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Ask an Expert Forum How could I install a new 12 volt backlight?
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  • monitor
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How could I install a new 12 volt backlight?

bwarren97
bwarren97 over 10 years ago

I have a 1080p monitor that I really really liked, until its backlight started being a butthead. So, I decided to take out the old backlight, and stick in an aftermarket one. I thought it would be nice and simple, until I realized that the LED driver ran on 12 volts and there was no 12 volt output anywhere on the monitor (the original LED was driven by 80 volts).
I have confirmed that the backlight works by jump-wiring it to a PC power supply, but I need a somewhat space-saving method of driving it within the monitor case using its own power supply so that it turns on and off with the monitor. I would like to just solder a 12 volt regulator directly onto the 80 volt output, but I don't know if there is a small chip capable of providing sufficient power or stepping down that much voltage. Any ideas?

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  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 10 years ago in reply to bwarren97 +2 suggested
    An optocoupler (as you discovered when you seardhed it) provides isolation between sides (LED) and the other (Transistor/Tirac/SCR). They come in various forms and some are much more sensitive than others…
  • shabaz
    shabaz over 10 years ago +1
    You can apply ohm's law and the power equation and see immediately you have a very high amount of power to dissipate as cmay77 mentions - heatsinks and fan time basically. So, theoretically possible with…
  • shabaz
    shabaz over 10 years ago in reply to bwarren97 +1
    By connecting to a 80V supply, even if your backlight draws just 0.3A (4W), your heatsink will need to dissipate more than 20W - that's a huge heatsink. Furthermore, the supply you measured is probably…
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  • cmay77
    0 cmay77 over 10 years ago

    Okay, first of all you cannot just solder in a voltage regulator directly to your 80 volt output is just going to blow your new backlight. First things first we need to get some information about your new backlight, and your tv. Specifically what is the current rating of the light, and what is the current output of the TV power supply driver?

    While hooking up a voltage regulator will change the output voltage it will not limit the current. This will be just like hooking up and led up directly to a battery. Once you have the current output and the current rating we can design a circuit that will limit the current, and drop the voltage, the circuit will most likely integrate a voltage regulator. You also probably need a couple of half watt or 1 watt resistors dropping from 80 volts down to 12 volts will cause a high rate of power dissipation, and since your television will be running for extended periods of time, you will want to make the circuit as close to indestructible as possible. Also keep in mind that the voltage regulator dropping from 80 down to 12 volts is also going to be dissipating a great deal of heat, you're going to have to have a heat sink attached to it and that will take up a bit of space, and you don't want that touching any of the plastic parts of the television.

     

    Please post the following information:

    Backlight power dissipation, and current rating.

    Television monitor driver current output.

     

    You should be able to find all this in the data sheet for the light bar, might have to do some digging to get the information about the television driver output. If you can't find the information for the television we can still probably design the circuit by assuming that the television current source will attempt to supply infinite current, it would just be nice to have that information handy.

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  • bwarren97
    0 bwarren97 over 10 years ago in reply to cmay77

    Well, here's the problem. The backlight I purchased had literally no documentation attached. It's a cheap one from China. All I know is that the LED driver that it shipped with runs on 12 volts at least, and it needs an enable signal. I am very hesitant to attach my multimeter to read the current draw of it, as my multimeter has a 10 amp capacity and has no fuse (the milliamp setting is also unfused since the original fuse blew and I just decided to bypass it)

     

    What I meant about tying a regulator to the 80v output, I meant attaching the new driver to that with the 12v regulator or something. The LED driver would then limit the current if I am not mistaken, since it ran just fine from the PC power supply. If I can grab power from somewhere else on the power board that turns off when it goes into sleep mode, then that would be great. The enable line on the LED driver can take as little as 5v (based on what I used on the PC power supply) to turn on, so that can be separate.

     

    As for the calibration and whatnot, I don't really think that's necessary, because I ran the panel with the new backlight in there and I was very satisfied with the results. It works, but now I'm just looking for a way to run it as just the monitor, not a string of parts everywhere.

     

    I will do some research on the monitor. It is an ASUS VK248. What I do know is that the power going to the logic is just 5v.

     

    In my opinion, there appears to be plenty of space for a heat sink to fit within the metal shielding of the device. Here's some pictures to maybe give you guys a better idea. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B5FOtrrp9MnYZDMwcHI1TUJxOUU&usp=sharing

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  • cmay77
    0 cmay77 over 10 years ago in reply to bwarren97

    That LED bar isn't  going to be pulling anything close to 10 amps. My stove in my kitchen doesn't pull 10 amps. You should be fine to use your meter.

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  • cmay77
    0 cmay77 over 10 years ago in reply to bwarren97

    That LED bar isn't  going to be pulling anything close to 10 amps. My stove in my kitchen doesn't pull 10 amps. You should be fine to use your meter.

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