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EAGLE User Chat (English) How to cut solder paste stencils with a cricut.
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Related

How to cut solder paste stencils with a cricut.

Former Member
Former Member over 16 years ago

A cricut is a computerized scrapbook cutting machine.  I have worked out

the steps needed to have it cut stencils from Eagle's cream layer.

 

The short version:

-


Eagle

Layout PCB as usual.

Change the tcream layer to no fill and color to black.

Add a 2 inch line to the tcream layer.

In the print dialog check black and print to pdf box.

 

Inkscape

Import the above pdf and save as a SVG (scalable vector graphic) file.

I used the finest setting for details when importing the pdf but I do

not know that it had much of an impact. The file was 8K. To see the

graphics I needed to do a VIEW>DISPLAY_MODE>OUTLINE.

 

Sure Cuts a Lot

Load the SVG file from inkscape. SCAL has its own idea regarding what

size the graphic should be. Using the scale on the onscreen cutting

board shrink the graphic such that the 2 inch line is again 2 inches. To

do this I first zoom to 400%. Move the graphic so the left edge is on a

inch line. Then resize it so that it is 2 inches long.

 

Save the SCAL project. Load the project again and hit cut. If you try to

cut without saving and loading (or maybe just undoing the zoom) SCAL

will crash.

 

-


 

I used the demo version of SCAL.  It makes extra cuts through the

graphic to make it unusable.  They did not cause enough problem to make

the stencil unusable.  The non demo version can be had for $75 from

Craft Edge  http://www.craftedge.com/.

 

The details of how I figured this out can be found on the Electro-Tech

forum.  I have posted several images there. The thread is

http://www.electro-tech-online.com/showthread.php?p=674243#post674243

 

There are still some warts but it works.  Most are with the SCAL

software but none are show stoppers.

 

When I have worked with the method a bit more I will post a how-to on my

web site.

 

3v0

 

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Top Replies

  • autodeskguest
    autodeskguest over 16 years ago +1
    Nice project. Another more rigid way to do this i think is to etch a thin brass sheet like you etch the cirquit board. For the material go to http://www1.business.conrad.de/ and in Artikelnummernsuche…
  • Former Member
    Former Member over 16 years ago +1
    I had been planning to use the PulsarProFX toner toner transfer system to etch brass stencil plates. The Cricut more or less landed in my lap. Now that it is working I think I will stay with it, fast and…
  • michaelkellett
    michaelkellett over 4 years ago in reply to Former Member +1
    I'm impressed by your efforts but is there really any point - I'm currently paying between 5 and $10 for stainless steel stencils made along with the boards. Typically prototype boards in batches of 5…
  • autodeskguest
    autodeskguest over 16 years ago

    Nice project.

     

    Another more rigid way to do this i think is to etch a thin brass sheet

    like you etch the cirquit board.

     

    For the material go to http://www1.business.conrad.de/

    and in Artikelnummernsuche enter 529060 and press enter.

     

     

    Another idea also pops up: is the machine rigid enough to swap the knife

    for a mill to route the board.  And maybe change to drill to drill it...?

     

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  • Former Member
    Former Member over 16 years ago

    I had been planning to use the PulsarProFX toner toner transfer system

    to etch brass stencil plates.  The Cricut more or less landed in my lap.

       Now that it is working I think I will stay with it, fast and

    inexpensive.

     

    To make my boards I use a CNC mill to drill the holes using the ULP

    pcb-gcode to create a file the mill understands.  I transfer and etch

    each layer, one at a time, aligning the toner to the drilled holes.

     

    I could use the CNC to mill the boards, but I do not think one can get

    the fine lines that you can get with the Pulsar stuff. It would be much

    slower.

     

    The cricut is quite sturdy for what it is.  There may not be room for a

    mill motor.  One would have to use a flex shaft setup.  I do not know

    how well the XYZ parts would stand up to metal shavings. Then there is

    the question of software to drive it.

     

    3v0

     

    Morgan Leijström wrote:

    Nice project.

     

    Another more rigid way to do this i think is to etch a thin brass sheet

    like you etch the cirquit board.

     

    For the material go to http://www1.business.conrad.de/

    and in Artikelnummernsuche enter 529060 and press enter.

     

     

    Another idea also pops up: is the machine rigid enough to swap the knife

    for a mill to route the board.  And maybe change to drill to drill it...?

     

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  • michaelkellett
    michaelkellett over 4 years ago in reply to Former Member

    I'm impressed by your efforts but is there really any point - I'm currently paying between 5 and $10 for stainless steel stencils made along with the boards.

    Typically prototype boards in batches of 5.

     

    MK

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  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 4 years ago in reply to michaelkellett

    It might have been more expensive 12 years ago image  It’s another resurrected thread: It even got resurrected 8 years after first being posted!  Ironically, I read it because my wife has just bought herself a cricut machine and now our house is full of cardboard cut outs.

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  • michaelkellett
    michaelkellett over 4 years ago in reply to Andrew J

    @Andrew J    I didn't notice the **!?$ date.

     

    You are quite correct, I've only quite recently been able to get proper stencils at the sub $50 level.

     

    MK

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