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I want to make a 3D printer, I need advice.

Former Member

I want to make it so that my print bed does not move. i want my x and y axis to be at the top and my z axis be a platform where only the extruder moves and not the entire gantry. I plan to use mainly acrylic to do my build and this will be 100 % for scratch. I am a high school student, very excited about  3D printing as a means by which to build a lot of the things I've designed as well as possible economic exploits. As such, keeping this printer on the cheap side is very important. I anticipate and appreciate the help guys !

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    Akeel,

     

    Most 3D printers of the Cartesian design use a single drive screw with parallel support rods to drop the HBP along the Z-axis or two drive screws to lift the X or Y axis framework (similar to a CNC machine).

    5706.contentimage_176307.tiff

    If you like, a Delta configuration printer will move all three axis motors on each movement, but allows the HBP to remain completely immobile while the hot end is moved on the end effector above the platform.

     

    4048.contentimage_176308.tiff

    You may find it easier to build a traditional Cartesian-design for your first 3D printer, although the Delta 3DR and Rostock designs work very well. They just tend to be a little taller than their Cartesian cousins. In most builds, the highest-cost items tend to be the electronics (~$45-110 USD), the stepper motors (~$60 USD for three movement, 1 extruder motors), and the hot end (~$35-110 USD). Filament will also carry a cost, with generic ABS/PLA around $30 USD and name-brand or specialty filament running over $100 USD for certain types of materials.

    allstar1.jpg

    Hope this helps to give you some ideas. Acrylic will allow a very rigid framework, like this design by AllStar (just an example from the web, I have never used their particular machines), and can allow the use of RGB illuminators to give your design greater visual appeal (part of the "Wow!" factor).

     

    Kirk Hausman

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  • 0

    Akeel,

     

    Most 3D printers of the Cartesian design use a single drive screw with parallel support rods to drop the HBP along the Z-axis or two drive screws to lift the X or Y axis framework (similar to a CNC machine).

    5706.contentimage_176307.tiff

    If you like, a Delta configuration printer will move all three axis motors on each movement, but allows the HBP to remain completely immobile while the hot end is moved on the end effector above the platform.

     

    4048.contentimage_176308.tiff

    You may find it easier to build a traditional Cartesian-design for your first 3D printer, although the Delta 3DR and Rostock designs work very well. They just tend to be a little taller than their Cartesian cousins. In most builds, the highest-cost items tend to be the electronics (~$45-110 USD), the stepper motors (~$60 USD for three movement, 1 extruder motors), and the hot end (~$35-110 USD). Filament will also carry a cost, with generic ABS/PLA around $30 USD and name-brand or specialty filament running over $100 USD for certain types of materials.

    allstar1.jpg

    Hope this helps to give you some ideas. Acrylic will allow a very rigid framework, like this design by AllStar (just an example from the web, I have never used their particular machines), and can allow the use of RGB illuminators to give your design greater visual appeal (part of the "Wow!" factor).

     

    Kirk Hausman

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  • 0 in reply to Former Member

    Kirk ,

    Firstly, Thanks for replying to my question, I understand the basics of 3D printing form my initial research , But I noticed in some designs that the z axis movements occur at the extruder , where the entire x and y axis don't move up and down, but instead the extruder itself moves up and down. Like for example , In this design on Youtube, It appears to me that only the extruder moves. This is the link :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMpgHwTjZX0

  • 0 in reply to Former Member

    Their design looks almost like he took it directly from a CNC using one of those lightweight rotozip/dremel flex shafts. You can do the same thing if you constrain the extruder's movement along the Z axis using liner bearings and control the spacing using a stepper acting along a toothed belt or using a braided fishing line like in the RepRap 3DR and the Tantillus printer. That can help you lower you costs overall, rather than relying on proper gear/belt spacing and compatible tooth spacing. A bowden-style extruder/hot end set will let you move the hot end alone while supporting the weight of the extruder's stepper motor on the gantry framework, reducing both structural stability (cost in materials) and the need for more powerful motors if shifting the whole unit.

     

    Kirk