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It works!

johnbeetem
johnbeetem over 13 years ago

I got my RasPi today!  It works pretty well, and I did not have much trouble bringing it up.  Since I've been watching and commenting here at element14 and in the raspberrypi.org Troubleshooting section for some time, let's see how my RasPi compares to her sisters:

 

1.  Before plugging my RasPi in, I checked the resistance of the polyfuses to see if they will deteriorate over time.  I don't have a proper low resistance meter which nulls out lead resistance, so these are approximate.  The main power fuse F3 was less than 0.2 Ohm.  The two USB fuses F1 and F2 were 2.0 - 2.2 Ohm.  I don't care about them, because I'll be using a powered hub.

 

2.  I'm using a powered USB hub to provide power to RasPi.  My power supply is based on a Linear Tech demo board and gives very reliable 5V which powers my USB hub.  The resistance from power supply GND to RasPi TP2 is less than 0.1 Ohm.  However, the resistance from power supply +5V to RasPi TP1 seem to be at least 0.5 Ohm.  My micro USB cable obviously has better GND conduction (probably a foil shield) than +5V conduction (1 meter of 28 AWG).  I think the +5V resistance is pretty well shared by the micro USB cable and F3.

 

3.  The procedure described at raspberrypi.org and the RasPi wiki for downloading Debian and copying the image to an SD card (GNU/Linux command line) worked perfectly.  It took a while to download 443 MB from the mirror and to copy the uncompressed 2 GB to a Class 4 SanDisk microSD card, but there were no problems.

 

4.  RasPi booted the first time (wow!), in spite of some power supply problems.  My power supply produces +5V from whatever 9V-12V wall wart I have handy.  The first one I used did not provide enough current for RasPi (it works quite well for BeagleBoard thank you very much) and this caused my monitor to be unstable, occasionally blanking out and showing green "static".  I switched to a more powerful wall wart and RasPi booted perfectly with no display problems.

 

5.  My particular RasPi seems to work with surprisingly low voltage.  When I get the login prompt my TP1-TP2 voltage is just 4.65V.  When I start up X Windows it drops to 4.60V.  I guess my peripherals don't need anything like the USB 4.75V minimum.  I'm using a NEC DVI-D monitor which didn't require any config.txt options, along with Logitech wired keyboard and mouse.  I'm guessing that these are all 3.3V devices and having 4.60V HDMI and USB voltages doesn't faze them.  The monitor is actually connected through a cheap "HDMI Switcher".

 

6.  I tried Midori and connected to raspberrypi.org to announce success.  Ethernet came up and automatically congfigured to my router just fine.  However, Midori did not run well -- normally consuming all compute time -- so I gave up.  I'm going to see if assigning the Level 2 cache to the ARM CPU helps.  GUI-based terminals and text editor were responsive and I had no problem writing and compiling "Hello, World" except that I need to set my keyboard to USA if I want to type any punctuation.

 

7.  My RasPi gets quite warm.  I wouldn't say blazing hot -- I can leave my finger tip on the SoC and LAN chip for several seconds.  The back of the board gets very warm.  I'm thinking of adding heat sinks and a thermal pad, but first I'm going to try mounting RasPi vertically so that air can flow past both sides.  I'm concerned that the high temperature will cause F3 resistance to increase, lowering my 4.65V down to something that makes the board fail.  This might be the cause of some of the "RasPi works for a while and then stops" posts we've seen in the Troubleshooting section.  I'm planning to put a low-resistance non-resettable fuse in parallel with F3 to prevent F3 problems.  This should get my 4.65V up to 4.8V, which is plenty.  If 5V0 gets too high, RG2 has to work harder and that makes the board hotter.  So I think keeping my present USB cable may actually help things.

 

8.  Yay, Debian already includes libXft.so!  That's the only unusual library I need to port my software.

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  • morgaine
    morgaine over 13 years ago

    Yay, I received my Pi at last! image

     

    Following John's good precedent, I measured my polyfuse resistances to be:

    F1 = 4.0 ohms

    F2 = 3.2 ohms

    F3 = 0.3 ohms (but maybe close to 0.2, occasional flicker), LS digit questionable

     

    These values are a lot higher than John's.  I used two different DVMs, one of them a costly Fluke (although not calibrated), but neither has probe lead resistance nulling (I subtracted the 0.2 and 0.3 ohms indicated when the probes are shorted).

     

    Allowing for the lead offsets, the two DVMs track each other perfectly across this range, so I have confidence in the results.  I don't regard the F3 reading as reliable, since it's on the least significant digit displayed.  It's too high for comfort though (0.5 and 0.6 ohm readings on the DVMs) --- in effect the board's +5V is unregulated because of it.

     

    F1 and F2 are outrageously high of course, and do more harm than good by deregulating the supply even further.  This is a plain and simple design fault.  Also, the fact that F1 and F2 have so greatly differing resistances is a worry --- clearly this component does not have a tightly defined resistance parameter, even worse when compared with John's.

