Although they are meant to be used with electronics, these solder pumps never really works: 

I always end with up pealed off copper traces and molten plastic when trying to remove pin from a PCB:

Or maybe, I'm using this tool wrongly...

And also avoid placing it exactly perpendicular to the PCB when de-soldering. Always place it slight angle and then you can save traces.

Another suggestion is use higher wattage soldering iron (So you can melt it quickly and also avoid over heating the entire PCB) then add some solder on that pad. After melting the soldering first remove the component if its possible then clean up the pad.

Yesterday I de-soldered these two modules with similar connectors and using only 12W soldering Iron.

mahmood.hassan Please don't give out bad advice preferred angle is about 45 -60 degrees. Normally solder melts between 90 to 450 °C (190 to 840 °F) depending on the % of lead and tin. One of the most common is SN60 (Sn60Pb40) melts between  183 to 190 °C (361 to 374 °F)  And don't ever touch the solder to the iron when soldering. I have a series of blogs called Soldering School: it what to do, not to do, and the links to the NASA specifications as well as Student Workbook for Hand Soldering with photos. When you use an iron too little wattage (temp range) you end up overheating the parts as you must keep the iron in place way too long and you might damage components. Conversely, with too-much, you stand the chance of burning the PCB, lifting traces etc.

This is a link to the Alloy Temperature Chart

Thanks for sharing this information again.

And I was not talking about soldering iron angle. I was talking about desoldering pump angle.

Oh, I actually end up lifting traces with the soldering iron, not with the pump . What happens is that, when I try to remove a component (ex. pins) or clean up holes to install a new component, my solder pump does not sucks up enough / all the solder. Often I need to repeat the pumping process again and again, so the PCB get overheated and the trace lifts up.

Attila Tőkés ouch, what are use using for your iron? Flame Thrower? You have to know what temperature your iron is, well anyway supposed to be.

phoenixcomm, I'm using a TS100 soldering iron at around 300-320°C. The problem comes when I'm insisting too much, like for 1+ minutes , with iron and the pump. Then the PCB heats up very much and the PCB traces sometimes get affected this.

I think, I should try out TCPMeta's method of using solder wick with flux. I sometimes use solder wick, but never tried it in combination with flux .

Hi!

That's easy to troubleshoot, either the power or the tip temperature is too low, or there's an issue with tip wetting and the iron contact with the solder on the pad and component lead.

If these things are correct, then the solder should be in fully melted state within a couple of seconds, even if it is a large component lead.

I just use the flux in solder, i.e. I'll wet the tip, and then apply the iron and then maybe add some solder (i.e. adding solder to remove it all : ), but extra flux would work too. Everything is done within seconds using these methods, so no board damage.

If you're using a TS100 iron, an issue could be the power supply (it may not be able to supply enough power perhaps). I'm just guessing though (I have not used this iron).

Hi!

That's easy to troubleshoot, either the power or the tip temperature is too low, or there's an issue with tip wetting and the iron contact with the solder on the pad and component lead.

If these things are correct, then the solder should be in fully melted state within a couple of seconds, even if it is a large component lead.

I just use the flux in solder, i.e. I'll wet the tip, and then apply the iron and then maybe add some solder (i.e. adding solder to remove it all : ), but extra flux would work too. Everything is done within seconds using these methods, so no board damage.

If you're using a TS100 iron, an issue could be the power supply (it may not be able to supply enough power perhaps). I'm just guessing though (I have not used this iron).

The solder gets melted as it should . Is just the soldering pump that does not sucks up all the solder, so I keep trying to suck the remaining solder up again and again (while keeping the solder molten). This is how I end up with the PCB overheated. (Yeah, I know I should not do this way, but sometimes I'm a little bit impatient ).

The solder sucker should cleanly suck all the solder in one try. To get this to happen, the suction tip needs to be very close to the molten solder - essentially touching, and almost no air gaps around the suction tip.

The iron tip generally gets in the way of getting the suction tip to an optimal distance, so you need to remove the iron and quickly position the suction tip properly before triggering the suction and this needs to happen while the solder is still molten.

Often you will need to add solder to the area before trying the suction process - this is to add thermal mass so the solder stays molten long enough to get the suction tip in place.

It takes some practice to get a feel for how much solder is needed to stay molten and how hot your iron should be, and exactly how close the suction tip needs to be, and how fast you need to be to get a clean shot.

It will help if your work-piece is securely held while you work the tools.

It is possibly the solder sucking tool itself. With the tool I'm using, if I push down the plunger, I can feel the air draft caused by it from more than 30 cm away. With that, solder has little chance of not being sucked up, provided it is positioned ok, and the solder is fully melted. On the other hand, with a different manufacturer solder sucking tool, it is a lot more hit-and-miss.