Led applique murale 230v

Here is a more detailed approach that might help you evaluate your LED choice and design the board more effectively:

Designing a Compact LED Wall Light Module (230 VAC → LED Board)

When designing a compact wall light fed directly from 230 VAC, the main challenge is how to combine
strong illumination with very limited space for electronics. In such situations, the best approach is often
to separate the driver from the LED board.

LED Package Choice

Using 5050 LEDs is possible, but they are not the most efficient option today. They tend to generate
more heat per unit area and are less effective in terms of lm/W compared to modern packages. A better
alternative is to select 2835 or 3030 LEDs. These provide better luminous efficacy, improved thermal
handling thanks to their pad design, and are widely available in different flux bins and CRI ratings.

Current Driver Placement

Placing a complete current-controlled driver outside the 3D mechanical housing is usually the cleanest
solution. Inside the fixture, you then only need a minimal PCB with the LEDs themselves and basic
protections. This approach makes thermal design easier, reduces the risk of overheating, and allows the
use of standard drivers without being limited by the internal geometry of the luminaire.

Voltage and Current Considerations

The way you wire the LEDs directly influences the driver selection:

• One single series chain: all LEDs in series ensure perfect current sharing, but the forward
  voltage adds up. You must check that the driver can provide the required voltage at the chosen current.

• Two independent chains: each with its own current regulation or balancing resistors. This keeps
  the voltage lower and may help with safety considerations, but adds a bit of complexity.

Before fixing the topology, calculate the total forward voltage and required current, and then confirm that the
chosen driver matches that range.

PCB and Thermal Design

• Use aluminum-based MCPCB to spread heat effectively.

• Mount the board with thermal paste or pads to the metallic body of the luminaire, letting the
  housing act as a heatsink.

• Space the LEDs evenly to avoid hot spots.

• Keep good ground and power planes, and ensure traces are wide enough for the current you
  intend to drive.

Thermal performance is critical: LEDs may survive at higher junction temperatures, but their lifetime and
luminous maintenance drop sharply if the heat is not managed well.

Protections on the LED Board

Depending on the budget and expected lifetime, you can add more or fewer protective components:

• TVS diodes if cable runs are long and susceptible to transients.

• Balancing resistors if you use parallel chains.

• Reverse polarity or transient diode to avoid accidental damage.

• Small fuse in series to protect against catastrophic failure.

• Optional shunt diode or LED protector per LED to keep the chain alive if one LED fails open.

Power Quality at Low Wattages

For low-power lighting, don’t forget to check power factor and harmonics requirements if they
apply to your region or to the type of project. Some markets require a minimum power factor above
a certain wattage, even for LED luminaires. Ensuring your chosen driver already meets those
requirements saves headaches later.

Closing Thoughts

In summary, the practical approach is:

• Choose efficient LED packages such as 2835 or 3030.

• Keep the driver external, leaving only a slim LED board inside.

• Pay attention to voltage/current ranges when deciding series or parallel wiring.

• Use MCPCB with proper thermal coupling to the luminaire body.

• Add protections in line with the durability and reliability targets of your project, including
  optional shunt protection per LED.

• Remember power quality considerations if relevant.

This strategy balances performance, reliability, and manufacturability while giving you freedom to
design a compact mechanical housing without compromising the electrical side.

Résumé en français

Dans ce projet, on sépare le driver LED de la carte LED. Le driver est à l’extérieur et la carte à l’intérieur
est très simple, avec seulement les LED et quelques protections. Les LED 2835 ou 3030 sont mieux que
les 5050 parce qu’elles donnent plus de lumière et chauffent moins. Il faut bien faire le routage, utiliser
une plaque MCPCB pour enlever la chaleur, et ajouter des protections (fusible, TVS, ou shunt pour chaque LED).

Here is a more detailed approach that might help you evaluate your LED choice and design the board more effectively:

Designing a Compact LED Wall Light Module (230 VAC → LED Board)

When designing a compact wall light fed directly from 230 VAC, the main challenge is how to combine
strong illumination with very limited space for electronics. In such situations, the best approach is often
to separate the driver from the LED board.

LED Package Choice

Using 5050 LEDs is possible, but they are not the most efficient option today. They tend to generate
more heat per unit area and are less effective in terms of lm/W compared to modern packages. A better
alternative is to select 2835 or 3030 LEDs. These provide better luminous efficacy, improved thermal
handling thanks to their pad design, and are widely available in different flux bins and CRI ratings.

Current Driver Placement

Placing a complete current-controlled driver outside the 3D mechanical housing is usually the cleanest
solution. Inside the fixture, you then only need a minimal PCB with the LEDs themselves and basic
protections. This approach makes thermal design easier, reduces the risk of overheating, and allows the
use of standard drivers without being limited by the internal geometry of the luminaire.

Voltage and Current Considerations

The way you wire the LEDs directly influences the driver selection:

• One single series chain: all LEDs in series ensure perfect current sharing, but the forward
  voltage adds up. You must check that the driver can provide the required voltage at the chosen current.

• Two independent chains: each with its own current regulation or balancing resistors. This keeps
  the voltage lower and may help with safety considerations, but adds a bit of complexity.

Before fixing the topology, calculate the total forward voltage and required current, and then confirm that the
chosen driver matches that range.

PCB and Thermal Design

• Use aluminum-based MCPCB to spread heat effectively.

• Mount the board with thermal paste or pads to the metallic body of the luminaire, letting the
  housing act as a heatsink.

• Space the LEDs evenly to avoid hot spots.

• Keep good ground and power planes, and ensure traces are wide enough for the current you
  intend to drive.

Thermal performance is critical: LEDs may survive at higher junction temperatures, but their lifetime and
luminous maintenance drop sharply if the heat is not managed well.

Protections on the LED Board

Depending on the budget and expected lifetime, you can add more or fewer protective components:

• TVS diodes if cable runs are long and susceptible to transients.

• Balancing resistors if you use parallel chains.

• Reverse polarity or transient diode to avoid accidental damage.

• Small fuse in series to protect against catastrophic failure.

• Optional shunt diode or LED protector per LED to keep the chain alive if one LED fails open.

Power Quality at Low Wattages

For low-power lighting, don’t forget to check power factor and harmonics requirements if they
apply to your region or to the type of project. Some markets require a minimum power factor above
a certain wattage, even for LED luminaires. Ensuring your chosen driver already meets those
requirements saves headaches later.

Closing Thoughts

In summary, the practical approach is:

• Choose efficient LED packages such as 2835 or 3030.

• Keep the driver external, leaving only a slim LED board inside.

• Pay attention to voltage/current ranges when deciding series or parallel wiring.

• Use MCPCB with proper thermal coupling to the luminaire body.

• Add protections in line with the durability and reliability targets of your project, including
  optional shunt protection per LED.

• Remember power quality considerations if relevant.

This strategy balances performance, reliability, and manufacturability while giving you freedom to
design a compact mechanical housing without compromising the electrical side.

Résumé en français

Dans ce projet, on sépare le driver LED de la carte LED. Le driver est à l’extérieur et la carte à l’intérieur
est très simple, avec seulement les LED et quelques protections. Les LED 2835 ou 3030 sont mieux que
les 5050 parce qu’elles donnent plus de lumière et chauffent moins. Il faut bien faire le routage, utiliser
une plaque MCPCB pour enlever la chaleur, et ajouter des protections (fusible, TVS, ou shunt pour chaque LED).

Bonjour,Angel, merci pour ces informations. Je vais donc me diriger vers ces Led. Je ne souhaite pas avoir de driver séparé. Je pensais mettre un pont de diode, résistances, condensateurs, ..