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New fangled LED display

hafcanadian

Our Ninja CE200 coffeemaker's control module display began acting like its LEDs weren't making solid contacts.  While some came on, others didn't, so I couldn't be sure of what I was setting when adjusting time parameters on the clock. The usual culprit for such behavior is the display contact interface, with a gentle alcohol scrub of the contacts and "zebra" strip being the commonly advised resolution.  

With some difficulty and delay, I finally got the control pad module out of the bottom of the machine so I could get at the circuit boards and display.  Much to my chagrin, the display is not what I've encountered before, nor are there "fixit" videos found on YouTube for this format.  The only comment on iFixit forum was that there was a problem on the board.  Well, yeah... the display connects to the board.  I guess they were thinking the LED assembly itself isn't the issue.  

But it's a different sort of display and doesn't use a zebra strip or wire loom.  It appears to have two rows of six straight wires, 12 altogether, that are soldered directly through the board.  There is a black plastic shell protecting the long wires between the display and the board, with four feet glued or heat-melted to the board.  I can't get at the structure under the white display face to see how its assembled, with hope to find a cleanable short zebra (or two), because I can't tell how it goes together.  I don't want to start prying on something and risk damage.

Does anyone recognize this sort of display assembly and have suggestions on how to rectify the faulty LED power-up?

Display with unit plugged into power:

image

Display with no power:

image

image

image

Parents
  • 0

    Is the black plastic device just a socket for the LED module? If so the LED module would come out with a gentle pull. It is common for socketed LEDs modules to have the socket connections become a bit intermittent. Usually just re-seating the module will fix such issues, but the contacts may need a little help from contact cleaner. The reason it might be a socket is that the height looks higher than most LED module pins.

  • 0 in reply to dougw

    Thank you for responding.  I hope to have time tomorrow to use my digital camera for better resolved images to give you.  The iPad was handy and has an app I like for reducing pix below 300kb.  I don't know what the limits are here, but 300kb each is common on my other forums.  The iPad doesn't do well on "macro" photography;  toss in my essential tremor and you get what you got.

    The issue with the display is not intermittent.  It is consistent;  some of the crystals light up and some do not.  The link to Sunny LED has a diagram with which I may be able to determine exactly from where (which wires) the faults emanate by identifying which crystals don't activate.

    Yes, the black plastic surround simply acts to stabilize the display on the board due to its long wires.  It's the same device shabaz linked to in his reply.  Unlike common displays with board contacts and zebra strips, it's apparently a sealed device, so he's likely correct that I wouldn't want to try disassembling it, and it's not the culprit (darn it).  

    My eyes aren't the greatest anymore, even with my handy dandy head-mounted magnifying device;  but it kinda looked like perhaps there is a "crater" around each wire end where it peaks through the solder points, all except two outer wires that were bent over slightly during mounting and which seem to have excellent contact and solder fully running up the wires to their tips.  I hope I can get a quality photo of that for you.  In past board repairs, I've run into nano cracking on solder points where just reheating them slightly melted things back to functionality.  The cratering where the wires emerge from the solder may be my issue, allowing invisibly shallow spacing inside the weld and poor current flow.  Reheating the solder points for full adhesion might result in the repair I need.

Reply
  • 0 in reply to dougw

    Thank you for responding.  I hope to have time tomorrow to use my digital camera for better resolved images to give you.  The iPad was handy and has an app I like for reducing pix below 300kb.  I don't know what the limits are here, but 300kb each is common on my other forums.  The iPad doesn't do well on "macro" photography;  toss in my essential tremor and you get what you got.

    The issue with the display is not intermittent.  It is consistent;  some of the crystals light up and some do not.  The link to Sunny LED has a diagram with which I may be able to determine exactly from where (which wires) the faults emanate by identifying which crystals don't activate.

    Yes, the black plastic surround simply acts to stabilize the display on the board due to its long wires.  It's the same device shabaz linked to in his reply.  Unlike common displays with board contacts and zebra strips, it's apparently a sealed device, so he's likely correct that I wouldn't want to try disassembling it, and it's not the culprit (darn it).  

    My eyes aren't the greatest anymore, even with my handy dandy head-mounted magnifying device;  but it kinda looked like perhaps there is a "crater" around each wire end where it peaks through the solder points, all except two outer wires that were bent over slightly during mounting and which seem to have excellent contact and solder fully running up the wires to their tips.  I hope I can get a quality photo of that for you.  In past board repairs, I've run into nano cracking on solder points where just reheating them slightly melted things back to functionality.  The cratering where the wires emerge from the solder may be my issue, allowing invisibly shallow spacing inside the weld and poor current flow.  Reheating the solder points for full adhesion might result in the repair I need.

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