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Blog An Arduino/Raspberry Pi Based Wireless Light Harness
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  • Author Author: screamingtiger
  • Date Created: 11 Jun 2015 1:17 PM Date Created
  • Views 7895 views
  • Likes 3 likes
  • Comments 76 comments
  • wirless_trailer
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An Arduino/Raspberry Pi Based Wireless Light Harness

screamingtiger
screamingtiger
11 Jun 2015

I am going do this small side project as a way to take a break from my main project.  For a basic introduction please see my original blog post at http://www.element14.com/community/people/screamingtiger/blog/2015/04/20/a-small-project-idea--wireless-trailer-lighting-control

 

If anyone has concerns about my project, please post them in that thread.  I have changed the design slightly after doing  some research and testing.  I am also going to have a control panel in the car with me so I can monitor things as well as manually test the lights.

 

The car has running lights, brake lights, and turn signals all on separate channels.  However the trailer lights only have 2 channels as the running lights also function as turn signals. My initial analysis was incorrect that the running lights also function as brake lights.

 

First a tentative parts list and then I will explain.

2X Arduino mini pros 16mhz boot loader

1X Raspberry Pi model B

1X 2.5" TFT touchscreen LCD

1X 4 channel mechanical relay

6X AMS1117 SO-223 5V regulators

3X NRF24L01+ wireless transceivers

1X 1.5 watt solar charger

3X enclosures

1X 20,000mAh (20Ah) 12V lead acid battery

1X hobbyking 5V/5A regulator

1X 1000 mAh 2s LIPO

 

Explanation of parts :

There are 3 units involved. We have the unit that reads the car's lights, the unit that controls the trailer lights, and the unit that acts as a control panel.  All 3 are connected via the wireless adapters.

 

2X Arduino mini pros 16mhz boot loader

These will be used for the units that read the lights and control the trailer lights.  I have some of these on hand is why I went with them and the small footprint will allow me to tuck it away nicely.

 

1X Raspberry Pi model B and 1X 2.5" TFT touchscreen LCD

This will function as the main control panel with a simple interface.  The Pi attaches easily to the LCD which is why I chose this route.  Its way overkill but I feel it will be useful for other projects that also need a remote or control panel.  The control panel will allow monitoring as well as manual control of the lights for testing.

 

1X 4 channel mechanical relay

The stock lights on my trailer pull 2A for the brakes lights per side, and 500 mA per side for the running lights.  Originally I was going to use a mosfet but I see no reason with this high of current.  The brake lights will be turned on at the same time so the relay will see 4A.  However the running lights will be on separate channels as they also function as blinkers.  The 4th channel I may use to turn on internal lights in the trailer remotely.

 

6X AMS1117 SO-223 5V regulators

These small regulators will be used to power the Arduinos off of the main 12V sources which come from the vehicle as well as the 12V battery in the trailer.  They are also used to read the  vehicle lights.  My plan is to splice into the lines of each light the same way I did before when installing an off the shelf light controller.  The lights will be routed to the 5v regulators which then step down the voltages to 5V for reading via the GPIO pins on the Arduino.  I will need 4 regulators to read the lights.  1 for the brake lights, 1 for the running lights, and 1 each for each turn signal.

 

3X NRF24L01+ wireless transceivers

These 2.4ghz transceivers are similar to an I2C connection and a serial connection combined.  Each one has an ID and you can broadcast information. I will have a small protocol in place for error correction as well as some minor tamper proofing.  I don't want a rogue 2.4ghz signal to be able to mess with my lights.  I will be using a command set that requires a sequence of bytes in order to validate commands.

 

1X 1.5 watt solar charger

These can be had from Harbor Freight and low cost.  I decided that the trailer might as well be "green" and charge its own battery.  Besides its just another thing for me to forget to do.

 

The rest of the items are self explanatory and used to house the items and power the Pi.

 

I may choose to get some LED based trailer lights, but I am going to stick with the stock trailer lights for now until I have a working project.

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Top Comments

  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to screamingtiger +3
    Joey Did you remove the jumper .. JD-VCC to VCC ? You apply the 12v to JD-VCC NOT THE VCC PIN The 5v on the VCC pin is to power the Optocouplers ... Also note that these turn on with a LOW so you need…
  • Robert Peter Oakes
    Robert Peter Oakes over 11 years ago in reply to screamingtiger +2
    80mA for Arduino and 1A for lights adds up to 1.08Amps, not 1.8. This would provide a much longer life time (18.5 Hrs) so even with brakes you should easily get 10-12 Hr (Unless you're a heavy breaker…
  • clem57
    clem57 over 11 years ago +2
    Totally amazed is the word today. Plus a tropical depression has taken over here. LOL
  • screamingtiger
    screamingtiger over 11 years ago

    Been messing around with the RF24 library and not having much luck yet.  The problem with this library is that I can not even have the wireless device hooked up and it will think it is sending things or receiving things at times!  it doesn't seem to have good error handling and there is no way to test if the device is present and working.  I may have an old version I will check it out and have to go through the code.  It is just using SPI to communicate with the device.

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  • screamingtiger
    screamingtiger over 11 years ago

    Please see my related poll to this project, I need your input!!

     

    http://www.element14.com/community/polls/2131

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  • screamingtiger
    screamingtiger over 11 years ago in reply to mcb1

    I'll go see what they have at the hardware store.  I think if this works out I may draw up a PCB and have it made to keep things neater.  Not a big fan of globs of solder to connect mounting pads.  I'm also new to this so I am not very skilled with these yet.

     

    So I may not get too fancy with the enclosure yet.  One of my favorite ways for wires coming out is to use hot glue or silicon and fill I the hole around the wires.  A bit messy if I need to take something apart but very effective.

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  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to screamingtiger

    The electrical supply boxes are usually waterproof, and inexpensive.

    Most have a simple retained screw as well.

     

    Try to get some compression glands that will make sealing the cable entry easier.

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  • screamingtiger
    screamingtiger over 11 years ago

    One thing I forgot is I ned enclosure boxes, guess I'll head over the old readio shack and buy some ugly over priced ones.  Or I guess I could make some out of basswood.

     

    I really need a 3d printer!

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