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Ask an Expert Forum PS4 Pro Power Supply Repair
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PS4 Pro Power Supply Repair

Zehel
Zehel over 7 years ago

Yesterday while playing my PS4 Pro I heard a loud POP and my console was off. The lovely burnt electronic smell was in the air and I knew something had blown. My warranty is sadly up so I took apart my console looking for a popped cap anywhere. Turns out it was in the power supply. I already cleaned up the area but it looks like C31 was what blew. Does anyone know where I can either find a schematic so I can find out what that cap is, or know how I can identify the part?

 

Thank you!

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 7 years ago in reply to Zehel +6 suggested
    Hi Zehel, My eyes are not good enough to see a problem with the cap. Cap C29 near it looks to be the same and could be measured to give you a likely value for C31. If you can do this check C31 as well…
  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 7 years ago +4 suggested
    Looking at the pictures, I doubt that C31 caused the burnt smell. As jw0752 said it's more likely the 'victim' of the original failure. It's more likely that one of the mosfet/transistors Q4-Q8? has gone…
  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 7 years ago +3 suggested
    Hi Zehel, I am sorry to hear that you are having this problem. It has been my experience in situations like this that it is almost never the failure of the cap that is the root of the problem. Most of…
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  • jw0752
    0 jw0752 over 7 years ago

    Hi Zehel,

     

    I am sorry to hear that you are having this problem. It has been my experience in situations like this that it is almost never the failure of the cap that is the root of the problem. Most of the time there is a failure further back in the circuit that puts too much voltage or the wrong polarity of voltage on a cap which causes the cap to over heat and pop. Before you replace the cap it will be a good idea to check the components associated with the cap for shorts or damage. Sometimes there is internal damage to a part that is not visible externally. Often these parts can be probed with an ohm meter while still in the circuit but some experience is often necessary to find the culprit part. I think I was able to see the part that you identified as C31 but it did not look damaged to my eyes. If it is in fact damaged you may be able to find a similar cap on the board and measure it with a capacitor meter to get the value. Some of the guys might be able to give you more information but you may have to provide a better closeup and an explanation of why you feel the C31 is damaged.

     

    John

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  • Zehel
    0 Zehel over 7 years ago in reply to jw0752

    Hey John,

     

    Thank you for the response. I did clean the spot up with some alcohol so it's no longer a black mess. Here is a closer picture of C31.

    image

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  • jw0752
    0 jw0752 over 7 years ago in reply to Zehel

    Hi Zehel,

    My eyes are not good enough to see a problem with the cap. Cap C29 near it looks to be the same and could be measured to give you a likely value for C31. If you can do this check C31 as well to verify that it has failed. Keep in mind that there is no guarantee that you can check a capacitor in the circuit. Depending on what else is connected the capacitor may look bad on the meter while in the circuit but test OK once it is out of the circuit. I see that C31 lies under the (I am guessing FETS) that are back to back with Q5 and Q6. I would certainly probe all components in this area for shorts. This is a fairly sophisticated switching power supply and they are not know for easy fixes. Also use CAUTION as they can retain fairly high voltages on some of the electrolytic capacitors. It would not be impossible to get a fatal shock many minutes after the unit is turned off and disconnected. If you do not have experience fixing switching power supplies and do not have the proper test equipment to work on this type of power supply it would be safer to look for a replacement board and not take the risk of getting a shock.

    John

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  • jw0752
    0 jw0752 over 7 years ago in reply to Zehel

    Hi Zehel,

    My eyes are not good enough to see a problem with the cap. Cap C29 near it looks to be the same and could be measured to give you a likely value for C31. If you can do this check C31 as well to verify that it has failed. Keep in mind that there is no guarantee that you can check a capacitor in the circuit. Depending on what else is connected the capacitor may look bad on the meter while in the circuit but test OK once it is out of the circuit. I see that C31 lies under the (I am guessing FETS) that are back to back with Q5 and Q6. I would certainly probe all components in this area for shorts. This is a fairly sophisticated switching power supply and they are not know for easy fixes. Also use CAUTION as they can retain fairly high voltages on some of the electrolytic capacitors. It would not be impossible to get a fatal shock many minutes after the unit is turned off and disconnected. If you do not have experience fixing switching power supplies and do not have the proper test equipment to work on this type of power supply it would be safer to look for a replacement board and not take the risk of getting a shock.

    John

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