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It works!

johnbeetem
johnbeetem over 13 years ago

I got my RasPi today!  It works pretty well, and I did not have much trouble bringing it up.  Since I've been watching and commenting here at element14 and in the raspberrypi.org Troubleshooting section for some time, let's see how my RasPi compares to her sisters:

 

1.  Before plugging my RasPi in, I checked the resistance of the polyfuses to see if they will deteriorate over time.  I don't have a proper low resistance meter which nulls out lead resistance, so these are approximate.  The main power fuse F3 was less than 0.2 Ohm.  The two USB fuses F1 and F2 were 2.0 - 2.2 Ohm.  I don't care about them, because I'll be using a powered hub.

 

2.  I'm using a powered USB hub to provide power to RasPi.  My power supply is based on a Linear Tech demo board and gives very reliable 5V which powers my USB hub.  The resistance from power supply GND to RasPi TP2 is less than 0.1 Ohm.  However, the resistance from power supply +5V to RasPi TP1 seem to be at least 0.5 Ohm.  My micro USB cable obviously has better GND conduction (probably a foil shield) than +5V conduction (1 meter of 28 AWG).  I think the +5V resistance is pretty well shared by the micro USB cable and F3.

 

3.  The procedure described at raspberrypi.org and the RasPi wiki for downloading Debian and copying the image to an SD card (GNU/Linux command line) worked perfectly.  It took a while to download 443 MB from the mirror and to copy the uncompressed 2 GB to a Class 4 SanDisk microSD card, but there were no problems.

 

4.  RasPi booted the first time (wow!), in spite of some power supply problems.  My power supply produces +5V from whatever 9V-12V wall wart I have handy.  The first one I used did not provide enough current for RasPi (it works quite well for BeagleBoard thank you very much) and this caused my monitor to be unstable, occasionally blanking out and showing green "static".  I switched to a more powerful wall wart and RasPi booted perfectly with no display problems.

 

5.  My particular RasPi seems to work with surprisingly low voltage.  When I get the login prompt my TP1-TP2 voltage is just 4.65V.  When I start up X Windows it drops to 4.60V.  I guess my peripherals don't need anything like the USB 4.75V minimum.  I'm using a NEC DVI-D monitor which didn't require any config.txt options, along with Logitech wired keyboard and mouse.  I'm guessing that these are all 3.3V devices and having 4.60V HDMI and USB voltages doesn't faze them.  The monitor is actually connected through a cheap "HDMI Switcher".

 

6.  I tried Midori and connected to raspberrypi.org to announce success.  Ethernet came up and automatically congfigured to my router just fine.  However, Midori did not run well -- normally consuming all compute time -- so I gave up.  I'm going to see if assigning the Level 2 cache to the ARM CPU helps.  GUI-based terminals and text editor were responsive and I had no problem writing and compiling "Hello, World" except that I need to set my keyboard to USA if I want to type any punctuation.

 

7.  My RasPi gets quite warm.  I wouldn't say blazing hot -- I can leave my finger tip on the SoC and LAN chip for several seconds.  The back of the board gets very warm.  I'm thinking of adding heat sinks and a thermal pad, but first I'm going to try mounting RasPi vertically so that air can flow past both sides.  I'm concerned that the high temperature will cause F3 resistance to increase, lowering my 4.65V down to something that makes the board fail.  This might be the cause of some of the "RasPi works for a while and then stops" posts we've seen in the Troubleshooting section.  I'm planning to put a low-resistance non-resettable fuse in parallel with F3 to prevent F3 problems.  This should get my 4.65V up to 4.8V, which is plenty.  If 5V0 gets too high, RG2 has to work harder and that makes the board hotter.  So I think keeping my present USB cable may actually help things.

 

8.  Yay, Debian already includes libXft.so!  That's the only unusual library I need to port my software.

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  • rew
    rew over 13 years ago in reply to morgaine

    Morgaine, I just did the "finger switching" test again as I suggested. :-)

     

    It seems my LAN chip is a bit hotter than I remember. I too can't get much beyond 5sec wtihout hurting my finger. It could also be that the outside temperature is now 25 degrees, while before it may only have been 20 degrees.

     

    The "can't keep finger on" temperature is pretty much 52 degrees C. No matter who you are or if you say you have fire resistant fingers.

     

    If the outside temperature rises, more heat will need to flow through your finger (less is being diverted by the PCB), and the hotter it gets. Even a 2 degree change might mean two out of two people now report unable to hold beyond 5 sec, while before it was "possible to hold indefinitively"

     

    If you look at the datasheet, on page 41, it says you can expect a typical power use of about 763 mW.

    http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Sheets/9512.pdf

    I don't pretend to be able to estimate the power-use within  a factor of two, so when I say "about 1W", this is certainly within range.

