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More old mains sockets removed

Workshopshed

Just swapped out these old sockets. Never seen anything quite like the bottom one. The earth was wrapped around a plate rather than having its own screw terminal.

image

I searched up the patent.

https://patents.google.com/patent/GB449631A/en

449,631. Plug couplings. ARNOLD, C. L., and DOWSETT, R. W., and MK. ELECTRIC, Ltd., Wakefield Street, Edmonton, London. Fab. 12, 1935, No. 4495. [Class 38 (i)] A socket fitting has a protector 8 that covers the supply sockets 2 and is moved in a plane by the earthing-pin 9a after it has entered its socket 3 so as to uncover the sockets 2. The projection 6a enters the socket 3 below its entry end and a guide 6b slides in holes in the socket 3 and in a plate 4a attached thereto, a spring 7 acting to keep the protector normally in the position shown. In modifications the sliding protector is furnished with a pair of limbs guided on parallel rods and interengaging with a similar pair of fixed limbs supporting the rods, springs being inserted between the limbs, or it may be guided in a channel in the base or in a cap thereon.

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  •   imageonly thing I can say is thank god I dont live in the UK! 220 mains~ that will kill you if you get wrapped up in it. I have been bitten by US mains (120) and Im still here!! When I lived in Asbury Park I lived in a Victorian, and did rehab on it. First problem was Knob and Tubing, then no safety ground, ouch. This pic from my house in Farmers Branch, North Dallas. The SOB used a doubled up single box and had the wires bare going from one box to another.  Plus the ground wire, bare-bright copper ground never went to the send box. I don't think the switches had grounds. But the use of the two boxes instead of double gang and the stunt with the wires where VERBOTEN!.  

  • in reply to phoenixcomm

    Been shocked a couple of times with 240v whilst working on a prototype light dimmer. Luckily the RCD triggered and although very shaken I wasn't dead. My testing approach has changed significantly since then.

    However, having seen US electrics, I would suggest you stick with 110v.

    We do have special "site" transformers which bring the voltage down to 110v or as I recently discovered it's actually plus/minus 50v.

    Although I believe the US system is actually a centre tap off 240v to give you the 110v.

    Our main breaker here is just 100A which is pretty standard here.

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  • in reply to phoenixcomm

    Been shocked a couple of times with 240v whilst working on a prototype light dimmer. Luckily the RCD triggered and although very shaken I wasn't dead. My testing approach has changed significantly since then.

    However, having seen US electrics, I would suggest you stick with 110v.

    We do have special "site" transformers which bring the voltage down to 110v or as I recently discovered it's actually plus/minus 50v.

    Although I believe the US system is actually a centre tap off 240v to give you the 110v.

    Our main breaker here is just 100A which is pretty standard here.

Children
  • in reply to Workshopshed

       imageSorry when I talk about 120/110 Its one half of the 240 so you end up with 240 main = {Hot-120} + Neutral +  {Hot-120} the 240 is handled by the main beaker which is on both poles! 

  • in reply to phoenixcomm

    In Australia and New Zealand with 240v MEN (multiple earth neutral) where each house has its own earth and that is connected to the comon neutral at each house works fine when you grow up with it 

    then in most houses before 1970 you had 2 phases ( to share the load ) as it was 3 phase on the pole 

    so when looking at 3ph this is 415 between 2 phases 

    when it gets scarey is when the neutral becomes disconnected between the house and the pole

    EG turn on 1000w stove element (from phase A) and 150w tv and light on (from phase b)  

    so with no neutral the 230v tv gets 415v and dies. 

  • in reply to phoenixcomm

    another fright is from when we had Hotels with VCR's

    walk into a hotel with 40 rooms to work on aerial system

    aerial was earthed with roof 

    there was 1 brand of VCR that had 5m ohm resister between phase and neutral to body

    so you got to wear it when you unplugged the  aerial amplifier