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It works!

johnbeetem
johnbeetem over 13 years ago

I got my RasPi today!  It works pretty well, and I did not have much trouble bringing it up.  Since I've been watching and commenting here at element14 and in the raspberrypi.org Troubleshooting section for some time, let's see how my RasPi compares to her sisters:

 

1.  Before plugging my RasPi in, I checked the resistance of the polyfuses to see if they will deteriorate over time.  I don't have a proper low resistance meter which nulls out lead resistance, so these are approximate.  The main power fuse F3 was less than 0.2 Ohm.  The two USB fuses F1 and F2 were 2.0 - 2.2 Ohm.  I don't care about them, because I'll be using a powered hub.

 

2.  I'm using a powered USB hub to provide power to RasPi.  My power supply is based on a Linear Tech demo board and gives very reliable 5V which powers my USB hub.  The resistance from power supply GND to RasPi TP2 is less than 0.1 Ohm.  However, the resistance from power supply +5V to RasPi TP1 seem to be at least 0.5 Ohm.  My micro USB cable obviously has better GND conduction (probably a foil shield) than +5V conduction (1 meter of 28 AWG).  I think the +5V resistance is pretty well shared by the micro USB cable and F3.

 

3.  The procedure described at raspberrypi.org and the RasPi wiki for downloading Debian and copying the image to an SD card (GNU/Linux command line) worked perfectly.  It took a while to download 443 MB from the mirror and to copy the uncompressed 2 GB to a Class 4 SanDisk microSD card, but there were no problems.

 

4.  RasPi booted the first time (wow!), in spite of some power supply problems.  My power supply produces +5V from whatever 9V-12V wall wart I have handy.  The first one I used did not provide enough current for RasPi (it works quite well for BeagleBoard thank you very much) and this caused my monitor to be unstable, occasionally blanking out and showing green "static".  I switched to a more powerful wall wart and RasPi booted perfectly with no display problems.

 

5.  My particular RasPi seems to work with surprisingly low voltage.  When I get the login prompt my TP1-TP2 voltage is just 4.65V.  When I start up X Windows it drops to 4.60V.  I guess my peripherals don't need anything like the USB 4.75V minimum.  I'm using a NEC DVI-D monitor which didn't require any config.txt options, along with Logitech wired keyboard and mouse.  I'm guessing that these are all 3.3V devices and having 4.60V HDMI and USB voltages doesn't faze them.  The monitor is actually connected through a cheap "HDMI Switcher".

 

6.  I tried Midori and connected to raspberrypi.org to announce success.  Ethernet came up and automatically congfigured to my router just fine.  However, Midori did not run well -- normally consuming all compute time -- so I gave up.  I'm going to see if assigning the Level 2 cache to the ARM CPU helps.  GUI-based terminals and text editor were responsive and I had no problem writing and compiling "Hello, World" except that I need to set my keyboard to USA if I want to type any punctuation.

 

7.  My RasPi gets quite warm.  I wouldn't say blazing hot -- I can leave my finger tip on the SoC and LAN chip for several seconds.  The back of the board gets very warm.  I'm thinking of adding heat sinks and a thermal pad, but first I'm going to try mounting RasPi vertically so that air can flow past both sides.  I'm concerned that the high temperature will cause F3 resistance to increase, lowering my 4.65V down to something that makes the board fail.  This might be the cause of some of the "RasPi works for a while and then stops" posts we've seen in the Troubleshooting section.  I'm planning to put a low-resistance non-resettable fuse in parallel with F3 to prevent F3 problems.  This should get my 4.65V up to 4.8V, which is plenty.  If 5V0 gets too high, RG2 has to work harder and that makes the board hotter.  So I think keeping my present USB cable may actually help things.

 

8.  Yay, Debian already includes libXft.so!  That's the only unusual library I need to port my software.

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  • morgaine
    morgaine over 13 years ago

    Yay, I received my Pi at last! image

     

    Following John's good precedent, I measured my polyfuse resistances to be:

    F1 = 4.0 ohms

    F2 = 3.2 ohms

    F3 = 0.3 ohms (but maybe close to 0.2, occasional flicker), LS digit questionable

     

    These values are a lot higher than John's.  I used two different DVMs, one of them a costly Fluke (although not calibrated), but neither has probe lead resistance nulling (I subtracted the 0.2 and 0.3 ohms indicated when the probes are shorted).

