Featured Articles
Announcing Pi
Technical Specifications
Raspberry Pi FAQs
Win a Pi
Raspberry Pi Wishlist
Actions
Forum Thread Details
  • Replies 71 replies
  • Subscribers 718 subscribers
  • Views 8476 views
  • Users 0 members are here
Related

Gertboard - The Element14 strikes back

e14 Contributor

Oh dear. It seems that If I "Fluke PiStalker" want to obtain a Deathstar beating Gertboard from the Element14 Empire. I have to pay £30 quid and then go all "Hands Solo" from "Solder Wars" fame. (if the farce is with my at the time) Thats a big shame really cos I would have paid £40 willinging for one assemmbled by "R2D2" or some other Solder super Driod.

 

It looks then as if I will have to go remain Fluke PiStalker and wait for a Droid to build me one.

 

Come on Gert please chase the powers that be to get some assembled versions on the go for poor old guys like me whose idea or circuit assemmbly was screwing and fixing a couple of bits a BakerLite together 60 years ago. image

 

Seriously Gert a fantastic job great to see them in the wild but we cant all solder however easy it is, Take Pity Darth Gert and sort it for us.

 

That tale was NOT bought to you by any members of any film companies on the planet Earth. image

 

Just to keep the balls and games rolling ahead is my target.

 

Ray

Parents

  • Just a couple of comments from my years of experience with SMDs.

    1. Secure the PC poard to a flat peice of metal. preferably a piece of flat iron or lead..

         I use a peice of 1/4 inch iron about 4X5 inches. This will allow rotation/movement but will be very stable. Felt on the bottom will be even more stable..

         Use masking tape along two of the edges to secure the PC board. If the masking tape covers some of the pads or components it's OK.

         The tape can be moved to another part of the board after some of the components have been installed.

    2. Most pads will solder much better if pre tinned.

    3. Remove solder from the pads after tinning with solder wick or soldersucker.(Be sure the hole in the soldersucker is much smaller than any SMD).

    4. apply a very small amount of solder to ONLY ONE of the pads on the SND.

    5. Use tweezers to hold the SMD in place while the pad with solder is reheated so it will flow properly.

    5. Heat the junction of the other pad(s) of the component to the Flowing point, then apply a small amount of solder. Use small diameter solder.

    This will become easy after a little practice.

    Bill

Reply

  • Just a couple of comments from my years of experience with SMDs.

    1. Secure the PC poard to a flat peice of metal. preferably a piece of flat iron or lead..

         I use a peice of 1/4 inch iron about 4X5 inches. This will allow rotation/movement but will be very stable. Felt on the bottom will be even more stable..

         Use masking tape along two of the edges to secure the PC board. If the masking tape covers some of the pads or components it's OK.

         The tape can be moved to another part of the board after some of the components have been installed.

    2. Most pads will solder much better if pre tinned.

    3. Remove solder from the pads after tinning with solder wick or soldersucker.(Be sure the hole in the soldersucker is much smaller than any SMD).

    4. apply a very small amount of solder to ONLY ONE of the pads on the SND.

    5. Use tweezers to hold the SMD in place while the pad with solder is reheated so it will flow properly.

    5. Heat the junction of the other pad(s) of the component to the Flowing point, then apply a small amount of solder. Use small diameter solder.

    This will become easy after a little practice.

    Bill

Children
  • in reply to billpenner

    billpenner wrote:

     

    Just a couple of comments from my years of experience with SMDs.

    1. Secure the PC poard to a flat peice of metal. preferably a piece of flat iron or lead..

         I use a peice of 1/4 inch iron about 4X5 inches. This will allow rotation/movement but will be very stable. Felt on the bottom will be even more stable..

         Use masking tape along two of the edges to secure the PC board. If the masking tape covers some of the pads or components it's OK.

         The tape can be moved to another part of the board after some of the components have been installed.

    2. Most pads will solder much better if pre tinned.

    3. Remove solder from the pads after tinning with solder wick or soldersucker.(Be sure the hole in the soldersucker is much smaller than any SMD).

    4. apply a very small amount of solder to ONLY ONE of the pads on the SND.

    5. Use tweezers to hold the SMD in place while the pad with solder is reheated so it will flow properly.

    5. Heat the junction of the other pad(s) of the component to the Flowing point, then apply a small amount of solder. Use small diameter solder.

    This will become easy after a little practice.

    Bill

    Thanks for that Bill. Very useful collectection of tips. With xmas just over the horizon and me leaving LARGE hints everywhere here about project bits it would be nice for santa to bring. Im sure I will be making use of some of them in the near future. image

     

    Ray