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Arduino Forum Arduino and Transistors Question - RE: School Musical Production
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Related

Arduino and Transistors Question - RE: School Musical Production

wallarug
wallarug over 11 years ago

One of the directors has asked me to create a special backdrop for our college musical. This particular backdrop has a particular design (see below) that includes LED strip lighting to give the feel of a 1920s casino sign – similar to what is seen today in Las Vegas.

I  have done up a detailed design for this sign, based off the rough sketch given to me by the director and the dimensions of the backdrop.  On this diagram, the arrangement of the LED strip lighting can be seen.

image

          

The LED Strip lighting that will be bought for this project will be sourced from Jaycar – “Low Cost 5m Flexible Adhesive LED Strip Light – Warm White” (ZD0577).  According to the specifications off Jaycar’s website, these LED lights need 1.1 Amps per metre @ 12 volts.  This means that the longest segments of lights need 1.1 * 1.5 = 1.65 Amps of power (rounded up by 20% for safety: 2.0 Amps @ 12 volts).

 

This would not be an issue if I was just turning these LED Strips on and off with mains power BUT I want to control these LEDs via an Arduino, so that they can do fancy things like flash and chase.  That means that I would need a circuit to control these lights with an Arduino so that everything remains safe and does not blow up.

I have come up with this circuit (below) using a couple of NPN transistors and two power supplies.  In the diagram below, I am aware that the transistor pinouts are EBC.  The ones I am going to buy have a pinout of BCE.

 

image

 

The only problem with this is that I have very little understanding of transistor circuits.  What this circuit has to be able to do is:

  • Using the smallest amount of current from the Arduino (at 5 volts) or a Raspberry Pi (3v3 volts), turn on the circuit to allow the 12 volts that powers the LED strip lighting to flow.

 

I was thinking of using either TIP41C NPN Transistors (in a darlington Array) or TIP122 NPN transistors.

 

This circuit will be replicated 8 times over to accommodate for the number of LEDs I am controlling.

 

 

Can anyone help me:

  1. Design a circuit that will work 100% and will be safe (ie: low heat)
    1. This includes base resistance
  1. Confirm which transistors I should be using for this project.

 

Any help will be much appreciated.

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  • Robert Peter Oakes
    Robert Peter Oakes over 11 years ago +1
    Sorry the one I suggested wont work, but this one should http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZK8821 10+ current rating and at 0.016ohms it should be good for your needs pdf here http://www.vishay…
  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to jw0752 +1
    John If you are referring to this It means that at a gate voltage of 1.6 typ, a current of 250uA will be flowing in the Drain. If you look here, you can see that from 3 to 3.3v will give you enough to…
  • D_Hersey
    D_Hersey over 11 years ago +1
    Solenoid Whapper:
Parents
  • D_Hersey
    0 D_Hersey over 11 years ago

    Solenoid
    Whapper:

     

    image

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  • D_Hersey
    0 D_Hersey over 11 years ago

    Solenoid
    Whapper:

     

    image

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to D_Hersey

    Don

    I agree using an opto-coupler is a much better method to get isolation.

    Its also very easy to prove/test by substituting a led in its place.

     

     

    Mark

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  • Problemchild
    0 Problemchild over 11 years ago in reply to mcb1

    Yep fundamentally isolated from the Arduino, we should of been able to test the transsister version easily as well though Mark,it's all getting over complicated  for switching a few LEDs

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to Problemchild

    it's all getting over complicated  for switching a few LEDs

     

    I think what wallrug has done is produce something that suits other uses.

    It is inevitable that someone will want to add a second string/ longer string, so he produced a rugged interface.

     

    There has been some learning along the way, so not all is lost.

    The component cost is relatively low, for the capacity of the interface.

     

    I did have a look around at some commercial units, and there isn't really anything offered.

    I have previously seen a shield, and picaxe have something, but it surprises me that our Asian friends don't have an isolated 4 FET driver board.

     

    Mark

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  • Problemchild
    0 Problemchild over 11 years ago in reply to mcb1

    True the whole bunch of fets, transistors and optoisolators probably don't come up to £2.

    The learning experience is worth much much more. I was a little concerned that we werent able to test the last NPN transistor build but the opto is the gold standard solution anyway!

     

    I think the nearest we get to an "Asian" solution are those opto isolated relay boards. not sure if they are Opto -Transistor -Relay or just Opto -Relay. Either way you cant do PWM for fast switching with that imageimage

     

    Good luck as stated before

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  • Problemchild
    0 Problemchild over 11 years ago in reply to Problemchild

    Speak of the devil here's something quite close, and in the UK too!

     

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Double-high-power-motor-driver-4A-24V-Arduino-Raspberry-/281223955355?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item417a41039b

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  • Robert Peter Oakes
    0 Robert Peter Oakes over 11 years ago in reply to mcb1

    Though driving a Relay by nature provides the isolation image, that's also a lot of transistors to drive a single relay, if the relay where replaced with the LEDs, the OPTO can drive the Darlington pair directly without the additional FET

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  • Robert Peter Oakes
    0 Robert Peter Oakes over 11 years ago in reply to Problemchild

    They are OPTO isolated, I have an 8 channel version and they work very well, but your not going to do PWM with the relays

     

    At the end of the day I would have gone with the 5V WS2812B LEDs and use a single pin to control all of them, no fets, no mus no fuss. but that would increase the cost to about 20 cents per LED but the display would be awesome.

     

    Given the limited range of transmission and required current needs I still would have stuck to the single Logic Level FET per channel and that would have been it. (That's the practical approach anyway)

    from an educational perspective, it has been a good learning experience for wallarug

     

    I do have to say in addition, using the pin set as an input would work to a limited amount but you will as stated above loose the built in PWM (Could be done in software), and it is not a good practice to get into, especially not for the sake of a missing resistor.

     

    A floating base is suitable to noise and other issues and could in the right condition still turn on the lights or make them flicker, you also risk blowing an output pin of the controller if you inadvertently set it as an output and drive it high, your effectively shorting it to ground through a diode (Base to Emitter junction)

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  • wallarug
    0 wallarug over 11 years ago in reply to Robert Peter Oakes

    Just to confirm for you guys:

    1.  The circuit works without the 2K2 Resistor going to NPN base.

      i) Including ON/OFF

      ii) Including PWM

    2.  I will add the extra Resistor between the NPN base and arduino (because I do believe that it is necessary to protect the Arduino).

     

     

    I agree with all of you:  there should be someone (in china) who produces these on mass production.

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  • dougw
    0 dougw over 11 years ago in reply to wallarug

    Like this?

    http://www.digole.com/index.php?productID=631

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  • wallarug
    0 wallarug over 11 years ago in reply to dougw

    Douglas Wong wrote:

     

    Like this?

    http://www.digole.com/index.php?productID=631

    That x 10  image.

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