Announcing Three New Builds! -- Episode 279

Instead of printing parts on the 3D printer, could you print molds instead?

https://howchoo.com/g/mgyymza3nzi/3d-printing-molds-for-rubber-abd-plastic

Typically sheet plastic is more expensive than wood by a pretty large margin depending on type, so while it would look cooler, I don't think it would improve on the expense. If these get produced, maybe that could be a bonus add-on someone could select when purchasing a kit.

That would be great! Ben said it would really help him with the build. Send me your email and we'll make arrangements. Thanks so much!

~Karen

Without turning it into a tablet game, I'm not sure how to show which wire is connecting which inputs. If you wait for Pt.1 of the new build, you will see what we have in mind in terms of I/O. It makes it tricky to make everything digital.

I like the mini pinball project. Would it maybe shave a few bucks off if you made the box out of something transparent like plexiglass? I've wanted to make a transparent custom pinball machine since the late 80's thinking it would be super cool to see all the internals such as the solenoids/actuators and when multi balls are piling up to be dispensed.

Perhaps that's a problem, people need a break from what their norm is to transition into a different field where it isn't the norm?

Hi all,

Just to expand on my original thought. It was for the layout etc of those

switchboards as opposed to the actual wires and plugs as I agree they are

long gone by now.

Originally posted this in the wrong thread I guess.

This is in reference to the hackmunji project.

First for names of ports, It should likely be something along the lines of Output, Input, and Result.

You guys were talking about in the video moving the LEDs to one side of the board, however it is my understanding that only some of the outputs are active at a given time.. Correct?

This would cause a huge mental disconnect and likely add more confusion. You are shrinking the board anyways, why not build a light ring around the output and input ports. This would increase the visibility of them and likely no longer require scanning. If it still isn't enough try moving them to the short side (top and bottom currently), I think that would be more than enough. Having the LEDs removed from the port that they represent just seems like a bad idea.

When talking about light ring, I am thinking along the lines of the Xbox ring of light, but obviously much smaller scale. I have even seen these on a device before I just can't think what it was.

I just seen anigan post above about using RGB to get rid of 1 set of leds and I think this fits perfectly into this idea.

bearfootleather in the thread I posted in had brought up old telecom switchboard ports/wires as a good idea instead of banana plugs, but no clue if they still are cost effective being their primary use is dead.

If those are a dead end you likely could look at what multi-meters and other testing equipment use to connect the leads to the device. I have no idea the longevity of them, but they for sure are cheap.

For longevity reasons there are few connectors that are designed for such frequent plugging and unplugging in a package that would fit the scale of this project.

If neither of these other options work I think you just have to look at what banana plugs on the cheap side are in bulk orders. Skimping here would seem like a really bad idea and stress what is already the most common failure point.

Perhaps, but from my observations, it would make a user interface more accustom to what current game players know.

After all, how many games do you see any more where physical pieces need to be moved?

The wire board is great for us retro types, but totally foreign to the newer generations.

DAB

In the hackmunji rededign you could remove the result LED and repurpose the answer led.  You could make that an RGB led and have it red if you want it off or blue if you want it on.  Theb green when its correct (on or off if you want).