Ultimaker 2 print lifting

Hello TJ

What kind of surface do you have on your build plate currently?  What temp are you running it at both bed and extruder?  Blue painters tape is a great choice to cover the bed in.  Its my go to but others use PET or a ABS/acetone past and finally hair spray.

Nate

Sorry for the late response.  The build plate is glass, and we put the glue they send along with it on the build plate.  I believe it's just a normal glue stick.  I tried the painters tape but I had a problem with prints sticking too well to it, and being super hard to come off, and the tape would stick to the print. 

The temperature for the nozzle is 210 degrees C

The temperature for the build plate is 75 degrees C

I have tried moving the build plate temperature to 90 degrees C, and it seemed to help a little, but the problem is still there.

I guess I should also mention I'm using PLA. 

Hi  I've had very good results using Aqua Net hair spray on a glass build plate for PLA and ABS with a build plate temp of 110 deg C. In most cases allow the bed to cool and the build will pop free on its own (You'll hear it when it releases most of the time).

Plate cleanup with Windex or like product mixed with 10% to 15% (91% isopropyl alcohol)

Thickness and Infill will have an effect on warping too. The closer to solid you get the more pronounced warping will occur. If your item doesn't absolutely need to be solid, try 20% to 35% infill, should help reduce warping noticeably.

Hope this helps you out.

Thanks, I appreciate the info.  I'll try this out, and let you know how it goes. 

Hi,

when printing on my Printrbot, I usually use "brims" of about 5mm wide. I started using that when I was having trouble with corners of prints lifting.

You can see the single layer brim on the sides of the print in this picture:

The brim is easy to remove afterwards. Hope this helps!

Frederick

In addition to the Aqua Net (tm) hair spray, I have also used the Purple Elmer's Glue (tm) sticks very easily. If you apply that, let it dry, then print your ABS and PLA should stick well although painter's tape also works for PLA printing.

Kirk

Forgot to mention another factor that can cause lifting, and that is drafts that cause uneven cooling.

It's not necessary to completely close up the build area, but blocking any drafts from it will go a long way towards preventing uneven cooling and limiting warping.

Another inexpensive solution when printing ABS is to take your scrap ABS, dissolve it in acetone until it is a thin "ABS Juice" that can then be applied to the build surface using a paper towel. It does not need much, as the acetone will evaporate rapidly and leave a faint ABS "haze" on the build plate, to which your designs will adhere much more fully. ABS is tricky, though, if there are drafts or minor changes in air temperature - that will cause delamination and separation from the build plate due to thermal retraction (2-4%). Your design for larger items can include voids (through holes) in non-supportive areas that can help reduce this tendency.

Kirk

Hey everyone,

Sorry it's taken so long to respond to everything.  I found that the print was lifting when it was cooling.  I was finally by it when it finished a print, and it was lifting as everything was cooling down. 

What could cause that?  Do I need to just adhere it better to the build plate like suggested, or does it have something to do with temperature settings on the build plate?

What's your fill set at?