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Ask an Expert Forum Colorsound Power Boost - Another issue!!!
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Colorsound Power Boost - Another issue!!!

Andy Betts
Andy Betts over 4 years ago

Hi guys,

 

Been a long time since I posted here and i have another issue for you that hopefully you might be able to help with.

 

I've just recently built another Power boost pedal for a client. I etched the board myself using the photo resist method, it came out not too bad save for a couple of areas where the tracks were broke. i patched them up with copper tape that has conductive adhesive. I've checked for continuity and all is fine where the patches are. Here are the pictures of the board and also for reference the schematic.

 

 

image

 

image

 

I've built a few of these now and have had no issues with the circuit or builds until now. I built this one, wired it to my test rig and there is no sound at all.... it's totally dead as if it's not in the circuit at all. I've checked for voltage on input and it's ok. I've checked for continuity in the circuit and it seems ok. i don't know what the voltages should be in the various sections of the circuit so haven't checked them. I've gone basic and checked the input and output wires for breaks and they're ok. I've also checked the test rig with a known good circuit and it's OK.

 

i think there might be a duff component but not sure on first steps to troubleshoot.... Any help will be greatly received.

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Top Replies

  • michaelkellett
    michaelkellett over 4 years ago in reply to Andy Betts +3
    What value is the blue bodied resistor - it looks like 1.8M brown grey green - if its meant to be 180k that would explain things. I could be being misled by pictures. MK
  • Jan Cumps
    Jan Cumps over 4 years ago in reply to geralds +3
    geralds wrote: ... Tip: use your finger as a signal injector. - You are a 60Hz (in AUT I'm a 50Hz sender ) sender "brummmmmm.....!!!""", so you can check the signal with a signal follower (mini-amp with…
  • Andy Betts
    Andy Betts over 4 years ago +3
    I've taken a higher res photo of the board.... this is how it stand now after reflowing the 3k9 resistor and bridging the break in the track on the Q3 base
Parents
  • geralds
    geralds over 4 years ago

    Hi,

    On the bottom side of the board, if I saw right (the image is not right focused),

    it seems that the track around the 3k9 near to the Q3 is broken (across the track 2x over etched ) on two ends.

    And, please isolate the trimmers from the tracks.

     

    And, on the top side of the board there are two holes without a component. Is this right? Or must a resistor mounted there?

     

    Tip:

    use your finger as a signal injector. - You are a 60Hz (in AUT I'm a 50Hz sender image ) sender "brummmmmm.....!!!""", so you can check the signal with a signal follower (mini-amp with loudspeaker).

     

    Best Regards

    Gerald

    ---

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  • geralds
    geralds over 4 years ago

    Hi,

    On the bottom side of the board, if I saw right (the image is not right focused),

    it seems that the track around the 3k9 near to the Q3 is broken (across the track 2x over etched ) on two ends.

    And, please isolate the trimmers from the tracks.

     

    And, on the top side of the board there are two holes without a component. Is this right? Or must a resistor mounted there?

     

    Tip:

    use your finger as a signal injector. - You are a 60Hz (in AUT I'm a 50Hz sender image ) sender "brummmmmm.....!!!""", so you can check the signal with a signal follower (mini-amp with loudspeaker).

     

    Best Regards

    Gerald

    ---

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  • Andy Betts
    Andy Betts over 4 years ago in reply to geralds

    The 2 holes are not required, they're for a different circuit. I'll check the tracking though and report back

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  • Andy Betts
    Andy Betts over 4 years ago in reply to geralds

    I located the break and tested for continuity and it was fine... I did bridge it with solder though and tested the circuit again, still no cigar

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  • Andy Betts
    Andy Betts over 4 years ago in reply to Andy Betts

    The pots are isolated, the rear of the pots have plastic covers to isolate from the tracks

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  • Jan Cumps
    Jan Cumps over 4 years ago in reply to geralds

    geralds  wrote:

    ...

     

    Tip:

    use your finger as a signal injector. - You are a 60Hz (in AUT I'm a 50Hz sender image ) sender "brummmmmm.....!!!""", so you can check the signal with a signal follower (mini-amp with loudspeaker).

    ---

    Get yourself a cheap computer speaker with amplifier (cheapest you can find), and you can use that to trace that hum that's generated by your finger.

    Cut off the audio plug. Solder the audio ground to your circuit audio ground and use the left or right input as a probe.

    Start at the first transistor, then move along with the signal path.

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  • geralds
    geralds over 4 years ago in reply to Jan Cumps

    Hi Jan, Jan Cumps

    Yes, so. This is what I thought about. image

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