Please help us with our school project!

Would you please post what phone and what make (or at least distributor) the HC06 board is?

Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) is easier than BT3.0, but can still be confusing.  I do notice in your code sample there are no BLE connection parameters.  Are you assuming the devices are already linked?

hi sussiesjoqvist

HC06 is probably the most widely available Bluetooth adapter; provided the Android App is working correctly, it shouldn't be too difficult to establish communications.

The first thing you must do is PAIR the phone with the HC06 - if the phone needs it, the default pairing code is 1234.

Only then can the App establish a connection to the HC06, and the light on the HC06 will stop flashing

Hope this helps you to get started

Neil

If you have issues with the BT, first check ifyour module HC06 is working.

Suggest suppling the module, make a short-circuit between Tx and Rx.

Use any app for making a SPP bluetooth connection and send data over serial, for exemple 'Bluechat'.

Then connect the app with the module over bluetooth (it is clasical bt, not ble).

If everything works, any char you send with the app, will be sent and get it back over BT.

Then it will be time to connect it to the arduino uart, and try a simple program, i.e. open the box when receive 'A', and close when receive 'B'. And check if it works with bluechat, before build your own app.

The described option is with classical bluetooth, with the SPP (serial port profile), you can do it also with BLE, but it works different, and has no spp.

I did an app using bluetooth (spp), I used it with RN42 instead of HC06, but I shoul work equal.

MODBUS master in my cell phone

Wow, great project idea! I don't have any particular advice myself, but let me promote this post around the Community and see if we can get the experts in to have a look

Hi, Just saw the posting, and I am always happy to jump into the mix for education.

The described requirements talk of two elements being used. An Arduino to handle the lock on the box, and an Android (or similar) app to enter information.

The classic mistake at this point is to want both ends to do all the work. Creating the object model of the problem, the lock doesn't need to know all the questions, only if it is open or closed.  The lock can also keep track of stages (completion of a task), like tumblers in a lock. The control of the tumblers can then be provided access by a secured link, like the key of a lock.

By separating the application in question, which would very likely be the Android application and treating the box with a lock it disconnects the components to workable sizes.  The app would keep track of information, and change the questions that need to be solved to gain access. It would also be possible to have multiple inputs for each person in the worker set, for a team effort (everybody needs to complete their task before the box opens).

Need to add some additional comments...

For the locking mechanism, using a solenoid, actuated latch would probably work better than a servo motor, unless the project lessons specifically cover use of servo motors. The gratifying buzz of the electromagnet opening the lock is very exciting.  Also, a visual confirmation from the box would probably be helpful, red / green LEDs for each of the "tumblers" so progress toward goal is acknowledged.

Generally, projects needs hands-on approach, i can't help it without owning the HC-06 bluetooth module which is pre-programmed with serial port profile. If i own one i would have done the project and send you the code by now...hope someone will help you who owns the module.

Ok I'm going to toss in my 2 cents worth..

First a locked box is a no brainer. but you will need something more than a 9v battery.

1. Get your self an electric lock, a wall wart (power), and relay.  12-VDC-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-PUSH-PULL-SOLENOID

and your done..

Caveats:

• The relay board shown below is each relay needs a separate input. Make sure that the board is optocoupled!! So If you had 8 boxes you need 8 outputs..
• You could use an I/O decoder 4x16 (CD54HC4514) might need level shifter
• OR use a I²C expander ie. no level shifter required. Easy Peasy!!
• Make sure the wart, 12vdc @ 1000w or 1Anp or greater, that can handle the current of your solenoid.

Thanks for listening.

Cris H.

Here are some part that i have some images for you but IF you are going to do easy then this (prototype) is what you really need.

we need a function called lock and it needs to be passed a value of the box's solenoid.

int lock( int box ){

int status = 0;

  switch box:{

     case 1{

         // send I2C command to box open

        break};

     case 2{

        break;};

     case 3{

        break;};

    default {

        status = 1;

       // error -- do something }}}

return( status;) }

now you could and will call the Ic2 library to do the deed.

food for thought:

use a array to hold your I2c stuff   i2c[0][i2c command string][name] or use a struct: but   im getting ahead of you most likely.

struct I2c_s {but

char name[50];  // this is for the name this must be NULL terminated.  ie \n

char command[100]; // remember \n

}

struct i2c_s i2c[10]; this gives you ten boxes.

you might want to make the function a int that why you can pass back info fail, why who, etc.

int status = (lock( n))

if( status != 0 ) then do something..

or just

if((status = lock(n)) != 0 )  then do something..

Ops afterthought....

the I2c bus is designed for very short cable lengths So if you want longer cables then you can use CAN bus (stuff in your card shield cost about 2 bucks.)

Wow. Nice to see people making such nice projects at school level.