     

    I haven't powered the board up yet, as I must be the only person on the planet without a micro-USB charger. image

     

    I'll pop out and buy one today, or an adapter for a barrel connector or something.

     

    Morgaine.

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  • morgaine
    morgaine over 13 years ago in reply to morgaine

    Followup to measuring the polyfuses and shopping for a few means of applying power to the Pi ...

     

    Short version:  everything worked first time, but the Pi is piping hot!  image

     

    Longer version:  Maplins came up trumps with lots of options for micro-USB power.  This one ---http://www.maplin.co.uk/micro-usb-power-supply-393067  --- even says "Can be used with the Raspberry Pi system" on the product page, lol.  Everyone is getting in on the Pi bandwagon. image

     

    That 1A power supply (which does seem to deserve the name, rather than merely "charger") supplies my Pi with 5.01V at the input to polyfuse F3, and I see 4.89V at TP1, when running a basic system load comprised of a Logitech universal receiver which runs totally cold, Ethernet, and HDMI into the HDMI input on a Dell 2408 monitor at 1920x1200.

     

    Pulling out the Ethernet cable raised TP1 by 30mV without any significant change at the input.to F3, so this supply is regulating and its lead seems to be very good.  Pulling out the Logitech receiver raises TP1 by only 10mV.  Pulling out the HDMI lead has no effect on TP1.  My peripherals are taking very little current.

     

    Under these condition, the finger test applied to the SoC/PoP (which BTW is a Samsung) has to be removed in under 10 seconds to avoid pain.  Applied to the LAN chip, the finger has to be removed almost instantly --- this device is running very hot indeed, both with and without the LAN cable.

     

    Nothing else to report really.  I don't know Debian specifically but experience from many other distros made everything easy.  The nearest thing to a hiccup was that "apt-get install gpm" failed to configure the mouse, so I had to modify /etc/gpm.conf slightly before it would work (changed the mouse device to /dev/input/mice).

     

    As an aside, I also bought http://www.maplin.co.uk/high-power-usb-charger-with-travel-adaptors-513509 on the expectation that its 2.1 A rating would quite likely offer better regulation, but that's not what I observed:  it delivers 4.75V at TP1 under the same load described above.  The blame might lie with the lead rather than the charger (haven't checked yet), but that's not what appearances would suggest as the lead is nearly twice as thick as the one on the better supply.  Of course, the extra thickness could be all plastic. image

     

    So, a successful start with my Pi, but running the LAN9512 that hot is a bit worrying.

     

    Morgaine.

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  • johnbeetem
    johnbeetem over 13 years ago in reply to morgaine

    Morgaine Dinova wrote:

     

    Under these condition, the finger test applied to the SoC/PoP (which BTW is a Samsung) has to be removed in under 10 seconds to avoid pain.  Applied to the LAN chip, the finger has to be removed almost instantly --- this device is running very hot indeed, both with and without the LAN cable.

     

    So, a successful start with my Pi, but running the LAN9512 that hot is a bit worrying.

     

    Morgaine.

    Thank you for the write-up.  It's interesting that the RasPi forum doesn't seem to have a place to write up success, only problems :-)

     

    It would be interesting to find out the LAN9512 temperature range seen in the field.  Some people have reported blazing hot as you have, others something more reasonable.  My fear regarding the LAN9512 is that its thermal performance may depend heavily on how well its large ground pad is soldered, which is impossible to see without an X-ray (if then).  How hot is the back side of your board?  When I first picked up my RasPi after running her the first time, the back side (which was sitting on the anti-static bag) was very hot. That's when I decided to get out some tools and make my vertical mount frame.  Radiating from both sides keeps her very comfy.

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  • johnbeetem
    johnbeetem over 13 years ago in reply to morgaine

    Morgaine Dinova wrote:

     

    Under these condition, the finger test applied to the SoC/PoP (which BTW is a Samsung) has to be removed in under 10 seconds to avoid pain.  Applied to the LAN chip, the finger has to be removed almost instantly --- this device is running very hot indeed, both with and without the LAN cable.

     

    So, a successful start with my Pi, but running the LAN9512 that hot is a bit worrying.

     

    Morgaine.

    Thank you for the write-up.  It's interesting that the RasPi forum doesn't seem to have a place to write up success, only problems :-)

     

    It would be interesting to find out the LAN9512 temperature range seen in the field.  Some people have reported blazing hot as you have, others something more reasonable.  My fear regarding the LAN9512 is that its thermal performance may depend heavily on how well its large ground pad is soldered, which is impossible to see without an X-ray (if then).  How hot is the back side of your board?  When I first picked up my RasPi after running her the first time, the back side (which was sitting on the anti-static bag) was very hot. That's when I decided to get out some tools and make my vertical mount frame.  Radiating from both sides keeps her very comfy.

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