     

    Allowing for the lead offsets, the two DVMs track each other perfectly across this range, so I have confidence in the results.  I don't regard the F3 reading as reliable, since it's on the least significant digit displayed.  It's too high for comfort though (0.5 and 0.6 ohm readings on the DVMs) --- in effect the board's +5V is unregulated because of it.

     

    F1 and F2 are outrageously high of course, and do more harm than good by deregulating the supply even further.  This is a plain and simple design fault.  Also, the fact that F1 and F2 have so greatly differing resistances is a worry --- clearly this component does not have a tightly defined resistance parameter, even worse when compared with John's.

     

    I haven't powered the board up yet, as I must be the only person on the planet without a micro-USB charger. image

     

    I'll pop out and buy one today, or an adapter for a barrel connector or something.

     

    Morgaine.

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  • rew
    rew over 13 years ago in reply to morgaine

    Haha! so much time on the forums and then didn't prepare for the coming of the 'pi.


    There are way to many people who say things like: this won't work. just from a theoretical viewpoint.

     

    0.3 ohms at max 0.7A will give you 0.2V maximum drop.

     

    With a proper regulated 5.0V powersupply, that will give you 4.8 to 5.0V on the line labeled "+5V" on the raspberry pi.

     

    Why the F*** do you think that won't work? The 5V is connected to the 3.3V LDO. That will work downto 4.3V AT LEAST (i.e. at maximum load on the regulator, but the 'pi is using less). The 5V is connected to the line labeled "VBAT" on the BCM2835. That leads me to suspect that this is intended to work on a single cell LIPO. So it should work downto about 3.0V, but AT LEAST to 3.3V.

     

    Next it goes to the USB ports. If you read the USB specs, devices are required to work down to somewhere in the low 4V. Not all do, but they are not USB compliant. They migth work on lots of other USB ports that do deliver a higher voltage, but the remain out of spec.

     

    So with a worst-case 4.8V (4.9 in practise) at the top of F1 and F2, and a 100mA max powerdraw, we'd loose another 0.4V with the 4 ohms on those fuses. That's indeed close to spec.

     

    If an USB device doesn't work, you have several options.

    * Get a different device that does work.

    * Get a powered hub in between.

    * short out F1 and/or F2.

    * if that doesn't help enough, short out F3 as well.

     

    When you start shorting out those fuses, you'll be relying on the current limiting on the power supply. No big deal. Connect it to a PC powersupply and start shorting out things on the GPIO port and you'll be able to start a fire. Don't do that then!

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  • morgaine
    morgaine over 13 years ago in reply to rew

    Roger Wolff wrote:

     

    With a proper regulated 5.0V powersupply, that will give you 4.8 to 5.0V on the line labeled "+5V" on the raspberry pi.

     

    And what exactly does a "proper regulated 5.0V powersupply" have to do with a USB cellphone charger?  Virtually nothing in practice.  It's no use talking theory, or saying there's a proper spec for USB chargers, when massive experience in the Pi community has shown that cellphone chargers are very commonly unadulterated junk, and very frequently you have to try several before you find one that works at all even when they claim adequate amperage.

     

    It's wrong to think of it as a "power supply", which conjures up ideas of stability, regulation, protection, and even some reasonable headroom.  It's just a charger, and it's made to the lowest possible spec and with the worst quality materials they can get away with.  The cellphone market is totally cutthroat and cellphones are given away free with phone contracts, so it doesn't surprise me in the slightest that the situation is as bad as it is.

     

    The end result is not a supply voltage you can rely on, and making the situation worse with extra drop across a 0.3 ohm polyfuse is not clever when the Pi is specifically targetted at using cellphone chargers as its power source owing to the micro-USB connector.

     

    Why the F*** do you think that won't work?

     

    FUSE? image

     

    To answer seriously though, it will work in many cases, but it's marginal ,and it's poor design because it causes substantial loss of regulation.

     

    The worst part of this though is the coupling together of distinct power paths, totally unnecessarily.  Nothing you connect to the Pi can expect a stable voltage source even if you provide one at the micro-USB input, because F3 deregulates it for all sinks on the board, including the two USBs and the P1 header.  Under no circumstances can the Pi's power design be considered satisfactory when it turns a regulated supply into a highly unregulated one.

