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Blog Build your own Torch/Flashlight!
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  • Author Author: shabaz
  • Date Created: 14 Jun 2017 4:43 AM Date Created
  • Views 9102 views
  • Likes 12 likes
  • Comments 12 comments
  • xp-e
  • led lighting
  • torch
  • cree
  • flashlight
  • ggadgetsch
Related
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Build your own Torch/Flashlight!

shabaz
shabaz
14 Jun 2017

Introduction

It's fairly geeky to want to make your own flashlight!

This project offers over 260 lumens of light output (approaching some typical LED lights for home use) and is powered by three AA or AAA batteries, or a single lithium ion (Li-ion) cell.

It was built from scratch in about 4 hours, using whatever I had handy.

Here it is not shown, because the light is very bright! I held a 5mm thick sheet of perspex in front of it.

image

 

The Circuit for Flashlight 'A'

The circuit is shown here. Basically it just consists of a DC-DC converter using a Texas Instruments LM2733X chip. The LEDs are Cree XP-E, and are quite bright!

There are two LEDs, for double the power : ) For ease of reference this circuit will be called Flashlight 'A':

image

The parts included:

LM2733X DC-DC converter ICLM2733X DC-DC converter IC

MBR0520LMBR0520L

15uH inductor15uH inductor

2.2uF capacitor 08052.2uF capacitor 0805

10uF 16V capacitor 080510uF 16V capacitor 0805

330pF capacitor 0603330pF capacitor 0603

68k resistor 060368k resistor 0603

12k resistor 060312k resistor 0603

47k resistor 060347k resistor 0603

Cree XP-E Cool White LEDsCree XP-E Cool White LEDs (two required)

LED reflectorLED reflector (two required)

3xAA battery holder3xAA battery holder

Slide switch panel mountSlide switch panel mount

Possible suitable casePossible suitable case

Bergquist 804090 MCPCB or similar (XP-E MCPCB often on ebay)

PCB or protoboard as required

 

Building It

For the LEDs, I had some metal core PCBs (MCPCB) made by Bergquist. I've had them for about a year or two and done nothing with them. I put some solder paste on them and then put the LED on top, and put it on top of a heat source. The heat source that I used was a pre-heater, but people have been known to use all sorts of cooking methods (note: solder and flux is toxic, don't use stuff that you use for cooking food!).

image

Next, I built up the rest of the circuit using a SMD prototyping board and normal hand soldering methods. It would be nice to build this on a custom PCB eventually.

image

Testing It

I have not done much testing, I just checked current consumption for now. The current drain from three AA batteries is about 1.05A, so they should last a couple of hours. The current through the LEDs is approximately 450mA. The datasheet states that the output is 107 lumens minimum at 350mA, and at 450mA it is expected to be about 125% of this value according to the charts. So, this means more than 260 lumens should be output for the two LEDs, but it will also depend on the LED temperature. With the metal core PCB it should be very easy to bolt on a heat sink if needed to keep them cool. For use as a flashlight it could also be good to have some dual reflectors for focusing to a tighter beam.

 

Summary

This short project resulted in a reasonably powerful flashlight. It is fairly easy to build! The difficulty will be enclosing it in a nice handheld package. I think it is worth the effort for all geeks : )

 

Flashlight 'B'

The next iteration of the design, called Flashlight B, uses a TI LM3410XLM3410X part, and dual Cree XM-L2 LEDs. It is discussed in the comments below. Here is the schematic:

image

A PCB was drawn up for this (the gerber files that can be sent to any PCB manufacturer are attached to this blog post, just before the comments section. The filename is export-flashlight-b-rev1.zip) :

image

The PCB is composed of the driver, and two circular areas where the LEDs will go. The PCB can be used in a single piece, or alternatively the PCB could be cut if it is desired to locate the circular LED areas somewhere else in an enclosure.

The boards arrived:

image

 

They have not been assembled or tested yet.. bookmark to watch this space!

Attachments:
export-flashlight-b-rev1.zip
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Top Comments

  • shabaz
    shabaz over 8 years ago +4
    I made some progress with a dual XM-L2 design, I'm hoping this one is around 600 lumen ballpark, with just slightly more current consumption (perhaps 1.1A at 4.5V). This uses the TI LM3410X driver chip…
  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 8 years ago +3
    Hi Shabaz, Nice project. Since we have DC to DC converters that approach 100% efficiency you would think we could come up with a more efficient electricity to light conversion so we could get away from…
  • shabaz
    shabaz over 8 years ago in reply to jc2048 +3
    Hi Jon! As you say, the efficiency isn't great, I just used what I had. I do want to build something with a couple of the more powerful (and more efficient) XM-L2 LEDs, and with LM3410X I think it could…
Parents
  • balearicdynamics
    balearicdynamics over 8 years ago

    Nice project Shabaz! when we can enjoy a demo video, if possible?

     

    Enrico

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  • balearicdynamics
    balearicdynamics over 8 years ago

    Nice project Shabaz! when we can enjoy a demo video, if possible?

     

    Enrico

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 8 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

    Hi Enrico!

     

    That's a good idea, I should try to take a photo/video of the beam outdoors. The thing is too bright to directly look at.

    I just saw these reflectorsreflectors, so I think I will buy a couple to focus it first.

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  • balearicdynamics
    balearicdynamics over 8 years ago in reply to shabaz

    Did you will use this build for photographi, Shabaz ?

     

    Enrico

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 8 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

    Hi Enrico,

     

    I will take a photo of it with the reflectors fitted too. Do you mean will I use it for lighting objects to take photographs? It is an interesting idea, It has more light output than the Lumimuse 3 according to the specs for that (this project should be twice as bright). Also, without any reflector attached it is quite a wide beam usable as a camping light maybe.. plenty of light for at least a 4m radius.

    There are some more powerful LEDs, like XM-L2, I'm wondering if I should try to solder them up with a more powerful DC-DC converter. However I don't have a MCPCB, nor any reflector for it, I'd need to find these (the XM-L2 is slightly larger than XP-E).

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  • jc2048
    jc2048 over 8 years ago in reply to shabaz

    The layout is so simple you might be able to make your own with a piece of ordinary metal-clad board (at half the rated current, you don't necessarily need the specialist Berquist material) and a craft knife to divide the copper into the appropriate areas. The insulation layer is very thin, so there's a danger the knife will go through to the base metal, but if you cut twice at a slant from each side (a miniature V groove) you should avoid direct shorts [obviously measure with a meter to make sure]. If it worked, you could even get both LEDs on a single piece of board with your own choice of fixing positions, which would then be neater than the 'stars'.

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 8 years ago in reply to jc2048

    Hi Jon,

     

    That's a good idea! Also, now I think of it, there was a useful part which was available but is no longer in production : ( it was a copper peg intended for insertion into a board, to pull out heat onto a heat sink behind the board. The XM-L2 is just about large enough to do something similar with a 3mm diameter copper rod, i.e. solder one end of the (very short) rod onto the centre of the LED (which is isolated from the anode/cathode) and poke the other end into a 3mm hole in a heat sink (with thermal epoxy in it). This would work with any (e.g. fiberglass) copper clad board in-between with 3mm hole.

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