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Ask an Expert Forum Inline Key Switch or Tamper Resistant control for mains devices?!
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Inline Key Switch or Tamper Resistant control for mains devices?!

shabaz
shabaz over 2 years ago

Hi,

For one reason or another (elderly relative), I'm looking for a way to prevent operation of a mains appliance (about 6A at 230V AC) unless, say, a key of some sort is inserted, to prevent them from using the appliance themselves. It doesn't need to be a high-security solution, it could simply be a plastic key for instance, that could be pushed in and rotated, to enable the appliance.

I don't wish to cut holes in the appliance, and really do want to do this inline with the mains wire. 

Is there any existing product that could do this? If not, is there any suggestion that I could fit into a small plastic enclosure myself? I don't have access to a 3D printer, so it ideally needs to be a solution that I could make using conventional tools (electric drill, saw, etc). 

One way I can think of, is to find some sort of enclosure where a rocker switch could be fitted recessed, and then have a small padlock such that it prevents the switch from operating. But it probably requires a custom box : ( Another way could be to have a Bluetooth controlled relay. I could design this, but I'd rather find an off-the-shelf solution. 

I'm sure I can't be the only one wanting to do such a thing, but I'm having no luck googling for this. 

Anyone come across anything that could help?

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 2 years ago +6
    It arrived today, I'd say it is a 7/10 product.. it will certainly fit many plugs, but the build quality looks very average. The hinge looks fragile, although perhaps that's deceptive. I don't know. …
  • charlieo21
    charlieo21 over 2 years ago in reply to anniel747 +5 suggested
    Definitely the simplest and cheapest option, we have those in the lab, it works perfect to avoid someone use an equipment without authorization. Another option are those smart plugs that you can control…
  • beacon_dave
    beacon_dave over 2 years ago +5 suggested
    A long shackle padlock combined with a Lego Brick sized block with a hole in it (placed between the pins) could probably fit over a 13A plug top preventing it from being plugged into a socket. I don…
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  • Fred27
    0 Fred27 over 2 years ago

    If you do end up wanting a 3D printed solution then let me know. I'd be happy to print something and send it to you.

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 2 years ago in reply to Fred27

    Hi Fred,

    Oh that's awesome, thank you for the support! 

    I've ordered the Martindale product that anniel747  found, and will give it a shot! If it's no good then I think we should design a 3D solution since it could help many people! : )

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  • beacon_dave
    0 beacon_dave over 2 years ago in reply to shabaz

    One refinement might be to use the plastic cover that is often found on the pins of  readymade 13A/IEC leads. They are usually quite a snug fit which is what we are looking for here.

    So you could drill larger holes and epoxy one of these covers into them. You could probably get away with only two laminated layers here as the cover will now be doing the job of the third layer. 

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  • beacon_dave
    0 beacon_dave over 2 years ago in reply to beacon_dave

    The removable shackle type of padlock would make the construction easier as you just need two holes, no slot cutting required.

    image

    Not as common however.

    Padlocks are difficult to search for - most are shown in the locked position so you can't tell how much clearance they have when open.

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  • anniel747
    anniel747 over 2 years ago in reply to beacon_dave
    This reply was deleted.
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  • beacon_dave
    0 beacon_dave over 2 years ago in reply to anniel747

    Yes, I had thought about one of these and then grinding the ends off as they are easier to identify on-line.

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  • anniel747
    0 anniel747 over 2 years ago in reply to beacon_dave

    They are available in many lengths, probably one just right.

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 2 years ago in reply to beacon_dave

    Having experience in this (don't ask : ) it's very difficult to angle-grind padlocks (at least the good ones). Chains on the other hand, are often easy!

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  • beacon_dave
    0 beacon_dave over 2 years ago in reply to shabaz

    I suspect that it very much depends on the grade of the padlock. I've cut through a shackle on a typical brass padlock with a hacksaw with relative ease.

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  • anniel747
    0 anniel747 over 2 years ago in reply to beacon_dave

    It also depends of the grade of your cutting tool.

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  • beacon_dave
    0 beacon_dave over 2 years ago in reply to anniel747

    just a diamond tipped hacksaw... Slight smile

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  • beacon_dave
    0 beacon_dave over 2 years ago in reply to shabaz
    shabaz said:
    since all that's required is sheet plastic and superglue

    There is always Lego... Wink  

    A Lego Classic 12 x 6 base plate is the perfect size... and Lego Technic comes pre-drilled Slight smile

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  • beacon_dave
    0 beacon_dave over 2 years ago in reply to shabaz
    shabaz said:
    since all that's required is sheet plastic and superglue

    There is always Lego... Wink  

    A Lego Classic 12 x 6 base plate is the perfect size... and Lego Technic comes pre-drilled Slight smile

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 2 years ago in reply to beacon_dave

    I'll see if I have a plate. In any case, it's a pleasure working with sheet plastic, I have not had the chance to build much recently so I don't mind doing that.

    Incidentally, a super-cheap way of creating the plate (with zero tools!) could be to heat up a load of the Polydoh stuff and mash it around the plug (probably a good idea to wrap some paper around the prongs to thicken them, and Vaseline it too! Maybe better to use a sacrificial mains plug in case the hardened Polydoh doesn't eject : )

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  • beacon_dave
    0 beacon_dave over 2 years ago in reply to shabaz

    If any of the plug pins are slightly out of line with each other, then the grip will be significant with a moulded approach. Depends on how much shrinkage Polydoh has. Might be able to wiggle it a bit before it fully hardens to give it just a little freedom around the pins and to allow for the BS pin spacing tolerance.

    In the past I've used 2-part resin body/wood filler paste for creating parts for prototypes. It's about the only free-form material I've ever had success/enjoyed working with. Not too messy/runny, sets quickly, can be cut/sanded and smells great.   

    I have however seen some very nice small-scale work done with fine-grade concrete mixes which I could be tempted to give a go. It can take on a whole new look if you use the right aggregates and sand/polish it up after and apply sealing lacquers. I think combined with flexible filament in a 3D printer to create release moulds, then it could be interesting.

    A non-moulded 13A plug will often have a bit of movement in its pins so may release easier than a moulded one.

    Dipping the pins in melted wax before moulding might also work. Depends on the working temperature of the Polydoh vs the melting point of the wax though Slight smile

    One advantage of Lego is that you can always claim that you are 'just playing with Lego' Slight smile

    It will be interesting to see what you can come up with.

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  • Jan Cumps
    0 Jan Cumps over 2 years ago in reply to shabaz
    shabaz said:
    I'll see if I have a plate.

    Cheapest source for that type of plates, is a set of plastic kitchen cutting boards. Either in  a 1£ shop, or at a flea market, you'll find enough material for years.

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