to put the power supply and the control circuitry on the same board. I am using a small AdaFruit protoboard. With good fortune I found that I had duplicates of the heat sink, enclosure, transformer, and ammeter. This build will use an OPA 192 rail to rail op amp as recommended. Here is the finished control and power supply module:

 

image

One of the things that I learned from the previous build and problems with oscillations was that I did not want to hard wire the control module into the enclosure. It makes it too difficult to service or make modifications. Therefore Micro JST plugs and jacks were used as well as a molex connector for the mains connection to the transformer. I don't anticipate any problems needing modification but that was how I felt last time too and it was a real challenge to work on the hard wired circuit board in the first unit.

 

I was happy with the front panel layout of the first unit so it was duplicated on this unit. The only change was the lowering of the power LED to accommodate a reverse polarity warning LED. Here is a picture of the front panel:

 

image

 

Since it is fun to look at pictures here are a few of the process of the build:

 

   imageimage

 

   imageimage

 

The last two pictures illustrate that I do not bundle the wires until after all preliminary tests are completed. This saves time not to mention nylon straps which must be cut if a problem is noted. In the picture on the right the wires have been bundled. I try to plan for bundling and carefully measure wires and plan their final route even though I do not actually route them until the testing is done. This enclosure is particularly nice as the air vent holes provide excellent tie down ability by looping a small nylon strap through the holes and around wires.

 

This unit turned out very stable and much more to my liking than the first. Subsequently I have gone back to the first unit and made the modifications necessary to have it work as well as the second unit.

 

John

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Top Comments

  • dougw
    dougw over 6 years ago +7
    Well done John. I think you should enter your projects in Project 14. If they don't have the right category, suggest one...
  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 6 years ago in reply to fmilburn +6
    Hi Frank, I am afraid there wasn't much engineering that went into my choice. Since the unit is designed to go up to 2 Amps I put in an AGC 2A quick acting. If I find I am blowing it when I use the unit…
  • luislabmo
    luislabmo over 6 years ago in reply to fmilburn +5
    JST connectors are awesome (I mostly use PH and XH for battery connections), having a connector that can only be connected in one way is really handy sometimes. Luis
  • fmilburn
    fmilburn over 6 years ago in reply to jw0752

    Ah... it is on the rear panel.  I looked at the photos and missed it.

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 6 years ago in reply to fmilburn

    Hi Frank,

     

    I see no reason why the PPTC resettable will not work. It is new technology and I am slow to think of new when I am building so I immediately think of the older style fuse. The case that I built the load into had holes already drilled for a rear panel mounted fuse holder so that was the way I went. I look forward to your build to see what you think. I have another larger 6 A 35 Volt load that I built and a cheap dual 80 Volt 15 A 300W commercial load but the one that I use 90% of the time is the 55 V 2A one that you are thinking of building.

     

    John

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  • fmilburn
    fmilburn over 6 years ago in reply to jw0752

    Thanks John,

     

    There is an old guy just like that who hangs around my place :-).  What do you think about a PPTC resettable fuse like this?  The device in mind only need about 1 A but the design would be good for 2 A.  The fuse linked above will "hold" 1 A and trip at 1.8 A. I presume that the AGC quick acting has the advantage of allowing one to operate closer to the max design point.  The PPTC has the advantage that fuses don't need to be replaced.   It seems simple enough but it never hurts to ask....

     

    Frank

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 6 years ago in reply to fmilburn

    Hi Frank,

     

    I am afraid there wasn't much engineering that went into my choice. Since the unit is designed to go up to 2 Amps I put in an AGC 2A quick acting. If I find I am blowing it when I use the unit at or near 2000 mA I will just up it to 2.5 A. The real reason it is there is more for the chance (quite possible) that the old guy in my shop will have a senior moment and hook the input up reverse polarity. Then the polarity protection diode should take out the fuse fairly rapidly and will keep the damage localized to the fuse.

     

    John

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  • fmilburn
    fmilburn over 6 years ago

    Hi John,

     

    I have the parts to make something similar and it is inching up on my projects to do list.  One question though:  What kind of fuse are you using (F1 2A)?  Your thoughts on what to use and how to select are appreciated.

     

    Frank

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