Group Actions
Engagement
  • Author Author: shabaz
  • Date Created: Date Created
  • Views 4462 views
  • Likes 15 likes
  • Comments 19 comments
Related
Recommended

Copper Clad Prototyping Tools

shabaz

Following on from a Project14 discussion DIY 100kHz VCO - Build & Test  on copper-clad board techniques for prototyping, I was curious to know how I could improve my current method of using a craft knife to cut channels for creating isolated pads and islands on the boards.   suggested using a Perspex cutter, which I have yet to try. I also attempted to use a scriber with a ground-out channel.

 

I posed the question on a DIY group channel I'm part of with a few old school friends. They suggested I try an electric engraver, or a 'scorper' or 'graver' tool (these tools are used by jewellers for cutting lines and channels in metal).

So, I gave it a shot, using the tools below.

image

I was really surprised at the quality of the engraver - it was under $20, and seems well made. I don't know if it will last, my main concern was that the grub screws that hold the shaft of the cutter are quite small and I didn't want to over-tighten them in case the screw thread gets torn. Maybe I'm over-worrying, but I will try to find slightly longer grub screws. Aside from that, it all seems like a very neat tool.

 

However I think I may end up using the second tool, the scorper, a lot more, simply because it won't generate dust as the engraver will.

 

The 4-minute video below shows the tools in use.

 

 

Any other suggestions or ways to improve these techniques would be great to hear!

  • It's been more than a year, I figured I'd write a short update.

    The motorized tool, plus the "bearing cutter" bit have proved invaluable. The bit is extremely tiny, and it comes in handy for cutting fine traces on PCBs. The motorized tool functions really well with it. I think that was a great purchase. However, I don't use it for the original purpose, which was to cut longer lengths for prototyping.

    The scorper tool was another purchase I'm happy with. I use it with cheap FR2 board, so it is unlikely to get blunt any time soon.  I have not found any need to sharpen it, I'm using it as-is, the long length of it suits the way I hold it; still, I might ask a jeweler to grind it for me at some point (I don't trust that I will do a good job) just to see the difference.

  • If you are messing with perf-bord you have to look at a neat package called veroroute (Linux).

    ~~Cris

  • in reply to shabaz

    Hi Shabaz,

    After your post I ordered a cheap engraver set from Amazon but it did not have the type of point that I needed. The handle however looked like what I was looking for in a handle. I found the tool steel point in my lathe cutter bin and then I used the grinder to shape the tip. I wanted to use tool steel or harder so that I wouldn't need to continually sharpen it. The most difficult part was filing the round hole of the holder to accommodate the square shape of the tool steel.

    John

  • in reply to jw0752

    Excellent work John! That seems to do a great job of cutting through the masking/sealer.  This is something that I might need to copy, as from time to time, I do hack up prototype assemblies to correct designs or to fashion tools from my leftover bits and pieces.

  • in reply to shabaz

    It looks like a chunk of tool steel, like the type that might be used to build a cutter for a lathe.