PS4 Pro Power Supply Repair

Hi Zehel,

I am sorry to hear that you are having this problem. It has been my experience in situations like this that it is almost never the failure of the cap that is the root of the problem. Most of the time there is a failure further back in the circuit that puts too much voltage or the wrong polarity of voltage on a cap which causes the cap to over heat and pop. Before you replace the cap it will be a good idea to check the components associated with the cap for shorts or damage. Sometimes there is internal damage to a part that is not visible externally. Often these parts can be probed with an ohm meter while still in the circuit but some experience is often necessary to find the culprit part. I think I was able to see the part that you identified as C31 but it did not look damaged to my eyes. If it is in fact damaged you may be able to find a similar cap on the board and measure it with a capacitor meter to get the value. Some of the guys might be able to give you more information but you may have to provide a better closeup and an explanation of why you feel the C31 is damaged.

John

Hey John,

Thank you for the response. I did clean the spot up with some alcohol so it's no longer a black mess. Here is a closer picture of C31.

Hi Zehel,

My eyes are not good enough to see a problem with the cap. Cap C29 near it looks to be the same and could be measured to give you a likely value for C31. If you can do this check C31 as well to verify that it has failed. Keep in mind that there is no guarantee that you can check a capacitor in the circuit. Depending on what else is connected the capacitor may look bad on the meter while in the circuit but test OK once it is out of the circuit. I see that C31 lies under the (I am guessing FETS) that are back to back with Q5 and Q6. I would certainly probe all components in this area for shorts. This is a fairly sophisticated switching power supply and they are not know for easy fixes. Also use CAUTION as they can retain fairly high voltages on some of the electrolytic capacitors. It would not be impossible to get a fatal shock many minutes after the unit is turned off and disconnected. If you do not have experience fixing switching power supplies and do not have the proper test equipment to work on this type of power supply it would be safer to look for a replacement board and not take the risk of getting a shock.

John

Looking at the pictures, I doubt that C31 caused the burnt smell.

As jw0752 said it's more likely the 'victim' of the original failure.

It's more likely that one of the mosfet/transistors Q4-Q8? has gone bang.

There is likely to be some damage to the black body, which could show as a small bump or a piece missing.

I note that this area has been attracting dust (see the foreign material on the edge and heatsink around Q6.)

It is possible that this area was running hot and finally gave up.

These power supplies work by rectifying the mains voltage and then use a DC-DC converter running at high frequency to reduce the voltage down to what is needed.

Over time the filter capacitors on the high frequence side age and eventually stress the other parts.

This may show as a discharge underneath them or bulging.

One trick I learnt to test a switchmode supply you've repaired is to use a 50 or 100w mains voltage lamp in series with the active/phase to the device.

If something is still dead or faulty, the lamp lights up rather than the device going bang ... again.

Mark

Moisture and dirty psu can make that trouble.

Usually no poping and PSU doesnt work after 1 year.

I send mine for repair at http://www.autodijagnostika.biz/multimedia/playstation/adp-300cr-playstation-4-ps4-pro-psu-repair/

Croatia

For now works great

Q6 is on the other side of the card from C31.

It looks ratty in the photo - is this real or just an artifact in the photo?

Otherwise nothing looks visibly blown.

Try using your nose to localize where the smell came from.

Also inspect the other cards.

Lord Jesus Christ

I ran into a similar problem except mines is on the upper left corner of the board with R14 and R-13,look burnt, plus there's some burn mark on the board near c25 on flip side but no other physical damage, how can I upload a pic?

I bought an MULTI meter and going to purchase a soldiering kit soon.  

SUGGESTIONS ?

Well.. I know this is a year later, but a year later and the power supply is now dead.

Against my better judgement I went ahead and threw the original power supply back in my PS4 because the replacement I bought has a really high pitch squeal that annoys the crap out of me. Last night I was playing games and right in the middle of a session my PS4 went dark and wouldn't power back on. I pulled the power supply again and took a look. I think Douglas hit the nail right on the head. Q6 looks NASTY.

Unfortunately, the back side definitely took some damage. It's hard to see the clearish white film that is covering the C3 - C28 area. The film is a little easier to see on the right of the picture near the "logo".

I'll probably try to repair it since it is dead, but thankfully I do have the annoying replacement I bought.

Thanks everyone who responded!

-Zehel

Repairing my power supply. Have a blown cap at C24 and C26. Any one know what these two are rated so I can get a replacement?

Can anyone tell me the rating of c31?

Mine is dead, multimeter shows open line.

It's already unsoldered.

But there's no rating printed on it anywhere.

It's not the same as c29, c31 is thicker.

And do they have a polarity?

There are no marks.

Best regards