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Ask an Expert Forum How could I install a new 12 volt backlight?
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  • monitor
  • power
  • backlighting
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How could I install a new 12 volt backlight?

bwarren97
bwarren97 over 10 years ago

I have a 1080p monitor that I really really liked, until its backlight started being a butthead. So, I decided to take out the old backlight, and stick in an aftermarket one. I thought it would be nice and simple, until I realized that the LED driver ran on 12 volts and there was no 12 volt output anywhere on the monitor (the original LED was driven by 80 volts).
I have confirmed that the backlight works by jump-wiring it to a PC power supply, but I need a somewhat space-saving method of driving it within the monitor case using its own power supply so that it turns on and off with the monitor. I would like to just solder a 12 volt regulator directly onto the 80 volt output, but I don't know if there is a small chip capable of providing sufficient power or stepping down that much voltage. Any ideas?

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  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 10 years ago in reply to bwarren97 +2 suggested
    An optocoupler (as you discovered when you seardhed it) provides isolation between sides (LED) and the other (Transistor/Tirac/SCR). They come in various forms and some are much more sensitive than others…
  • shabaz
    shabaz over 10 years ago +1
    You can apply ohm's law and the power equation and see immediately you have a very high amount of power to dissipate as cmay77 mentions - heatsinks and fan time basically. So, theoretically possible with…
  • shabaz
    shabaz over 10 years ago in reply to bwarren97 +1
    By connecting to a 80V supply, even if your backlight draws just 0.3A (4W), your heatsink will need to dissipate more than 20W - that's a huge heatsink. Furthermore, the supply you measured is probably…
  • supper_slash
    0 supper_slash over 9 years ago

    This was fun, I like these kinda discussions.

     

    image

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 9 years ago in reply to bwarren97

    Well done, we got there in the end.

     

    Look on this as a learning exercise, and how checks can highlight the difference between theory and reality.

     

    Mark

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  • bwarren97
    0 bwarren97 over 9 years ago in reply to mcb1

    After feeling kinda dumb for forgetting how transistors worked, I redid my connections and got it to work. Yay!

    I added connections to the monitor board and the 12v supply I had mounted beside it, and tested the circuit using that. At first the opto wasn't pushing enough voltage to fully activate the backlight, so I reduced the resistance all the way down to 20 ohms before it was able to work (Had some strobe-light action going on before doing that lol). The monitor was only giving the opto LED about 20mA, so the transistor is now outputting around 3v, which was enough to work.

    After confirming all that, I assembled the circuit on my PCB prototyping board and tested it five more times before stuffing it into the case and re-assembling the monitor. Yay!

     

    Thank everyone who helped! This project has actually been quite fun!

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  • supper_slash
    0 supper_slash over 9 years ago

    I breadboarded this circuit using 9v, and a voltage divider.

    It works fine, for a multisegmented led, you will need to tailor it to your needs as far as the resistor values, and extras, but I think it should get you on track.

     

    image

    image

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 9 years ago in reply to bwarren97

    bwarren97

    Sorry but work got in the way of element14 community.

     

    Mudz is correct, your connections are incorrect.

     

     

    12v goes to Pin 5 (collector), enable goes to Pin 4 (emitter).

    Generally the base can be left unconnected, but if this causes issues, tying it to the Emitter (pin4) with a 1M or higher generally resolves it.

     

    One of the chips, I have determined, has a broken transistor side considering the resistance between the base and the collector was absolutely zip

    With 12v (via LED) applied to the base and a 100 ohm on the emitter it will have drawn 105mA or so, and will therefore provide an output.

    There is no spec for the maximum base-emitter current so maybe it is damaged or maybe it isn't.

     

    BTW the LED on the 12v side is unlikely to illuminate if you enable pin only draws 1.4mA.

     

    Mark

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  • mudz
    0 mudz over 9 years ago in reply to bwarren97

    Again, using it wrong,
    6th pin is Base, 5th one is collector, 4th one is emitter.
    connect 5th pin to 12 v in series with LED lights. and connect emitter to ground using a resistor.

     


    Moreover, as you might have applied much voltage to the base do a quick check if opto-coupler is already damaged/not damaged. image

     

    mudz

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  • bwarren97
    0 bwarren97 over 9 years ago in reply to mcb1

    I can't believe this is still causing problems -_-

    So, just got the chips in the mail today. I hooked up my test circuit, noting the maximum ratings of the transistor and LED, and none of them work.

    One of the chips, I have determined, has a broken transistor side considering the resistance between the base and the collector was absolutely zip, so the backlight stayed on no matter the LED input. I replaced the chip, and the backlight still stays on, even though I didn't see anything wrong with the chip.

     

    Here's a drawing of my circuit and my voltage readings. I have already confirmed the LED side works.

    4n35 Test circuit with voltages

     

     

    http://puu.sh/mSBpu/3189ef7198.jpg

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 9 years ago in reply to supper_slash

    Blake made this comment

    I read 1.4mA being drawn from the enable pin when I connected it.

     

    So yes the 4N35 will be capable

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 9 years ago in reply to supper_slash

    Blake says his supply has an enable input. So the answer is "probably" but everything is so vague who knows!

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  • supper_slash
    0 supper_slash over 9 years ago

    mcb1  Do you think that the 4N35 will be able to   handle the power requirement?

     

    image

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