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3D Printing Forum Ender 3 Pro continual issues after initial successful prints - Updated
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  • Replies 73 replies
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  • 3D Printing
  • Ender 3D Pro
Related

Ender 3 Pro continual issues after initial successful prints - Updated

opalko
opalko over 2 years ago

Hi folks, I have an Ender 3 Pro that I bought about a month ago. Stock machine. I have successfully printed using PLA and PETG filament initially.  I am using stock settings for PLA and PETG in Cura on a Linux machine for slicing.

The last thing I printed was a case, in PLA, for a transistor tester, one of those cheapee ones that work well. The outside of the case printed fine but the screw holders on the inside were a loose nest of filament that had no cohesion. They would just snap off with the touch of the finger. It would never hold screws.  So I tried printing the lower half again. This time the bottom layer did not even go down well. Tried again. This time even worse!

Ok after consulting different forums, I was first told my extrusion temp was too low - stock Cura setting is 200. I bumped it 210. Nope. Then I was told to clean the extruder nozzle, which I did. Nope. Then I was told to check the z step. So I went through the process of calculating that and adjusted it. No difference.

At this point I started over. I

- leveled bed again (still didn't work)

- cleaned nozzle again (still didn't work)

- tried different extraction settings (on/off, speed etc) (still didn't work)

Today I went back to the default settings and tried printing it one more time (and then a second and third attempt..). Now the skirt won't even lay down properly. Any guidance for what is going on or where to start (again) with this? I keep the PLA and PETG in the foil pouches they came in with dessicant but I don't have a dryer or use the oven before printing.

Here is a link to the photo album of first good prints and then the degradation over time to the last picture which is from today of the bottom of the tester case I am trying to print again.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PmBKJQojMPebxnpJ8

Thanks

Robert Opalko

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Top Replies

  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 2 years ago +4
    Hi Robert, I look forward to learning what is causing this.
  • milosrasic98
    milosrasic98 over 2 years ago +4
    Hi! I had a similar issue where the printer just started under extruding, I've tried cleaning the nozzle, bumping up the temperature, switching the nozzle, but nothing helped. As I was trying to fix it…
  • ntewinkel
    ntewinkel over 2 years ago +3
    I had the same issues. For me it was the extruder arm that got a crack in it that you can only see after you take it off. Buying a metal extruder fixed all the issues. i think I’m using the correct name…
  • opalko
    opalko over 2 years ago in reply to vinayyn

    Even for the magnetic sheet? I haven't had problems with stuck prints, in fact it is not even adhering to the bed right now.

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  • opalko
    opalko over 2 years ago in reply to MikeC

    I left that info off the original post so thanks for the reminder.

    No glass; magnetic sheet and I have always cleaned it after each print with soap and water and a wipe with isopropyl alcohol.

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  • chewsoroad
    chewsoroad over 2 years ago in reply to RobPaige

    I've never used anything but brass nozzles, but it could still be heat creep.

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  • chewsoroad
    chewsoroad over 2 years ago in reply to opalko

    Right now mine hasn't been on for 6 days because I'm waiting on some parts that need replaced.

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  • chewsoroad
    chewsoroad over 2 years ago in reply to opalko

    I've tried both hair spray and glue sticks I have more luck getting prints to adhere with hair spray.

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  • chewsoroad
    chewsoroad over 2 years ago in reply to opalko

    I never can get PLA to stick without something on the bed like glue stick or hair spray, and a temp of less than 65c. If you end up getting some warpage in your first few layers, you might think to raise the temp, but I would say lower it. I've found when my first few layers lift and warp, it's because the layers just above are cooling and contracting faster and that pulls the lower layers off the bed. A lower bed temp can lessen that.

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  • hlipka
    hlipka over 2 years ago

    When you say not even the skirt lays down correctly, I would look at three things:

    - check that it extrudes properly (move the nozzle up to some degree, and then just extrude filament and look whether that looks fine - when you have a good scale you can measure how much filament got extruded)

    - clean you bed properly (not just IPA - use dish washer and lots of hot water), and then try not to touch it with bare finger - grease and oils from fingers will ruin your bed adhesion

    - check the first layer - I always recommend the procedure from https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/life-adjust-z-my-way/ which explains how a good first layer needs to look like, and how you get a test print for it (I don#t know whether the Ender has Live Z adjustment, though)

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  • kmikemoo
    kmikemoo over 2 years ago

    On a bit of an odd side note... thanks for having this discussion.  Like many, I'm interested in getting into 3D printing and was eyeing the Ender 3 quite intensely.  I think I'll hold off for a bit more - until I make the time to dig into it properly.  I have really enjoyed this thread.

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  • opalko
    opalko over 2 years ago in reply to kmikemoo

    I'm going to update this post tomorrow but basically I have tried everything (except for a new extruder arm) suggested here (and other places) and nothing helped.

    There is an joke about a computer of my youth that goes "How do you know if your Sinclair ZX81 is working?" Answer "Does the door stay open?"....(some people thought the ZX81 worked better as a doorstop). I am beginning to think the joke should be updated with the Ender 3 in place of the Sinclair. Disappointed

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  • ntewinkel
    ntewinkel over 2 years ago in reply to opalko
    opalko said:
    except for a new extruder arm

    It's just one little screw you need to undo to have a look at the bottom of the extruder arm - if it's cracked, you will be able to see it immediately.

    For me, I found that the shiny filament gave me the biggest trouble, and the matte filament (white and wood colours) were somewhat better - I guess the matte filament is more grippy and suffers less from the cracked extruder issue.

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