Actions
Engagement
  • Author Author: joeman
  • Date Created: Date Created
  • Last Updated Last Updated:
  • Views 110079 views
  • Likes 20 likes
  • Comments 478 comments
Related
Recommended

Raspberry Pi 7” Touchscreen Display

image

Raspberry Pi 7” Touchscreen Display

Buy Here  Display Installation Guide

Install Virtual Keyboard* Other Pi Accessories  image

The 7” Touchscreen Monitor for Raspberry Pi gives users the ability to create all-in-one, integrated projects such as tablets, infotainment systems and embedded projects. The 800 x 480 display connects via an adapter board which handles power and signal conversion. Only two connections to the Pi are required; power from the Pi’s GPIO port and a ribbon cable that connects to the DSI port present on all Raspberry Pi’s.  Touchscreen drivers with support for 10-finger touch and an on-screen keyboard will be integrated into the latest Raspbian OS for full functionality without the need for a physical keyboard or mouse.

*Note: Your NEW Rasp Pi 7.0 needs you to Add a Virtual Keyboard….

imageimage

 

 

Raspberry Pi Sense HAT

image

Learn More  image

Technical Specification:

image  7” Touchscreen Display

image  Screen Dimensions: 194mm x 110mm x 20mm (including standoffs)

image  Viewable screen size: 155mm x 86mm

image  Screen Resolution 800 x 480 pixels

image  10 finger capacitive touch

image  Connects to the Raspberry Pi board using a ribbon cable connected to the DSI port

image  Adapter board is used to power the display and convert the parallel signals from the display to the serial (DSI) port on the Raspberry Pi

image  Will require the latest version of Raspbian OS to operate correctly

 

Features and Benefits

image  Turn your Raspberry Pi into a touch screen tablet, infotainment system, or standalone device.

image  Truly Interactive - the latest software drivers will support a virtual ‘on screen’ keyboard, so there is no need to plug in a keyboard and mouse.

image  Make your own ‘Internet of Things’ (IoT) devices including a visual display. Simply connect your Raspberry Pi, develop a Python script to interact with the display, and you’re ready to create your own home automation devices with touch screen capability.

image  A range of educational software and programs available on the Raspberry Pi will be touch enabled, making learning and programming easier on the Raspberry Pi.

Kit Contents

image  7” Touchscreen Display

image  Adapter Board

image  DSI Ribbon cable

image  4 x stand-offs and screws (used to mount the adapter board and Raspberry Pi board to the back of the display

image  4 x jumper wires (used to connect the power from the Adapter Board and the GPIO pins on the Pi so the 2Amp power is shared across both units)

NOTE: THE RASPBERRY PI AND POWER SUPPLY ARE NOT INCLUDED IN THIS KIT AND ARE SOLD SEPARATELY.
Compatible With:

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B

Raspberry Pi 2 Model B

Raspberry Pi Model B+

Raspberry Pi Model A+

 The display will technically work with the Model A and Model B boards (connecting it to the DSI port on the Pi board), however the mounting holes on the back of the display will only line up with the newer board design (A+, B+, Pi 2 and Pi 3).

 

How to Install the Matchbox-Keyboard for your Pi

image

1. Connect a physical keyboard to the Raspberry Pi (or SSH into it if that’s your thing.)

2. Connect to the internet via WiFi or Ethernet.

3. Open the terminal.

4. Type sudo apt-get install matchbox-keyboard

5. Let the program download & install (takes 30s-1min depending on your connection.)

6. Exit the terminal & reboot your Pi.

7. The keyboard can be found by clicking the Menu -> Accessories -> Keyboard.

 

Operating System Support

In order to be sure you’re running the latest version of Raspbian, connect your Raspberry Pi to the Internet and then open LX Terminal.  Type ‘sudo apt-get update’ to download the latest version of the OS.  Once that’s complete, type ‘sudo apt-get upgrade’ to apply the download to your Raspberry Pi.  That way you’ll have all of the latest drivers and software needed to support the touch screen display.

Step 1

image

Step 2

image

Step 3

image

Step 4

image

Step 5

image

Step 6

image

Step 7

image

Step 8

image

Step 9

image
  • in reply to calistra

    Hi Dave,

     

    Mine was from RS in the UK.

     

    Whilst the connectors are all flush, the display is upside down.

    I have had to rotate 180 degrees in the settings. As a result I don't get the best viewing angle, and part of the boot strap has the display upside down.

     

    Was yours the right way up?

     

    Paul

  • in reply to paulnewton

    It seems that I have a different case - mine is acrylic bought from e14 Singapore.

     

    2494691

     

    The USB connectors are recessed.

