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Cylindrical farming - The 3 stages - Blog 2

Former Member

Hello again.


In this blog we will explain the different processes carried out in the 3 stages.


Stage 1: Seed treatment stage


The seed treatment stage involves keeping the seeds submerged in nutrient rich medium until the seeds sprout. The medium will also be heated to about 50°C to kill the disease causing microbes on seed coat.


Stage 2: Germination stage


Once the seeds have sprouted, they will be placed in small packets of soil (in cloth). The cloth bags are placed in germination bed where they remain submerged in a rich nutrient solution. Temperature conditions are monitored and controlled as required. In the later stage, when shoots sprout, artificial lighting is provided. After a week in germination bed, the matured saplings are transferred to the cylindrical farm.


Stage 3: Cylindrical farm


The matured saplings are rid of the cloth covering and are placed in slots in the cylindrical structure. Continuous flow of nutrient solution provides the required supplements to the plants. Temperature, Humidity and Lighting conditions are controlled to ensure the best environment for the growing plants.


The 3 stage technique is employed to make the most efficient use of available resources. For instance, when the seeds need to sprout, continuous flow of water and extra lighting is not required. So a separate seed treatment stage is used to prevent continuous pumping of water solution and also the use of LEDs.

Our next blog will contain block diagram showing our entire structure and detailed explanation on how the system operates.


Do post your doubts. And keep checking our blog.

  • in reply to D_Hersey

    As far as I know I remember from my early years while living in Italy, we was owning a good (about 3000 square meters) area of terrain for tomatoes, lettuce, carrots and other plants I don't remember. I am sure that the initial seeding procedure was almost the same you describe. The seeds, separate by type, was put inside cotton and pure water in the dark for about one week - 10 days. Possibly indoor in a hot area but not 50C. When the first two leaf was about 1 - 1.5 cm then the seeds was moved in high nutrient soil. Only when the plant was about 3-4 cm outside the soil it was definitely placed in its final destination.

     

    It seems that also with different growing methods the first phase from seed will be always the same or very similar.

     

    Enrico

  • I am not an expert, so I hesitate to comment.  It seems to me that sprouting seeds in nutrient solution may not be a good idea.  I would use clear water, but I would change it out often.  The seed makes a decision to sprout.  It isn't just water it seeks, but flowing water.  If solutes from the seed don't go away, the seed might take a pass, figuring the water to be stagnant.  I would get a plastic chopping board and incline it slightly over the side of a sink.  I would wrap the seeds in a sheet of the really cheap, institutional brown paper towels most usually found in the lav at school.  Then I would get a large Squib funnel in a ring stand.  Remembering to lube the stopcock, I'd set it to drip-drip-drip HOH 'til I returned.  Leaving nutrients out minimizes the chance of contamination.  If I was really concerned about this, I would put a drop of peroxide in the water.  The seed has nutrient internally to get the seedling over this stage.  That is what makes seed one of the most nutritious foods.

     

    Also, research the organisms you are hosting.  I have a variegated wildflower garden out back.  I was told to scarify the Illinois Bundleflower seeds or they wouldn't hatch.  Actually, my experiment with soaking them then then using lots worked, otherwise, I would have gotten out the sandpaper.  Don't put bundleflower seeds in the center of the garden, they wont grow there, put them at the edges.  Make your garden outline serpentine or otherwise concave if you want more.  I digress. . .