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Blog Quick: what's your best desoldering braid/wick tip or trick?
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  • Author Author: baldengineer
  • Date Created: 1 Feb 2021 4:59 AM Date Created
  • Views 9715 views
  • Likes 14 likes
  • Comments 49 comments
  • soldering
  • solder wick
  • desolder
  • desoldering braid
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Quick: what's your best desoldering braid/wick tip or trick?

baldengineer
baldengineer
1 Feb 2021

image

Since last March 2020, I have been live-streaming three days a week. My streams are all electronics related but include retro computer repairs, soldering kits, Arduino coding, explaining measurements, and other electronics stuff. Several of the recent Workbench Wednesdays episodes have been a result of a live stream. Another outcome from these streams is that my soldering skill has increased significantly. Not just because I am practicing more, but because constantly being watched and critiqued creates motivational awareness!

 

The other day, someone commented that I am a "solder wick magician." Of the things I get called online, I consider that one a compliment. Though, unlike the other names, it may not be entirely deserved. At least, I don't think so. However, as the animated GIF above shows, I occasionally get an excellent wicking action when using desoldering braid.

 

There are only a few tips and tricks that I (think I) actually know. So, I thought I'd ask the community about yours. Getting started, here is something obvious to me now, but people usually get the ah-ha look on their faces when I show them. Unless the wick is brand new, I'll dab it with a flux pen before using it. I find flux on the joint I'm trying to remove, plus the extra flux that wicks into the braid, is very effective. (And a great way to use up old braid.)

 

What are some tips or tricks you have when using desoldering braid (or wick)?

 

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Top Comments

  • Fred27
    Fred27 over 5 years ago +9
    I was also going to suggest using more flux, but it seems everyone's on the same page with that one. I have a "shoe polish" style tin of flux that I must have got free with something from China. I drag…
  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 5 years ago +7
    For through hole components, don't bend the leads underneath the board to hold them in place on the top side. That "can" make it more difficult to desolder in the future if needed and the part never stays…
  • wolfgangfriedrich
    wolfgangfriedrich over 5 years ago +7
    Use more flux, always....
  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 5 years ago in reply to navadeepganeshu

    Lol...everybody, and don't let them tell you otherwise!

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  • dougw
    dougw over 5 years ago in reply to navadeepganeshu

    I seem to have learned that lesson (about solder wick getting too hot to hold) more than once. image

    Sometimes you know it is going to get hot, but need to hang on a little longer because the wick hasn't completed its job yet. image

    It is a good time to practice your expletive vocabulary. image

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  • navadeepganeshu
    navadeepganeshu over 5 years ago

    Who else got the solder braid too hot to hold and dropped in the middle of operation?

    image

     

    Touch the solder braid with soldering iron tip gently and drag over it to absorb in the solder while handling SMDs. Else, it may bend the leads(especially LQFP, TSSOP) and damage the component. Here's one of mine which happened so:

    image

    (Luckily, it was some extra GPIO's left on the MCU)

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  • dougw
    dougw over 5 years ago

    The wick I have has pretty nasty flux fumes, so ventilation/air filtering is important.

    I sometimes add solder to the joint before wicking - to get the heat distributed and melt everything and get the wicking action started.

    It is important to ensure all solder is melted and flowing before starting the process - one way is to heat the joint with the iron and slide the wick down the iron to ensure the joint and the wick are both hot before they come in contact. You need an iron that can keep both the joint and the wick hot enough for the solder to stay molten. Flux seems to help keep the copper from oxidizing, and to conduct heat and keep everything hot.

    I use stainless steel needles to insert into "cleaned" though-holes to ensure they can later accommodate pins. The solder doesn't stick to stainless, so the needles can be easily removed after the solder freezes, leaving the right size of hole.

    That being said, I am not a big fan of solder wick. It is too messy, often requires more heat than is good for the card, and often doesn't work that well.

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  • Fred27
    Fred27 over 5 years ago

    I was also going to suggest using more flux, but it seems everyone's on the same page with that one. I have a "shoe polish" style tin of flux that I must have got free with something from China. I drag the braid over the surface of that to get it nicely coated with flux.

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