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Forum Need to get MG Electronics Power Supply repaired...or NOT!?
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Related

Need to get MG Electronics Power Supply repaired...or NOT!?

Former Member
Former Member over 10 years ago

Hi.

I just bought a lot of Slot Car stuff, yes those cars that go around a track. The guy was serious about his hobby he didn't have the usual wall plug in power pack, he used a MG Electronics PS-10AD, 0-20 VDC at 10 Amps. Well this power supply doesn't work anymore. It does turn on and the red overload light stays on. It doesn't put out anything. I used my multimeter etc., nothing. I know that these are made overseas . They did retail for about $200. So the questions is were can I get it repaired OR should I ? I'm in Western MAss.

I did check the fuse , it's fine. I've got a heavy door stop on my hands, it does have a nice handle and cord on it !

Many thanks for info, Ted

 

http://www.mgelectronics.com/shopexd.asp?id=179

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Top Replies

  • mpulliam
    mpulliam over 5 years ago in reply to jw0752 +4 suggested
    Well, I spent all day replacing four 2N3055 transistors....it wasn't easy and... Success!!!
  • mpulliam
    mpulliam over 5 years ago in reply to jw0752 +3
    Hi John, I have a thought. If the output transistors (or is it pass or power transistors?) NTE130 or 2N3055H are giving a bad voltage reading in the voltage test, could it be that any component between…
  • mpulliam
    mpulliam over 5 years ago in reply to mpulliam +3 suggested
    BTW I tested the old 2N3055 transistors, the continuity is the same as a new 2N3055 . There is no continuity between any of the terminals But when I run a diode test, a new 2N3055 tests at .486 volts with…
  • mpulliam
    0 mpulliam over 5 years ago in reply to shabaz

    HI Shabaz,

     

    My problem isn't my purpose for having the supply.  My problem is that it doesn't work and I'd like to fix it.  I do not do slot car racing.

     

    Thank you for the thought, though.

    Matt

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  • mpulliam
    0 mpulliam over 5 years ago in reply to genebren

    Hi Gene,

    I'm just trying to fix this one for fun, I realize I can buy other power supplies.  I also wouldn't purchase another MG Electronics power supply out of principle now, they have neglected to return emails, neglected to provide contact information on their website, and flat out refused to honor warranties to their distributers.

     

    Matt

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  • fmilburn
    0 fmilburn over 5 years ago in reply to jw0752

    John,

    As you well know this isn't my area of expertise.  Too bad there is no schematic.  Some thoughts on things I didn't see but may have missed:

    • have all of the electrolytic caps been checked
    • can the transformer be isolated and checked
    • if the caps, diodes, transistors, assorted ICs, and transformer are good then is it worthwhile to go through the circuit with an iron and touch up all the joints to make sure all the connections are good

    Frank

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  • jw0752
    0 jw0752 over 5 years ago in reply to fmilburn

    Thanks for the input Frank, Shabaz, and Gene. I will keep your suggestions in mind.

     

    John

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  • jw0752
    0 jw0752 over 5 years ago in reply to mpulliam

    Hi Matt,

    Let's Continue:

     

    Test the output transistors with the Analog meter by choosing one. Since I believe they are all in parallel we will look at all of them at the same time. With the unit unplugged and turned off. Put a meter probe on base of transistor I believe it is the yellow wire and test to the other two. Note meter readings. Switch probes and test in the other direction. Now leave out the base (Yellow) lead that was common in the first test and test both polarities between the other two ( Emitter and Collector).

    Next test. Still using the Analog meter with the unit off. Test to see if there is connection between the negative of the big capacitors and the black (negative) banana plug jack on the front of the unit. Test to see if there is a connection between the negative of the large capacitor and the #4 pin of each of the LM741 ICs.

     

    Now with the unit still off test to see if there is a connection between the Blue wires of the power transistors and the RED positive Banana JAck on the front of the unit. If not is there a connection between the yellow wires and the Red Banana Jack?