     

    Just because the nominal +5V for the two USBs might stay within USB spec (if you're lucky), this doesn't mean that it's good power design for something that is powered by P1-pin2 to experience a sizeable voltage drop whenever USB usage changes.  There's nothing wrong with using cheap polyfuses, but the power paths should not be coupled in this way.  F3 should control the SoC alone, F1 and F2 should tap off the power input connector, and P1-pin2 should have an independent polyfuse also tapping directly off the input connector.  F3 as it stands is a misdesign, and all the trip values are too low.

     

    Morgaine.

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  • morgaine
    morgaine over 13 years ago in reply to rew

    Roger Wolff wrote:

     

    With a proper regulated 5.0V powersupply, that will give you 4.8 to 5.0V on the line labeled "+5V" on the raspberry pi.

     

    And what exactly does a "proper regulated 5.0V powersupply" have to do with a USB cellphone charger?  Virtually nothing in practice.  It's no use talking theory, or saying there's a proper spec for USB chargers, when massive experience in the Pi community has shown that cellphone chargers are very commonly unadulterated junk, and very frequently you have to try several before you find one that works at all even when they claim adequate amperage.

     

    It's wrong to think of it as a "power supply", which conjures up ideas of stability, regulation, protection, and even some reasonable headroom.  It's just a charger, and it's made to the lowest possible spec and with the worst quality materials they can get away with.  The cellphone market is totally cutthroat and cellphones are given away free with phone contracts, so it doesn't surprise me in the slightest that the situation is as bad as it is.

     

    The end result is not a supply voltage you can rely on, and making the situation worse with extra drop across a 0.3 ohm polyfuse is not clever when the Pi is specifically targetted at using cellphone chargers as its power source owing to the micro-USB connector.

     

    Why the F*** do you think that won't work?

     

    FUSE? image

     

    To answer seriously though, it will work in many cases, but it's marginal ,and it's poor design because it causes substantial loss of regulation.

     

    The worst part of this though is the coupling together of distinct power paths, totally unnecessarily.  Nothing you connect to the Pi can expect a stable voltage source even if you provide one at the micro-USB input, because F3 deregulates it for all sinks on the board, including the two USBs and the P1 header.  Under no circumstances can the Pi's power design be considered satisfactory when it turns a regulated supply into a highly unregulated one.

     

    Just because the nominal +5V for the two USBs might stay within USB spec (if you're lucky), this doesn't mean that it's good power design for something that is powered by P1-pin2 to experience a sizeable voltage drop whenever USB usage changes.  There's nothing wrong with using cheap polyfuses, but the power paths should not be coupled in this way.  F3 should control the SoC alone, F1 and F2 should tap off the power input connector, and P1-pin2 should have an independent polyfuse also tapping directly off the input connector.  F3 as it stands is a misdesign, and all the trip values are too low.

     

    Morgaine.

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  • rew
    rew over 13 years ago in reply to morgaine

    Morgaine Dinova wrote:

     

    And what exactly does a "proper regulated 5.0V powersupply" have to do with a USB cellphone charger?  Virtually nothing in practice.  It's no use talking theory, or saying there's a proper spec for USB chargers, when massive experience in the Pi community has shown that cellphone chargers are very commonly unadulterated junk, and very frequently you have to try several before you find one that works at all even when they claim adequate amperage.

    Nobody has convinced me of such a thing. Before the first raspberry pi's were being delivered, I started making noises that even though the power supplies might be up to spec, most cables are not.


    We have measured whole ohms in cables we had lying around.

     

    Of course, people have reported that when they got a better USB-charger the pi suddenly started working. But with the high quality charger, they also got a better cable. So it's quite possible they used the new cable as well. And of course they stopped testing the moment the 'pi started working. So it's the new usb charger that did the job.

     

    Pete Lomas who, as far as I know, worked on both the schematics and the layout of the 'pi. Has his habits. He's overly cautios about overvoltages, decoupling capacitors, and fuses. So there are a bunch of "extra" capacitors on the board that wouldn't have been necessary. There are a bunch of clamping diodes that 99% of the users will never use. And there are a bunch of fuses that some (including me) think are redundant.

     

    And a 0.14V voltage drop in practice is the consequence of the fuse. So what?

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