For these sort of projects around my house, if my n isn't too great, what I do first is build a box to contain my (solid-state-relay) SSR. I get an electronics box that is sand-cast rather than made from sheet metal. I like Hammond Industries of Indiana because they make sturdy stuff. I would get a good-quality SSR from a major manufacturer, rated for at least 20 Amperes. Try to get one that features zero-cross switching and inductive load capability. This goes in the box. You can get power inlet (get one with a fuse) and outlet modules that go on the box. You will need to cut/file rounded-cornered rectangular holes to mount them, but that is easier than messing with strain-relief pliers in low quantities. You have three lines from the power co. Hot, Return and Neutral. Hot is a black wire associated with the thinner blade. This is what you switch with the relay. Return, the white wire associated with the the thicker blade, goes straight through the box. Ground, green wire, central, roundish blade goes straight through, but requires a robust electrical attach to the chassis. Be sure to use a SS star-washer, to scrape through the oxide layer on the box. Don't even use a crimp connector, screw the solid wire onto the inside of the box. This is the one connection that mustn't fail. Use a self-tapping screw from the cost-killer's electrical aisle intended for this purpose. Use beefy wires for the high-current path. Green gnd is supposed to be the thickest of all, just preponderant. Use a slightly bigger box than necessary. This is good thermally, easier on our fabricator, and provisions space for a terminal block should we decide to use one for any protection stuff we may decide to add later.
Skinny wires can connect to the control side of the SSR. I use a mini stereo jack that has three connectors. I use tip for +in and first ring for -in. I float the outermost ring, but this automatically attaches the shield of my cable to chassis gnd. I think I am supposed to put a 'not audio' label on the input. I get a chassis-mount led set-up, toss in a ballast R, and shunt my SSR input with it. This gives me an indicator light that is useful when I want to test a system with out hooking up the end-effectors.
This is not the cheapest way to go but it is the best way. Now you have a fungible relay-box that can be used for other projects. This also allows us to make the choice of control circuit later, while getting significant work done sooner.
For these sort of projects around my house, if my n isn't too great, what I do first is build a box to contain my (solid-state-relay) SSR. I get an electronics box that is sand-cast rather than made from sheet metal. I like Hammond Industries of Indiana because they make sturdy stuff. I would get a good-quality SSR from a major manufacturer, rated for at least 20 Amperes. Try to get one that features zero-cross switching and inductive load capability. This goes in the box. You can get power inlet (get one with a fuse) and outlet modules that go on the box. You will need to cut/file rounded-cornered rectangular holes to mount them, but that is easier than messing with strain-relief pliers in low quantities. You have three lines from the power co. Hot, Return and Neutral. Hot is a black wire associated with the thinner blade. This is what you switch with the relay. Return, the white wire associated with the the thicker blade, goes straight through the box. Ground, green wire, central, roundish blade goes straight through, but requires a robust electrical attach to the chassis. Be sure to use a SS star-washer, to scrape through the oxide layer on the box. Don't even use a crimp connector, screw the solid wire onto the inside of the box. This is the one connection that mustn't fail. Use a self-tapping screw from the cost-killer's electrical aisle intended for this purpose. Use beefy wires for the high-current path. Green gnd is supposed to be the thickest of all, just preponderant. Use a slightly bigger box than necessary. This is good thermally, easier on our fabricator, and provisions space for a terminal block should we decide to use one for any protection stuff we may decide to add later.
Skinny wires can connect to the control side of the SSR. I use a mini stereo jack that has three connectors. I use tip for +in and first ring for -in. I float the outermost ring, but this automatically attaches the shield of my cable to chassis gnd. I think I am supposed to put a 'not audio' label on the input. I get a chassis-mount led set-up, toss in a ballast R, and shunt my SSR input with it. This gives me an indicator light that is useful when I want to test a system with out hooking up the end-effectors.
This is not the cheapest way to go but it is the best way. Now you have a fungible relay-box that can be used for other projects. This also allows us to make the choice of control circuit later, while getting significant work done sooner.