     

    With the unit turned on and using your digital meter set on DC volts measure the voltage between the Black binding post on the front of the unit and the Collectors of the output transistors (Orange? RED? Wire I can tell the color clearly) Try turning the range selector on the front. We should see the same voltages that we saw when we tested the large capacitors.

     

    With the unit turned on and the black lead of your digital meter still on the black banana jack check the voltages on the yellow and blue wires to the power transistors.

     

    Let me know what you find.

     

    John

     

    You are getting some really good practice in using your meters.

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  • jw0752
    0 jw0752 over 5 years ago in reply to mpulliam

    Hi Matt,

     

    I just wanted to let you know that I feel that we are making real progress. I have a preliminary concept of how they are making this circuit work. We hopefully are only a couple steps away from zeroing in on the source of the problem. You are doing an excellent job of interpreting my measurement requests. I understand the #3 pin reading on the lower Right LM741 and I believe we are good on the circuit through this 741.

     

    John

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  • phoenixcomm
    0 phoenixcomm over 5 years ago in reply to Former Member

    mpulliam Mat you have three (3) bridges on the diode board, remove the screws holding it in place. Then turn it over and draw or take photos of the bottom. You should be able to tell the outputs of the transformer to feed the bridges. On a bridge 2 there are two connections for the AC, one for positive and one for negative;  here is a little video that explains them. with bridge in place check input voltages (AC) if that's ok check the(+/-) side. If no joy on the inputs that might mean you big transformer is open, only what to check is to desolder the leads to the transformer and Lable them!!! then check the secondarys. tells you real quick!

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  • mpulliam
    0 mpulliam over 5 years ago in reply to jw0752

    If I'm measuring Resistance, then it's 15 Ohms between Yellow (base) wire on different transistors in both polarities (at X1)

    Between Red to Reds it's also 15 Ohms

    Between Blue to Blues it's also 15 Ohms

    Between Red to Blues there is no reading

     

    Affirmative continuity between negative on both big capacitors and negative banana plug

     

    The continuity between the big capacitors and the LM741 is screwy.  It seems to change...

    Negative continuity between negative on both big capacitors and #4 pin on each of the LM741 ICs, except that there was continuity for a second

     

    Positive continuity between negative on both big capacitors and #2 pin on each of the LM741 ICs, and then there was no continuity

    Intermittent continuity between the positive on both capacitors and some of the pins of each of the LM741 ICs

     

    Positive continuity between the top row of rectifier diodes on the non-line side and the #2 pin on each of the LM741 ICs, then negative continuity

    Negative continuity between the bottom row of rectifier diodes on either side of diode and the #2 pin on each of the LM741 ICs

     

     

    Positive continuity between each of the blue wires on the power transistors and the Red Banana Jack

    Negative continuity between each of the yellow wires on the power transistors and the Red Banana Jack

     

    16.5V between Red wire of power transistor and black banana plug, then turning the front range selector

    26.14V

    36.9V

     

    Black banana plug to yellow transistor wire (all were the same)

    36.7V

     

    Black banana plug to blue transistor wire (all were the same)

    .6V

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  • jw0752
    0 jw0752 over 5 years ago in reply to phoenixcomm

    Hi Cris,

     

    We have shanghaied the original posting bt Ted Bier as Matt has the same problem as the original poster. Several posts ago we established that we have 3 levels of Positive DC voltage available depending on the setting of the front function switch. We have voltage to the LM 741 ICs that appears to be proper. At this point it seems that the output of the Op Amp is not being applied to the bases of the output transistors. Matt is running tests right now to get us closer to the point of failure. If you have time, go back to the point in this thread where Matt first weighs in and check out our progress to this point. If you have some insights it will be appreciated.

     

    John

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  • mpulliam
    0 mpulliam over 5 years ago in reply to jw0752

    I wanted to thank you for your patience and thoughtful explanations!   I really appreciate it!! 

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