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Ultrazed Hardware Design Ultrazed IOCC Won't Power On Fully
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Related

Ultrazed IOCC Won't Power On Fully

jjjjcol
jjjjcol over 3 years ago

I have an IOCC that just stopped working correctly.  The fan no longer powers on, and most of the VMON signals are 0v.

The power brick is only outputting around 7V while I assume its supposed to be 12v.

The power brick is PN te60a1251f01, but this doesn't seem to be in stock anywhere.  Is there an alternate replacement?

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  • jafoste4
    jafoste4 over 3 years ago +1
    Hi jjjjcol, Please try reseating the SOM onto the carrier card to start. Make sure it seats all the way in the connectors. Thanks, Josh
  • jjjjcol
    jjjjcol over 3 years ago in reply to jafoste4 +1
    I tried that, no difference. Still no fan, power brick ~7V, most VMON signals are 0v.
  • ctammann
    ctammann over 3 years ago in reply to jjjjcol +1
    Can you try measuring the output of the brick when not plugged into the board? I'd be curious to see if the supply operates correctly without a load. You could also measure the impedance of all output…
  • jafoste4
    jafoste4 over 3 years ago

    Hi jjjjcol,

    Please try reseating the SOM onto the carrier card to start. Make sure it seats all the way in the connectors.

    Thanks,

    Josh

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  • jjjjcol
    jjjjcol over 3 years ago in reply to jafoste4

    I tried that, no difference.

    Still no fan, power brick ~7V, most VMON signals are 0v.

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  • ctammann
    ctammann over 3 years ago in reply to jjjjcol

    Can you try measuring the output of the brick when not plugged into the board? I'd be curious to see if the supply operates correctly without a load. You could also measure the impedance of all output rails to ground on the carrier to see if there is a short. Along those lines powering the carrier without the SOM attached could help narrow things down.

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  • jjjjcol
    jjjjcol over 3 years ago in reply to ctammann

    The power brick is 7.7V even when not connected to the IOCC.

    With the SOM disconnected from the IOCC the results are the same (VMON is missing 3.3V and 5V, and more).

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  • ctammann
    ctammann over 3 years ago in reply to jjjjcol

    How comfortable are you "hacking" up that supply? The only thing special about it is the connector. If you are comfortable doing so, you should be able to buy a 12V output, minimum 60W supply, cut the end off of it, cut the wire off your current supply and splice the original cable to the new supply. There are a bunch of low cost options out there for 12V 60W+. Just make sure you splice the right wires and that would be your easiest lowest cost option. The other option would be to look for higher power versions that have the same pinout header. There are some secondary market supplies available from WEC starting at $50 from my quick searching

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  • jjjjcol
    jjjjcol over 3 years ago in reply to ctammann

    Yeah I can.  I just ordered one for $12, we'll see 

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  • ctammann
    ctammann over 3 years ago in reply to jjjjcol

    That's what I would have done too. Keep me posted and let me know how it works out. From a spec standpoint I don't foresee any reason it shouldn't

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  • jjjjcol
    jjjjcol over 3 years ago in reply to ctammann

    So, 3.3V_PRI still works, which makes sense because its just an LDO directly from the input.

    3.3V and 5V don't work, and they're powered by the power management chip IRPS5401MTRPBF.  The datasheet for that says it should work down to 5V.

    I get that there is something wrong with the power brick (probably), but I'm not really sure why its still not working.

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  • jjjjcol
    jjjjcol over 3 years ago in reply to jjjjcol

    Looking some more, it seems that SOM_PG_OUT isn't on (the PG MODULE LED is not lit), and it looks like this signal controls some enable pins on the IOCC's PMIC.

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  • ctammann
    ctammann over 3 years ago in reply to jjjjcol

    My primary assumption is that because the AC/DC supply is not regulating properly that it can't provide enough current to start the board. Specifically for the PMIC on the carrier, the VIN minimum is set to 11V in firmware so it won't turn on regardless at 7V. On the SOM itself again I assume that the converter can't provide enough current for the board to start. If you have a scope you could look at that VIN and see if it looks like the board is even trying to start up.

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