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Documents Repairing a Neewer 660 Studio light - How Hard Can It Be? -- Episode 594
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  • Author Author: tariq.ahmad
  • Date Created: 9 Mar 2023 2:01 AM Date Created
  • Last Updated Last Updated: 17 Mar 2023 8:24 AM
  • Views 22009 views
  • Likes 10 likes
  • Comments 46 comments

Repairing a Neewer 660 Studio light - How Hard Can It Be? -- Episode 594

I’ve got a studio light which has suddenly become faulty, how hard could it be to fix it rather than replace? In today’s episode I try and fault find the PCB to see if its a fault I can fix.

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Product Name Manufacturer Quantity Buy Kit
8 bit MCU, STM8S003F3P6TR STMICROELECTRONICS 1 Buy Now
Fixed LDO Voltage Regulator HOLTEK 1 Buy Now
Pluggable Terminal Block WAGO 3 Buy Now
 

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Fault studio light

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  • hifromkatie
    hifromkatie over 2 years ago in reply to RichG +3
    I'm quite tempted to go completely away from the original design and do a 555 based controller, the main operation of the micro was to take the potentiometer input and turn it in to a PWM to the LED driver…
  • RichG
    RichG over 2 years ago +1
    Yes a new project with a microcontroller.
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  • jc2048
    jc2048 over 2 years ago

    Thanks for the video. It's interesting watching how others do these things.

    I'd have skipped pulling the caps off the board, as the probability of a ceramic cap shorting is quite low compared to a chip going.

    It's very likely for a product like this that the processor will have the code protected, so in your place I'd consider a rework with a small SBC, where you can have a bit fun later extending the functionality, rather than trying to repair it.

    It's not too clear from your video, but there appear to be two drivers and two controls. Are the LEDs split into a warm group and a cool group? And is there one control for the intensity and one for the colour temperature?

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  • hifromkatie
    hifromkatie over 2 years ago in reply to jc2048

    As beacon_dave says below there are 2 separate controls, which the micro converts into 2 seperate PWM outputs to LED drivers, 1 for yellow(ish) LEDs and the other for bright white LEDs, so you can adjust the brightness of each and therefore the colour temperature of the light output.

    In hindsight removing the caps was unlikely to help, but I have had an occurrence where a ceramic cap had hairline cracked through it due to an impact, and I wondered if that had happened again.

    My current idea is to use a 555 for control and avoid using a micro for a replacement control board, not really any reason other than to challenge myself to not use one in it's repair.

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  • jc2048
    jc2048 over 2 years ago in reply to hifromkatie

    The most obvious thing you could do with a processor, as beacon_dave points out somewhere here, is add DMX. It's quite easy to do if you have some programming experience; the fiddliest bit is usually detecting the break: on some microcontrollers it's trivial, on others you need a bit of lateral thinking to puzzle out a way to do it.

    But totally-analogue sounds good too. As an alternative to the 555 timers, you might also consider something designed with op-amps.

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  • hifromkatie
    hifromkatie over 2 years ago in reply to jc2048

    The thought of adding DMX is interesting, I could make a desk control for it then. Although I'd probably want to modify the 3 ones that still work too, so they could be controlled together. The controller would be an interesting extra project though

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  • hifromkatie
    hifromkatie over 2 years ago in reply to jc2048

    The thought of adding DMX is interesting, I could make a desk control for it then. Although I'd probably want to modify the 3 ones that still work too, so they could be controlled together. The controller would be an interesting extra project though

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