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Blog An Arduino/Raspberry Pi Based Wireless Light Harness
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  • Author Author: screamingtiger
  • Date Created: 11 Jun 2015 1:17 PM Date Created
  • Views 7904 views
  • Likes 3 likes
  • Comments 76 comments
  • wirless_trailer
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An Arduino/Raspberry Pi Based Wireless Light Harness

screamingtiger
screamingtiger
11 Jun 2015

I am going do this small side project as a way to take a break from my main project.  For a basic introduction please see my original blog post at http://www.element14.com/community/people/screamingtiger/blog/2015/04/20/a-small-project-idea--wireless-trailer-lighting-control

 

If anyone has concerns about my project, please post them in that thread.  I have changed the design slightly after doing  some research and testing.  I am also going to have a control panel in the car with me so I can monitor things as well as manually test the lights.

 

The car has running lights, brake lights, and turn signals all on separate channels.  However the trailer lights only have 2 channels as the running lights also function as turn signals. My initial analysis was incorrect that the running lights also function as brake lights.

 

First a tentative parts list and then I will explain.

2X Arduino mini pros 16mhz boot loader

1X Raspberry Pi model B

1X 2.5" TFT touchscreen LCD

1X 4 channel mechanical relay

6X AMS1117 SO-223 5V regulators

3X NRF24L01+ wireless transceivers

1X 1.5 watt solar charger

3X enclosures

1X 20,000mAh (20Ah) 12V lead acid battery

1X hobbyking 5V/5A regulator

1X 1000 mAh 2s LIPO

 

Explanation of parts :

There are 3 units involved. We have the unit that reads the car's lights, the unit that controls the trailer lights, and the unit that acts as a control panel.  All 3 are connected via the wireless adapters.

 

2X Arduino mini pros 16mhz boot loader

These will be used for the units that read the lights and control the trailer lights.  I have some of these on hand is why I went with them and the small footprint will allow me to tuck it away nicely.

 

1X Raspberry Pi model B and 1X 2.5" TFT touchscreen LCD

This will function as the main control panel with a simple interface.  The Pi attaches easily to the LCD which is why I chose this route.  Its way overkill but I feel it will be useful for other projects that also need a remote or control panel.  The control panel will allow monitoring as well as manual control of the lights for testing.

 

1X 4 channel mechanical relay

The stock lights on my trailer pull 2A for the brakes lights per side, and 500 mA per side for the running lights.  Originally I was going to use a mosfet but I see no reason with this high of current.  The brake lights will be turned on at the same time so the relay will see 4A.  However the running lights will be on separate channels as they also function as blinkers.  The 4th channel I may use to turn on internal lights in the trailer remotely.

 

6X AMS1117 SO-223 5V regulators

These small regulators will be used to power the Arduinos off of the main 12V sources which come from the vehicle as well as the 12V battery in the trailer.  They are also used to read the  vehicle lights.  My plan is to splice into the lines of each light the same way I did before when installing an off the shelf light controller.  The lights will be routed to the 5v regulators which then step down the voltages to 5V for reading via the GPIO pins on the Arduino.  I will need 4 regulators to read the lights.  1 for the brake lights, 1 for the running lights, and 1 each for each turn signal.

 

3X NRF24L01+ wireless transceivers

These 2.4ghz transceivers are similar to an I2C connection and a serial connection combined.  Each one has an ID and you can broadcast information. I will have a small protocol in place for error correction as well as some minor tamper proofing.  I don't want a rogue 2.4ghz signal to be able to mess with my lights.  I will be using a command set that requires a sequence of bytes in order to validate commands.

 

1X 1.5 watt solar charger

These can be had from Harbor Freight and low cost.  I decided that the trailer might as well be "green" and charge its own battery.  Besides its just another thing for me to forget to do.

 

The rest of the items are self explanatory and used to house the items and power the Pi.

 

I may choose to get some LED based trailer lights, but I am going to stick with the stock trailer lights for now until I have a working project.

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Top Comments

  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to screamingtiger +3
    Joey Did you remove the jumper .. JD-VCC to VCC ? You apply the 12v to JD-VCC NOT THE VCC PIN The 5v on the VCC pin is to power the Optocouplers ... Also note that these turn on with a LOW so you need…
  • Robert Peter Oakes
    Robert Peter Oakes over 11 years ago in reply to screamingtiger +2
    80mA for Arduino and 1A for lights adds up to 1.08Amps, not 1.8. This would provide a much longer life time (18.5 Hrs) so even with brakes you should easily get 10-12 Hr (Unless you're a heavy breaker…
  • clem57
    clem57 over 11 years ago +2
    Totally amazed is the word today. Plus a tropical depression has taken over here. LOL
  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to screamingtiger

    Out of curiousity do you not have the ability to run power from the vehicle?

    I've seen the odd wiring that was a lead out the boot, across the draw bar.

     

    mark

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  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to screamingtiger

    this way if I am stopped the brake light will be solid and the tail light flashing.  I will verify this.

    You won't see the change in Brightness, hence why you should use the brake lIght.

     

    On most vehicles the Tail is 6w while Brake and Turn are 21w.

    For both Brake and Tail you need to see them in the daylight, and if the vehicle is light in colour the contrast is not a lot.

     

    You have built this before, can you share your project?

    I built an interface for a friends Hot Rod that used two (4 in total) red tailights.

    They dropped the voltage for tail, and ran full bright for Brake with a small section for Turn.

    While it was wired to the vehicle, it did exactly what I described above, and flashed the Brake (Full Bright).

     

    It worked very well given it was a light coloured car and they were at an angle.

     

    mark

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  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to screamingtiger

    Joey

    Understand and agree with you.

    The alternative is to fit LED lamps in the other holders you have.

     

    here in NZ we have a range of LED based trailer lights. The vibrations tend to kill lamps, and with the multivoltage/waterproof nature they have advantages.

    The prices now are similar, so hence the uptake is higher.

     

    There are some surface mount versions.

    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2053587.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsurface+mount.TRS0&_nkw=surface+mount&_sacat=0

    Whether they meet DOT is another thing ...hence LED lamps/bulbs instead.

     

    Mark

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  • Robert Peter Oakes
    Robert Peter Oakes over 11 years ago

    You should also look at using FET drivers if you have not already, this will allow you to easily drive LED or incandescent Lights with no change except to the bulb (Assuming the + and - are the right way around)

     

    This might help you in that regard

    http://www.element14.com/community/groups/internet-of-things/blog/2014/08/05/driving-big-loads-with-your-micro-controller--no-isolation,,

     

    this will also link you to other similar posts I have done in the past

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  • screamingtiger
    screamingtiger over 11 years ago in reply to Robert Peter Oakes

    Yeah it should be 1.08, I must have typed it wrong somewhere.  Oops, thanks for correcting that.

    One thing I forgot is that during the day, the lights are not on, so only the brakes and blinkers will need to function.  So a 20Ah battery is probably overkill.  I may just opt for a 5Ah since I have it on hand.   That would give about 4 hours at night and probably last all day long when there is sunlight.

     

    I agree, LEDS will reduce the current draw, but I have no idea how much.   I'm not ready to invest in them yet.

     

    I am putting a lot of work into it the next couple days and hope my AMS1117 3.3V regulators get here before Friday.

     


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