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Member's Forum Bistable/latching solenoid valve control circuit. Please help!
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  • change polarity
  • solenoid valve
Related

Bistable/latching solenoid valve control circuit. Please help!

sim.parkin
sim.parkin over 7 years ago

Hi there.

 

This is my first time posting and it's about my first electronics project since school image. So no need to say that i apologise if what I am asking is very simple but still I hope some one can help me.

 

So here's the situ... I want to be able to remotely switch a hose pipe on, but the thing is, the system is fixed into my vehicle so the whole thing has to be portable and run off batteries. I have a remote switch that at the press of a button (on the remote) can momentarily (or it can be set to self lock also) connect the battery to the solenoid valve and switch it on but the valve needs the polarity to be reversed and pulsed to switch it off again. For love nor money can I figure out a way of doing this? My head is in a whirl from all the h-bridge... dpdt relays... flipflops... etc.... every time I research something it seems I need something else to make it work. (if that makes sense) I am lost.

 

In short what I want to do is: Press the button on the remote control once and it turn the water flow on, and press it again and the water turn off. Basically its a momentary push button input that alternates between a +6v output and a -6v output. If that is possible.

 

I want to use this latching type relay because you can get low power ones of this type, but they also save battery power by only requiring a pulse of electricity to change state, rather than energising a coil for longer periods of time. Oh and I also want to avoid using microcontrollers if possible because I can't code.

 

Really hope someone out there can help. I also hope I remembered everything, if I missed something just let me know.

 

Thanks for reading.

 

 

Simon.

 

p.s. I found one other post like this with a guy with my exact problem but he gave up and used a non-latching type. image

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 7 years ago in reply to sim.parkin +4 suggested
    Hi Simon, The additional information was helpful and from this information in the data sheet: I have a little more confidence that my circuit can be made to work. Keep in mind you may have to experiment…
  • sim.parkin
    sim.parkin over 7 years ago +3 suggested
    Hi there Guys. Wowsers!! That was both quick and excellent!! Thanks so much for your help with this! Sorry for not being able to reply until now... life . I knew it was possible but couldn't get there…
  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 7 years ago +2 suggested
    Hi Simon, I may have a possible solution for you. This is a bistable or Flip flop that I was playing with the other day. This one is triggered by sound but it could just as easily be triggered with a momentary…
Parents
  • sim.parkin
    0 sim.parkin over 7 years ago

    Hi there Guys.

     

    Wowsers!! That was both quick and excellent!! image Thanks so much for your help with this! Sorry for not being able to reply until now... life image. I knew it was possible but couldn't get there like you guys can, just don't have the experience i guess. image image (always learning though)

     

    I have found a data sheet for the valve (or a similar one as I haven't bought it yet, still shopping around) http://www.solenoid-valve.world/image/data/PDF/115bb.pdf

     

    Thanks so much for the video John and your advise!! It looks to me like that will work great from what i understand so please send me along a schematic if its not too much trouble. I would really enjoy diving into that. I really can't thank you enough even with what you have shown me so far though. You're a good egg as they say here in the UK. I would go as far as to say a double yolker! image

     

    I really like the way you thought about it Douglas as the 3 states required. I hadn't thought of it that way before. I did manage to glimpse a scenario where I could use a two button remote in my research but i would like operation to be one button if at all possible (but not at the cost of battery life or anything else that may make the thing not fit for purpose). Thanks very much for your thoughts and ideas.

     

    Mark I'm looking forward to hearing more about what you think now that you have the data sheet for the valve and other details. image

     

    Some other facts I failed to tell you before hand and might be helpful (or problematic for me and i don't even know image): I am planning to use 2x 3.7v 3000mAh 18650's connected in series to provide enough voltage (Will I need to use a voltage divider do you think?), the remote switch is like this one... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4V-5V-6V-7-4V-9V-12V-Relay-DC-ON-OFF-Wireless-Remote-Control-Switch-Transmitter/172957190814?… I am planning to use this board to charge the batteries... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1S-2S-2A-3-7V-7-4V-Lithium-Li-ion-18650-Battery-Charging-Board-Charger-Module/263267349824?ss… I think that is all of it.

     

    I can't thank you enough for your most helpful direction guys.

     

    Until soon.

     

     

    Simon.

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  • jw0752
    0 jw0752 over 7 years ago in reply to sim.parkin

    Hi Simon,

    The additional information was helpful and from this information in the data sheet:

     

    image

     

    I have a little more confidence that my circuit can be made to work. Keep in mind you may have to experiment with the size of C3 and C4 as well as the value of R10 and R11. According to the Data sheet we need 375 mA for 15 mSec to actuate the solenoid.

    Here is the schematic. I am not an engineer and sometimes I don't get things right. Fortunately there are some really sharp guys here that look over my shoulder and help with needed corrections.

     

    image

    Click on the schematic to get an enlarged view. I have also attempted to attach a bit map file of the schematic so hopefully you can print a copy.

     

    Please continue to post your progress so we can see how your project turns out.

     

    John

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  • jw0752
    0 jw0752 over 7 years ago in reply to sim.parkin

    Hi Simon,

    The additional information was helpful and from this information in the data sheet:

     

    image

     

    I have a little more confidence that my circuit can be made to work. Keep in mind you may have to experiment with the size of C3 and C4 as well as the value of R10 and R11. According to the Data sheet we need 375 mA for 15 mSec to actuate the solenoid.

    Here is the schematic. I am not an engineer and sometimes I don't get things right. Fortunately there are some really sharp guys here that look over my shoulder and help with needed corrections.

     

    image

    Click on the schematic to get an enlarged view. I have also attempted to attach a bit map file of the schematic so hopefully you can print a copy.

     

    Please continue to post your progress so we can see how your project turns out.

     

    John

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  • sim.parkin
    0 sim.parkin over 7 years ago in reply to jw0752

    Hi John.

     

    Thanks so much for the schematic. It is very interesting. I saw this type of flip flop in my research... its the inclusion of the mosfets i had no idea about. Good one!! image image

    I will have to breadboard this out when the valve arrives and fine tune as you instruct. Cant wait. image

    After shopping around, I found this solenoid valve and bought it but it needs a longer pulse I notice. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC6V-1-2-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-Water-Fuel-Electromagnetic-Valve-White/122324613817?ssPageNa…  Can you help me understand how to alter the circuit to its spec? I think I have to change the capacitors but possibly also something else? the ad doesn't give a current draw but am i right in saying we can get this from the coil resistance in ohms that is given? 6v / 9Ω is 667ma is that right? Possibly missing something.

     

    Of course I will stay in touch and let you know how it all goes. Just have to wait for all the parts now. image

     

    Kindest regards.

     

    Simon.

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 7 years ago in reply to sim.parkin
    6v / 9Ω is 667ma is that right?

    Correct.

    The reality is that an inductive coil (motor/solenoid) will draw more as it gets powered up due to the magnetic effect trying to resist change.

    For smaller inductances 1.5 to 2 times is a general figure, but that is only for a short time, while the constant drain is as you calculated above ... not that they are designed to be on all time.

     

    In reality the length of time you are going to apply power onto the solenoid is nothing.

    The standby power for the receiver is likely to be greater over 24hrs than the time to energise/de-energise the solenoid.

     

    Mark

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