     

    Regretably the thermal resistance isn't specified. The Texas instruments VCA8500 provides a "typical" value (i.e. a wild guess that it might apply to the lan9512), of 22 degrees / W. At 0.7W, that would mean only about 40 degrees C. We're seeing more than that.

     

    But if the wild guess is off-by-a-factor-of-two, and it's 40 degrees/C for teh lan9512, then 60 degrees sounds like a possible value.

     

    With the case at around sixty degrees, the inside will be only about 80 degrees. This is well below the maximum of 150 degrees.

     

    Chips are built to work at these temperatures. Sure, I too have heard about some chips working themselves loose from thermal stresses. Before you complain to Farnell, the RPF or me, please wait until you KNOW it will fail because it HAS failed.

     

    Some chips use a bit of power, and therefore they dissipate heat. That heat needs to be carried away and a temperature gradient is required before heat starts moving. This is simply the way things work.

     

    Now usually these things are hidden inside a case. So you don't get to poke your fingers at it. The 'pi is open, As a learining experience YOU get to poke your fingers at it. Have you learned something today? That's the stated primary goal for the RPF.

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  • morgaine
    morgaine over 13 years ago in reply to rew

    Roger Wolff wrote:

     

    Chips are built to work at these temperatures. Sure, I too have heard about some chips working themselves loose from thermal stresses. Before you complain to Farnell, the RPF or me, please wait until you KNOW it will fail because it HAS failed.

     

    This is a technical site.  Questions and discussion are welcomed by Element 14, on both technical and product matters, and your suggested "wait until you KNOW it will fail" is not really helpful advice at all in an engineering community.

     

    We can do a lot better than that, understand what is going on, and determine whether the board is being operated outside of its thermal spec (it's not device survival that's the worry, but the board/joints).  According to Gert, such LAN9512 temperatures were not expected at design time.

     

    The board isn't failing yet, but if it wasn't designed for these thermal stresses then it won't survive them for long.  Element 14's input really ought to be sought regarding what we should do.  I  don't want my board failing on the day after warranty expires when the solder joints finally decide that they've suffered thermal movement long enough, and it's not in the manufacturer's interests for that to happen either.

     

    And once they're in stock and I want to buy several Pi, I need to know that this common operating condition is within board spec before ordering.  (Model A is looking very attractive, the absence of LAN9512 making it more so.)

     

    Morgaine.

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  • jamodio
    jamodio over 13 years ago in reply to morgaine

    I got some of these from SparkFun ...

     

    http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10746

     

    and waiting for these to try on the SoC ...

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120820119736&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160#ht_500wt_1180

     

    -J

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  • morgaine
    morgaine over 13 years ago in reply to jamodio

    Adding a heatsink is certainly an option, but if it's required for board longevity then the heatsink should be part of the board design.

     

    I have no shortage of small heatsinks here, but at this stage it's more a matter of establishing the principle with Element 14.  If they accept that it may be a good idea to add your own heatsink pending review of the situation with board designers, then they may want to advise accordingly since it could affect product warranty.

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  • jamodio
    jamodio over 13 years ago in reply to morgaine

    Agreed.

     

    Also if by any chance, as reported before, due the wrong connection of the LAN9512 VDDCORE pin to the 1V8 rail the GPU is drawing some current from the internal regulator on that chip, it will surelly get hotter than normal.

     

    Ethernet PHY's tend to run warm to hot, but this one seems to be slightly above of what I've seen before.

     

    -J

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  • rew
    rew over 13 years ago in reply to morgaine

    Really, the chip is using a significant portion of a watt. On a 9mm x 9mm chip that's going to make it feel hot to the touch.

    Once I have my "spare" pi, i'll see if I can find that 1.8V line and cut it.....

     

    All measurements so far have indicated a significant powerdraw on the 3.3V line, and that mostly goes to the lan9512. And from there, it can't go anywhere but turn into heat.

     

    There is a post on hackaday.com with someone who has added a heatsink to his 'pi.

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  • jamodio
    jamodio over 13 years ago in reply to rew

    That would be something hard to do given that it is two not contiguous pins that probably go to the power plane and you still need to keep the connection to the decoupling capacitors required for the LAN9512.

     

    Unfortunatelly (once again the veil of secrecy) the Gerbers for the board layout are not publically available so it is difficult to tell by just looking at the two pictures of the boards without components how those traces are routed, that btw as far as I can tell are improperly routed since the trace is supposed to go straight from the pin to the capacitor.

     

    I've seen the hackaday post, which motivated me to search for tiny heatsinks to try since I don't want to use the saw :-)

     

    So far in my meter the Rpi shows 380-440mA draw now with the keyboard and tiny mouse connected and a NTSC TV monitor on composite video.

     

    -J

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