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Nico teWinkel's Blog Ender 3 Pro Broken Extruder Arm
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  • Author Author: ntewinkel
  • Date Created: 4 Nov 2022 12:23 AM Date Created
  • Views 11015 views
  • Likes 12 likes
  • Comments 9 comments
  • Creality
  • under extrusion
  • Ender 3-Pro
  • upgrade
  • extruder
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Ender 3 Pro Broken Extruder Arm

ntewinkel
ntewinkel
4 Nov 2022
Ender 3 Pro Broken Extruder Arm

As I might have mentioned in my previous blog post about 3D printing, I was having trouble getting my prints to come out half decently, especially with my newer filaments.
I think I mentioned having extruder problems - the print lines were often a bit thin. Some suggested a clogged nozzle, so I cleaned it, but that didn't help.

I watched a few videos on the subject, and took the advice to start by printing some heat towers to determine what the best nozzle heat setting is for each filament. Maybe temperature was the issue.

3d printer temperature testing


Here is the result of the gold, wood, and black Multicomp filaments from my printer:

heat tower 3d print tests

The wood coloured filament came out quite nice, though it had some stringing. But the gold and black came out rather weak, and the towers fall apart easy. You can tell in the picture that the gold one has imperfections at pretty much every temperature. The black one was the same way.
All of them had stringing in the open areas, which I thought was due to retraction settings. The black tower was nice in that the very top of it gave me positive feedback that the temperatures did change over the tower! Laughing  that top setting is the coolest, and a fair bit lower than the recommended temperature for that filament. I also checked the display as it was printing, of course.

Then at one point I came across a video where they mentioned that the Ender 3 extruder has a weakness in its design - the plastic lever part can crack.

So at this point I thought I may as well try a few upgrades - I bought a set of nozzles and a new metal extruder from Creality, for about $20 US total. Not a big investment for what I hoped might make for a bit better results. I heard the metal extruder would be a bit more grippy. At least it would likely last longer than the plastic. And with these nozzles I would be sure of the size of nozzle I was using - the one that was in there didn't seem to be marked. I assumed it was the standard 0.4mm but I had nothing to compare it to.

Ender 3 upgrades

Installing the nozzle and the new extruder was quick and easy. The printer came with the tools, and thankfully I still knew where I had put them!

Ender 3 upgraded extruder

And it looks pretty, so there's that.

After I installed it, I thought I'd give the old plastic extruder arm a quick look - that video I had watched mentioned they sometimes get hairline cracks that can affect its ability to grip and extrude filament properly.

Ender 3 broken extruder arm

Well Theeeeeere's Yer Problem!!

That sucker is VERY cracked! The funny thing is, that this wasn't noticeable from above. Or maybe it was if I had looked much more closely. Shrug

So I think... I hope! that this was the issue with my printer.
It makes sense - the white and wood filaments have a matte surface, which would be easier to grip, and would therefore give better results. The black and gold filaments are shiny and more slippery - those would definitely be much more likely to slip in a loose extruder. The slower more detailed layer heights would also extrude more slowly, which would be less likely to slip. This gives me hope!

So I think I'll try printing that little black cube again, to see if it comes out any better.

The heat test towers take like 3 hours to print, but I'll have to run those again to get a better feel of which temperature to choose - these firsts ones are too messy to be sure.
I see I can just stop the print early though - no point in printing the low temperature top end that's a definite mess!

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Top Comments

  • ntewinkel
    ntewinkel over 2 years ago +1
    Here is a before and after (replacing the broken extruder), of the black Multicomp PLA I was struggling with. This new PLA was the reason I started my step by step "debugging" of my 3D printing issues…
  • ntewinkel
    ntewinkel over 2 years ago

    Successful cat print with the gold filament too Slight smile

    gold cat

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  • rsjawale24
    rsjawale24 over 2 years ago in reply to ntewinkel

    I have an Ender 3 V2. The extruder arm is same as yours so I should check it.
    Thanks for the tips! I'll check mine as soon as I'm home. 

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  • ntewinkel
    ntewinkel over 2 years ago in reply to rsjawale24

    rsjawale24 , is yours an Ender 3 as well? I'm curious to know if this is a common issue!

    Looking at it again, I think that little guide wheel fully covers the cracked area. It's pretty easy to remove though - just use some pliers to compress and remove the spring, and then undo the one screw at the pivot corner.

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  • ntewinkel
    ntewinkel over 2 years ago in reply to dougw

    Right? If I had not decided to change that extruder, somewhat on a whim, partly on a hunch, I might have just chalked it up to the Ender 3 being a low-end cheap machine, and telling others to avoid it, while saving up for a better machine.

    Seems risky for the company to take that chance - the upgrade kit was inexpensive, so you'd think even just having that at-risk lever be metal from the start wouldn't cost much extra, but would make the product that much more reliable.

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  • rsjawale24
    rsjawale24 over 2 years ago in reply to ntewinkel

    I'm using the eSun PLA+ filaments. If I go anything above 200deg C, I get heavy stringing in my prints. Anything less than 190 also gives bad quality prints. I think it's time to check my extruder arm

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