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Arduino Forum h-bridge will not stop motor
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Related

h-bridge will not stop motor

e14 Contributor
e14 Contributor over 12 years ago

image

 

I built most of this circuit, but before I finished it I connected the motor to just one tip125 then to the tip120 on the other side

of the bridge.  I was glad I did because I could never get the tip120 to turn off.  It is an H-bridge that is controlled by

(hopefully) an arduino.  I am hoping to use an op amp to amp the voltage from the arduino to then control the two 2n4403

transistors.  My problem is the signal from the small 2n4403 to the h-bridge transistors never goes to ground.  I tried controlling

it with potentiometers and whatever I tried I could not turn off the tip120 s with the 2n4403.  I can control the tip125 s well enough

but that doesn't make a working h-bridge.  Any help with this would be appreciated.

 

schematic made with easyeda.com software

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Top Replies

  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 12 years ago in reply to jw0752 +1
    John is quite right. You need some resistors on the base of Q1, 2, 3 and 4 to stop any leakage current from holding them on. A 1K or 10K should enough. Q1, Q2 should go to +12v, while Q3, Q4 should go…
Parents
  • D_Hersey
    D_Hersey over 12 years ago

    We shouldn't ignore the diodes that are already come with the Darlingtons when considering this circuit.  Two ways to avoid using the parasitic diode is to install a blocking diode or shunt them with a lower-drop diode such as a Shottky.  These diodes typically have half the current-carrying capacity as the primary conduction path.

    Base-emmiter shut-off resistors should be considered.

    One fairly easy way to avoid the negative effects of(simultaneous activation of the PU and the PD [for John: pull-up, pull down]) punch-through (and solve some other problems as well) is to put a constant current sink between the H-drive and ground.

    Another way to avoid punch-through would be to use four-wire control.

    I'd probably use something like an HC'49 to drive the power Q's for the push-pull.

    The clamping scheme shown here is first-order and will cause the motor to have low torque toward the end-of-step.

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  • D_Hersey
    D_Hersey over 12 years ago

    We shouldn't ignore the diodes that are already come with the Darlingtons when considering this circuit.  Two ways to avoid using the parasitic diode is to install a blocking diode or shunt them with a lower-drop diode such as a Shottky.  These diodes typically have half the current-carrying capacity as the primary conduction path.

    Base-emmiter shut-off resistors should be considered.

    One fairly easy way to avoid the negative effects of(simultaneous activation of the PU and the PD [for John: pull-up, pull down]) punch-through (and solve some other problems as well) is to put a constant current sink between the H-drive and ground.

    Another way to avoid punch-through would be to use four-wire control.

    I'd probably use something like an HC'49 to drive the power Q's for the push-pull.

    The clamping scheme shown here is first-order and will cause the motor to have low torque toward the end-of-step.

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