  • in reply to krcomp

    Hi,

     

    (I don't have a sense hat)

     

    How are you powering the display and Pi boards?

    E.g. the normal way is to use pins on the 40 way header to take power from the display to the Pi, but the hat would cover those pins.....

     

    A good start would be to isolate whether this is a power problem or a gpio problem.

     

    Paul

  • I purchased this display for my Raspberry Pi model 3.  It works great. BUT,

     

    When I attach the Raspberry Pi Sense Hat to the 40 pin connector, the display goes blank.  Rebooting doesn't help.  The display is still blank.  Removing the Sense Hat and everything is back to normal.

     

    Any thoughts?

  • in reply to Robert Peter Oakes

    Hi Peter,

     

    I checked that my wiring is good today - my green, white and black wires are all connected to the 3.5mm jack and the piezo transducers.

     

    I think you are probably correct that I need more voltage.

     

    I don't think it is possible to use the U11 outputs directly.

    The signals are PWM (Pulse Width Modulated - the poor man or woman's DAC). These very high frequency digital pulses need to be integrated to give a low frequency analogue voltage. The Pi uses the two low pass filter networks to achieve this.

     

    I'll keep trying.

     

    Have Fun - Paul

     

    UPDATE 7/1/2018:

     

    They do work, but they are very quiet. When testing speakers, using the Blue Danube Waltz is not the greatest idea!

     

    Initially I suspected the transducers might be shorting out to the back of the display when it was assembled in the case, but they were not.

     

    I will need to experiment and see if I can get more sound by mounting them better.

    First, I will try mounting them in a plastic coffee cup as I think that is likely to give the best amplification. If that gives a good level, then they are worth further experimentation, in which case I will try to find a way to mount them better within the case.

     

    Paul

  • in reply to paulnewton

    It could be then that the voltage is way too low and you may need to tap off before the filtering chain, perhaps the outputs of U11 ?, try with GPIO pin generating a tone directly or via a transistor to the PIZO first if you need conformation it would or should work ?

  • in reply to meghansuncle2

    Vincent,

     

    I have just tried out the power LED mod, I was not very impressed by it (https://howchoo.com/g/ytzjyzy4m2e/build-a-simple-raspberry-pi-led-power-status-indicator).

    As far as I understood it, the whole point of the mod is to have an LED that turns OFF when it is safe to remove the power input to the Raspberry Pi.

    What I found with the Raspberry Pi 3 running Raspbian Jessy, is that the ACT LED on the Pi (the green LED next to the red Power LED)  keeps flashing to indicate SD card activity for about 5 seconds after the "simple raspberry pi led power status indicator" is extinguished.

     

    So if you were to use it to signal when the Pi is safely shutdown, you would probably pull the power during SD card accesses!

    Perhaps the mod works better on other versions of the Pi / OS.

     

    Paul

  • in reply to calistra

    Hi Dave,

     

    As Peter said, in my picture, there are:

    • the normal pair of wires (red and black) to take power between the Pi and he display adapter board,
    • an extra pair (blue and black) for the on/off button,
    • two extra pairs (green and black, white and black) that run to the piezo elements I have fixed inside the back of the case.

     

    The case fully exposes all four of the USB ports on the Pi3, as well as the audio, network, HDMI and micro USB power inputs.

    Each of those connectors (apart from the power inputs) are flush with the edge of the case (they are not recessed) so they are completely accessible.

    image

    Regards - Paul

  • in reply to Robert Peter Oakes

    Hi Peter,

     

    I bought bare transducers with no electronics. They are effectively like a loudspeaker but with a much higher impedance.

    The audio output is only intended for driving headphones or the line input of an amplifier - hence I chose the Piezo elements which use little power.

     

    I think I connected my extra wires to the rear of the Pi 3 using the pads labelled PP25 and PP26, and a ground for the connector (see diagram).

     

    image

     

    I used the omxplayer software to produce some sound, but heard nothing on the speakers.

    When I plugged in head phones, I could hear the music playing in the phones, but still nothing from the Piezo elements. So I think I must have made a mistake with the wiring, and need to dismantle the case and check it.

     

    I was actually quite impressed with the quality of the sound in the head phones - I could not hear any distortion in the Blue Danube Waltz.

     

    Regards - Paul

  • in reply to calistra

    There should be 2 from the display to the PI for power, red and black (the USB power goes into the display, not the PI and the display links power over to the PI, two more wires to the power off button (Blue and Black),  and two pairs for a buzzer/speaker, (black and green, black and white), did I miss some ??

    The USB connectors on the left of the picture should poke right through the plastic and therefor not be an issue for devices, unless said devices already have an issue with double USB connectors ??. if it is something big you may want to use a powered USB hub anyway